Jec racing links and trailing arms

[Jboucher]

Can anyone help me locate a picture that was posted here a while ago.

It was a set of trailing arms and links from JEC Racing. The links were drilled and looked awesome.
I think it was from Durok but i can't remember.

I would like to have the same set but in wraith lenght to shorten the bomber's rear end.

Thx

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[Alexander_0_1]

https://supershafty.com/products/all...i-score-bomber

[Jboucher]

Yeah this is the vendors site.
Im looking for a user picture which included the trailing arms as well as the front and Rear Links from JEC Racing.
They were all stainless with drilled holes for the thicker upper arms.

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[Jboucher]

Found it !!
It is from Durok and they look BAD ASS!

Now to get a quote for wraith lenght.

[momotaro]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Found it !!
It is from Durok and they look BAD ASS!

Now to get a quote for wraith lenght.

Really nice quality parts. I ordered the Yeti/RR10 length in 7075 aluminum. His work is impressive.

Not to mention he's a really cool guy to deal with.

[Jboucher]

Why not stainless?
Too heavy?

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[JatoTheRipper]

How much did he sock you for the custom Wraith set?

[Jboucher]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

How much did he sock you for the custom Wraith set?

Still waiting on my quote from JEC.
It's his son's graduation so He's busy

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[momotaro]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

Why not stainless?
Too heavy?

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Mostly for weight. At the time, I ordered 2 sets. One for the RR10 and one for my Yeti SCORE. Figured the SCORE would be better off with the aluminum anyway.

I figured I will eventually add some metal tubes or metal axles on the RR10 so it'll probably offset it a bit. But now I'm going twin hammers length. I bought the stock plastic to see if I like it. Then of course, I'll order the JEC replacements when the time comes.

[durok]

I went stainless for all the links (in the picture - good find, Jboucher!) because they are for a Bomber that's possibly going to be one of the heaviest Bombers still using the factory plastic cage ever built....

Every body panel seems like it's from a different vendor, all aluminum - including CarterFab full sides (with the sections behind the side windows reaching up to the roof) & inner fenders, a DMG roof with steel lightbar guard, AMF hood & rear panel, and a WertyMade electronics plate. Also front & rear Gearhead lightbars.

(Oh, and a AMF SS skid protector)

SSD aluminum Diamond axle housings front & (centered) rear & HD knuckles, MIP shafts, Robinson Gen3 steel spur, Hot Racing aluminum skid & transmission cases & motor mount & upper rear shock mounts & lower link mounts, Vanquish C-Hubs & servo mount, Incision VDI universals, GMade XD 103mm Diaphragm shocks with hard springs, Hot Racing limiting straps.

Powered by CC Mamba Monster X ESC w/ HH PP 540-L "R"-type 4100kv motor & HH SHV500 servo. 3S by SMC batteries.

With so much weight up in the body, I figured add even more down low in the links - that 4100kv "Big-Block" motor should have no probs moving it around.

It's going to be a PIG......................................

I might be doubling up the rear shocks with some internally-sprung Hot Racing shocks, dunno yet...

[Jboucher]

I just got the quote:
wraith length kit.
Stainless
Trailing arm's $56
Front lower high clearance (no holes) $32
Upper front and back links $30
$15 shipped Canada

Just need to decide between stainless and high grade aluminium...

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[Jboucher]

What do you guys think for a trailing / light rock crawl bomber?
Stainless vs Aluminium?

Would the weight of the stainless set actually be too much for my 550 21T?

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[JatoTheRipper]

$133 for that link kit?

Go with stainless. Aluminum won't last as long and won't be as durable. If the little bit of extra weight stresses your motor than something else is wrong.

[Jboucher]

It's pricey but it includes trailing arms and links.

The incision links are 50$, i like the jec design with frenched rod ends on the beefy front lowers.

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[JatoTheRipper]

I agree that nobody does trailing arms like JEC.

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Go with stainless. Aluminum won't last as long and won't be as durable. If the little bit of extra weight stresses your motor than something else is wrong.

Jec uses 7075 so it will last and slide good. His aluminum parts are usually cheaper then stainless.

And the reason there expensive is its just him and his son. Not a huge fab shop busting out tons of parts.

[Jboucher]

Yeah 7075 would last but i know weight down low is also good so i'm torn...

Money is not the issue here.

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[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Jec uses 7075 so it will last and slide good. His aluminum parts are usually cheaper then stainless.

And the reason there expensive is its just him and his son. Not a huge fab shop busting out tons of parts.

I'll still take stainless over 7075.

[svt923]

Why not stainless on the lowers and aluminum on the uppers?

[momotaro]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

It's pricey but it includes trailing arms and links.

The incision links are 50$, i like the jec design with frenched rod ends on the beefy front lowers.

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I think I paid $45 for the aluminum TA's.

I'm pretty sure his pricing on the stainless were higher before. Maybe he's got his production costs down.

I have the Incision links which are great. But, if I were to do it again, I wouldn't hesitate buying the JEC's.