RR10 for hill climbing

[Belvis]

Hello to all,
I would like to prepare an Axial RR10 Bomber kit for Hill Climbing competitions .... these are the improvements I had in mind to do:
- Vanquish: Stage One (VPS06509) or Hot Racing: Rear Axle Aluminum Adapter (WRA2201), Black Aluminum C-Hubs (AXR1901), Aluminum Dual Shear Steering Knuckle Bomber (RRT2101) or for the front only (behind I would use Hot Racing) SSD : Pro Aluminum C Hubs (SSD00103), HD D60 Knuckles for Bomber (SSD00184) which do you recommend?
- Vanquish AR60 axle servo mount (VPS07970)
- Hot Racing Metal Low Profile AR60 Diff Cover (WRA12CR02) 2 pieces for front and back
- Hot Racing Torsion Sway Bar Set (RRT331X01)
- SSD: 2 Speed ​​Transmission Conversion Kit (SSD00041) or Axial: 2-speed Hi / Lo Transmission conversion kit (AX31181) which do you recommend?
- Hot Racing Steel Helical Diff Ring / Pinion Gear Set Overdrive (SWRA9364) or Hd Spiral Bevel Gear Set (SWRA9433) Does this by underdrive?
- Xtraspeed tubular metal frame (XS-59699) or Integy (OBM-015) or other similar ones on the web
- rear configuration with double shock absorbers
- shocks absorber Proline Pro-Spec 105-110mm (6316-02) or Traxxas Big Bore XXl 100mm (4962) the Traxxas seem to me better as a value for money...
- Combo Castle Creations Sidewinder 4 MTedition (010-0164-07) can be good?
- Blue Bird servo (BLS29A) or (BLS36A) which of the 2?
- BEC Castle Creations 10amp for the servo
I would run it all with 3S batteries ....
what do you think? Are there any useless things or things to add?

[Jboucher]

I would say VP Stage 1, VP servo plate, VP motor mount, Mamba Monster X, puller pro XL, beeftubes, proline powerstroke shocks and aluminium beadlocks wheels.

Start with the kit and you get the metal gears, sway bar and HD diff gears.

Why 2 speed if all you do is full throttle Hill climbs?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Belvis]

so you say that the 2 speed transmission is useless? I thought to use the first gear in the most technical parts of the track and in the pieces where you need more power the fastest gear .... yes my idea is to take the kit (I never took the RTR except in the case of TRX4 ), but the plastic sway bar does not convince me at all ... moreover I forgot to include in the list the MIP SuperShafty Exclusive Driveshafts ... why do you suggest me to change the motor mount? Yes, the beadlock rims will definitely mount them (I still have to decide which ones) .... the power strokes are not the size I need, they are too short or too long (those in stock measure around 105mm) ...

[Jboucher]

I thought the powerstroke slash rear were fine?

Motor mount will flex with high kv motors and bend.

The 2 speed is a matter of personnal taste i guess.
À good brushless motor with a nice throttle curve will be enough. Especially with the Mamba X AUX control for the drag brake

[Belvis]

thanks for the explanation, then I know that I also mount the motor mount ... you're right, they are 102mm so they can fit ... the mamba monster X mounts? (it is not really small ...) with the puller Pro XL I could try the 2100KV, but I would not be too short ... even if, it seems to me, that by regulation with this motorization I can venture to run even at 4S (KV * S <= 10,000)...

[durok]

You could have loads of fun with a regular (smaller) Mamba X and a Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro 4100kv 540-L "R"-type motor, and 3S.

It has better low-end control than the Puller Pro XL-Series motors.

The Mamba X is fine for a Bomber-based build, you don't have to try and shoe-horn in the huge Mamba Monster X ESC.

For the axle and steering components I'd use SSD or Vanquish, your choice - SSD is a bit less expensive while Vanquish has more options.

For the differential gears just stick with Axial HD gears, the kit comes with standard, but you can buy under-drive or over-drive gear-sets from them.

For hill-climbs, maybe leave the front standard and under-drive the rear, the under-drive gear-set provides the strongest mesh of the 3 options.

It would end up being slightly geared-down overall, but the front wheels would still be turning quicker than the rears allowing them to pull the vehicle up the slope.

With a 4100kv motor being geared down overall, it would still be a beast at hill-climbing.

I'm personally not a huge fan of BlueBird servos, but some people have done OK with them.

Also, I'm not a fan of converting the Bomber from the stock plastic cage to an Integy or XtraSpeed metal cage, unless you are looking for a certain style - they are fairly heavy and prone to damage because the welds aren't very high quality.

Not that big of a deal, if you are wanting to make it look more like a real "rock-bouncer" style of hill-climb rig, and don't mind possibly having to do your own metal cage repairs.

BarnDog Racing, AMF, and CarterFab make really nice aluminum body panels that can make your Bomber stand out in a crowd, likewise you can make your own panels for an even more unique look.

I agree with using beef-tubes (either stainless or brass), the Vanquish servo mount (and Vanquish axle trusses to further strengthen your plastic axle housings), aluminum motor mount, etc.

However you don't list any change to the trailing arms - if you want to put power down, I highly recommend SuperShafty stainless or 7075 aluminum (harder than 6061 alloy) BombProof trailing arms:

https://supershafty.com/collections/...i-score-bomber

https://supershafty.com/collections/...i-score-bomber

And lastly, I'd get Incision stainless steel links for the rest.

[Belvis]

Originally Posted by durok

You could have loads of fun with a regular (smaller) Mamba X and a Holmes Hobbies Puller Pro 4100kv 540-L "R"-type motor, and 3S.

It has better low-end control than the Puller Pro XL-Series motors.

The Mamba X is fine for a Bomber-based build, you don't have to try and shoe-horn in the huge Mamba Monster X ESC.

For the axle and steering components I'd use SSD or Vanquish, your choice - SSD is a bit less expensive while Vanquish has more options.

For the differential gears just stick with Axial HD gears, the kit comes with standard, but you can buy under-drive or over-drive gear-sets from them.

For hill-climbs, maybe leave the front standard and under-drive the rear, the under-drive gear-set provides the strongest mesh of the 3 options.

It would end up being slightly geared-down overall, but the front wheels would still be turning quicker than the rears allowing them to pull the vehicle up the slope.

With a 4100kv motor being geared down overall, it would still be a beast at hill-climbing.

I'm personally not a huge fan of BlueBird servos, but some people have done OK with them.

Also, I'm not a fan of converting the Bomber from the stock plastic cage to an Integy or XtraSpeed metal cage, unless you are looking for a certain style - they are fairly heavy and prone to damage because the welds aren't very high quality.

Not that big of a deal, if you are wanting to make it look more like a real "rock-bouncer" style of hill-climb rig, and don't mind possibly having to do your own metal cage repairs.

BarnDog Racing, AMF, and CarterFab make really nice aluminum body panels that can make your Bomber stand out in a crowd, likewise you can make your own panels for an even more unique look.

I agree with using beef-tubes (either stainless or brass), the Vanquish servo mount (and Vanquish axle trusses to further strengthen your plastic axle housings), aluminum motor mount, etc.

However you don't list any change to the trailing arms - if you want to put power down, I highly recommend SuperShafty stainless or 7075 aluminum (harder than 6061 alloy) BombProof trailing arms:

https://supershafty.com/collections/...i-score-bomber

https://supershafty.com/collections/...i-score-bomber

And lastly, I'd get Incision stainless steel links for the rest.

Unfortunately with that motor I would be out of regulation (4,100 * 3 = 12,300) ... with the Blue Bird servant I feel very well I mount them on almost all of my vehicles ... the metal frame I wanted to mount because I thought it was more robust and have more points, but given what you said I'll keep the original ... as regards the panels those you listed are very beautiful especially those of Carter Fab and Barndog Fab, but the idea is to try to build me in carbon fiber ... certainly I will wear the beeftubes (perhaps in steel make the bridges more resistant even if they weigh a little 'less ...) thanks for the advice on the trailing arms, which are the best of the 2? I saw that the price is identical ... as regards the upper links, as well as the steering bars, in the kit are already all aluminum are not good?

[durok]

Are you racing in a particular class?

Is that what you mean by "out of regulation"?

As far as the training arms go, those in aluminum are lighter, but in stainless the weight is still quite low in the vehicle, and partially unsprung - can be a good thing.

Both are nearly indestructible!

The kit aluminum links could be used for now - just be aware that under heavy abuse they are not very strong - you could wait and see if you have any problems first.

The Axial rod-ends on the links are usually the main problem, and other companies links usually use Traxxas Revo rod-ends, which are very strong and use larger (and stronger) hardware.

[Belvis]

Originally Posted by durok

Are you racing in a particular class?

Is that what you mean by "out of regulation"?

As far as the training arms go, those in aluminum are lighter, but in stainless the weight is still quite low in the vehicle, and partially unsprung - can be a good thing.

Both are nearly indestructible!

The kit aluminum links could be used for now - just be aware that under heavy abuse they are not very strong - you could wait and see if you have any problems first.

The Axial rod-ends on the links are usually the main problem, and other companies links usually use Traxxas Revo rod-ends, which are very strong and use larger (and stronger) hardware.

Yes, this new type of race (at least in Italy) is based on the American rules of rock bouncer SRRS championship... as regards the links if I see that the originals are broken I change them with the Incision ... I have already planned try replacing the Axial rod ends with stronger ones ...

[durok]

So there are rules on motor and battery combinations?

Is that why you could not run 3S and a 4100kv motor?

Because the motor is rated to 60,000rpm and will take 3S with ease.

However the rules are set up, that sounds like a very fun and interesting class of racing you are involved with in Italy.

SRRS racing is fun to watch, I especially like some of the more recent races where the runs lasted much longer because the course was including multiple climbs AND descents linked together...

Perfect example, 2 climbs and descents with setting up for the corners being important (short video):



Here's a link to someone who built up one of the metal cages you are speaking of, his came out quite nicely:

Wraith based Rock Bouncer

[angrchair]

TL DR

You will definitely want the underdrive gears for the rear diff.

I've made it up some pretty mean hills, tall and loose, with my Bomber just on 2s with the 2850kv Castle motor.

As the owner of a 2 speed kit, I don't think you will need the low gear for hill climbs, its so low there is almost no wheel speed. It is great for going slow on rocks though.

Also I don't know what voltage you need to run for your steering servo, but you get a Castle Mamba X ESC, and castle link, you can set the BEC on it up to 8v and wouldn't need an external BEC.

[Belvis]

yes ... if I remember correctly the multiplication between the KV of the motor and the battery cells can not exceed 10,000... for example: 5000KV motor run on 2S battery it's ok (5000*2= 10000), 3300KV motor run on 3S battery it's ok (3300*3= 9900), 4100KV run on 2S battery it's ok but on 3S battery is not legal (4100*3= 12300) for brushed there are no limit... I hope I was clear

[Belvis]

Originally Posted by angrchair

TL DR

You will definitely want the underdrive gears for the rear diff.

I've made it up some pretty mean hills, tall and loose, with my Bomber just on 2s with the 2850kv Castle motor.

As the owner of a 2 speed kit, I don't think you will need the low gear for hill climbs, its so low there is almost no wheel speed. It is great for going slow on rocks though.

thanks for the clarification ... then I will not put the 2 speed transmission ... to do rock crawling I already have a Gmade R1 prepared only for that .... the Bomber will serve only for this type of races ...

[durok]

John Holmes has tested a Holmes Hobbies Revolver 1800kv outrunner on 4S hooked up in a TRX4 with a Castle Creations Sidewinder 4 and it was quite speedy in 2nd gear...

That's always an option, and the motor is relatively inexpensive... about half the cost of the 4100kv Puller Pro.

A TRX-4 is considerably heavier than a Bomber.

[Jboucher]

Only if you can tolerate the hurricane sound of the revolver...

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[Belvis]

Originally Posted by durok

John Holmes has tested a Holmes Hobbies Revolver 1800kv outrunner on 4S hooked up in a TRX4 with a Castle Creations Sidewinder 4 and it was quite speedy in 2nd gear...

That's always an option, and the motor is relatively inexpensive... about half the cost of the 4100kv Puller Pro.

A TRX-4 is considerably heavier than a Bomber.

are you sure that ESC used the Sidewinder 4? Because from the specifications on the site Castle is written that holds only up to 3S ... otherwise what do you think of the TrailMaster?

[durok]

He was testing various ESC with the Revolver, I know he had a 4S in there for some of the testing, perhaps not during the SideWinder 4 test.

My apologies.

The Holmes Hobbies TrailMaster brushless ESC is an excellent speed controller with a few special options that Holmes added - one of them being adjustable switching frequency for silent operation.

[Belvis]

Originally Posted by durok

He was testing various ESC with the Revolver, I know he had a 4S in there for some of the testing, perhaps not during the SideWinder 4 test.

My apologies.

The Holmes Hobbies TrailMaster brushless ESC is an excellent speed controller with a few special options that Holmes added - one of them being adjustable switching frequency for silent operation.

no no, I explained myself badly I meant the brushless motor TrailMaster Pro ... as for the ESC I would like to try the new Sidewinder 4 also because I think a brushless sensored ESC for that use it would be wasted... and also who tried it said to be enthusiastic...

[durok]

The Trailmaster Pro is still sensored...

The TrailMaster Pro is a 540 two pole sensored brushless motor, and the Puller Pro is a four pole sensored brushless.

[Belvis]

I was referring to the ESC that I could take it without sensors ... also because now all the good motors have the predisposition for the sensors... (Holmes Hobbies, Tekin, Castle, and Hobbywing)