Voodoobrew's MoA Bomber

[Voodoobrew]

So I've had this thing for about a year and never intended on doing that much to it so I never made a build thread. But I think enough has been done to warrant one. Also this is my first RC in 20 years when I had a RC10.

I bought this because I like the stock looks, wide axles and 2.2 tires. But I had always intended for it to be a slow crawler. Shortly after buying it I also realized I wanted to put my own driver in it (soon hopefully.)

Current Picture:


Upgrade List (in chronological order more details may be posted later in comments):
#00: 2s and 3s mostly 3s onyx 5000mah batteries
#01: replaced broken stock servo w/ Arrma steering servo.
#02: added Wheel wights.
#03: added Robinson Racing 9t pinion.
#04: added power cut off plug.
#05: added 68t metal spur.
#06: removed 68t metal spur.
#07: added Hot Racing 2 speed transmission.
#08: added axial front universal axles.
#09: added underdrive for rear axle
#10: added vanquish steering knuckles.
#10: added steel stearing arms.
#10: replaced broken Arrma steering servo w/ Holmes Hobbies BLS SHV500.
#11: added MyTrickRC Dragon light kit.
#12: added homemade links 3/8in.
#12: relocated rear shocks to rear axle.
#12: added 3d printed stuff box.
#13: added metal beadlocks from china.
#13: added moar weight to front wheels.
#14: added castle sidewinder 3 esc.
#15: added holmes hobbies 27t 550 motor.
#16: added 2.2 hyrax tires.
#16: installed bealdock chainquish wheels fronts have wider spacers then rear.
#17: removed spare tire.
#18: replaced bent 3/8in links with home made 1/4in homemade links.
#19: relocated rear suspension back to stock trailing arms.
#19: added Bully 2 Competition Crawler axles 15t 48p pinion (MoA.)
#19: added second castle sidewinder 3.
#19: added dual gool racing 35t motors.
#19: replaced radio to Spektrum DX5C.
#19: changed to 9t 48p pinions.
#20: upgraded 3d printed stuff tray to v2.
#21: added 3d printed doors.
#22: replaced radio to Spektrum DX5R.
#23: added 3d printed hood.
#24: Did a tummy tuck, removing the two bottom rails to move the skid up.
#25: Removed Stock interior
#25: Installed Wraith Interior
#25: Installed 3d Printed Dash
#25: Installed 3d Printed seats
#25: Installed driver
#26: Installed dual Hobywing WP 1080 ESCs

[Voodoobrew]

Early upgrades were all about getting the speed down for more controlled crawling.
Pinion: I had no issues with the 9t pinion, it wasn't exceptionally loud.
Spur: The 68t metal spur was loud and rubbed on the cover, It may have fit with no cover, but way to loud.
Hot Racing 2 speed transmission: This thing was an awesome deal, I never installed a servo for it, and rarely ever put it in second gear. But it slowed things down in half.
I ran the plastic drivelines for a year and had no breaks.
This setup crawled exceptionally slow on the 35t stock motor for about a year, and never broke anything. The clutch was tightened and slipped maybe twice that I noticed.
I have driven a real 4x4 for years and perhaps thats why I didn't break anything in the drivetrain, because I didn't throttle into the binds.
crawling up to a 70° sharp incline would not slow this thing down much at 10% throttle.

After a year or so I threw the 550 Holmes hobby motor in because I... well I don't have a good reason other then more power is more awesome!

[Voodoobrew]

Second batch of upgrades was to decrease the turn radius.
I don't know for sure if the knuckles made a big difference but changing out the rear diff to under-drive and the front axles to universals made a big difference.
Still this long wheelbase turns like a pig in the rocks...(the kind of pig that dosen't turn well...)

[Voodoobrew]

Putting weight in the front tires is a damn effective way to hold the nose down on a climb. I never bought sway bar, instead I stiffened up the rear suspension by moving it to the rear axle. However don't do as I did, get yourself a damn sway bar!
Adding all that weight takes a hefty servo, and this Holmes Hobbies servo is pretty tough. I have 4 stripes of 5g weights going around these wheels and they are heavy. So I think some of the falls I have taken would have broken damn near any servo, and in 8 months I have rebuilt this servo twice at only $15 a pop.

Before you rant about rotational weight being bad, I will remind you this car can drive no faster then I can walk, and even then 95% of the driving is done at 20% throttle or less. After a year I only had a 10° twist in the plastic rear driveline and nothing notable in the front.

[Voodoobrew]

The swap to Moa.
This cost me around 600$ and I love it. It is slightly faster then before, but I can swap out these Gool 35t motors with Hackamoto 55t motors and it will be even slower then before. I had to change the radio to a Spektrum DX5C get rear dig, and haven't figured out how to get a front dig with it yet. But it was cheap at $130.
This setup lowered the center of gravity, gave me rear dig, and gives me room inside the cockpit for a full interior.
On the downside, on some climbs I notice more torque is placed on the rear axle. Since they are not locked in with the front this effectively stalls the rear motor and I need to increase the trim on that ch for the climb. Perhaps the added torque of the 55t motor will reduce this, but I haven't tried yet.

[Voodoobrew]

3d printed parts.


Doors: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2901135

Stuff Box: This sits between the rear shocks for holding scale accessories like milk crates and water/fuel jugs.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2301295



Bomber Hood: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3001954

[Voodoobrew]

All the leftover parts.
Except for the transmission which I traded for an ax10 SSD tranny, it all went into this 3d printed chassis design.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2942759

So now I have two cars for the price of...four

[Voodoobrew]

I will put more pictures here.
........ ........
#3 is my cutoff switch/fire extinguisher

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[Voodoobrew]

I upgraded the radio to the Spektrum DX5R, and I like it! Compared to the DX5C, the DX5R it is easier to setup the MoA dual esc functions, better for adjusting front vs rear overdrive, and now I have front and rear dig.

Oh and I added a sweet new 3d printed hood. I have been working on it for a while and finally I found a way to print and mount it! (honestly I think it looks a bit weird. not like the Toyota Baja fenders I was picturing when I made these, there like little maxi pad wings ).

[Voodoobrew]

Last week I did a tummy tuck, not shure how much it helped crawling.

I also bought some springs from the local hardware store to put inside the shocks. The front shocks are full droop, and the rear shocks have both internal and external springs.

Today I finally got around to installing an interior. It's not finshed but it's progress.

Used a wraith interior tub, 3d printed seats from thingyverse, my own 3d printed dash, and a John Scena action figure.

The electronics are all hidden under the wraith tub. I also changed from the sidewinder 3's to hobbywing 1080 to quiet down the motors more.

[Voodoobrew]

I put some paint on this thing.

[bdt00buckshot]

Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your prints on Thingiverse !!!! I'm looking forward to building my RR10 with your dash!

[Voodoobrew]

You are welcome.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[JatoTheRipper]

I like your Upgrade List idea! I may have to steal that for my build threads if I remember. It's so handy to see all the changes you've made and whether or not they were good. Brilliant idea!

[Voodoobrew]

That was the idea, a simple organized time-line.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Old-N-Grey]

Amazing what you and some of the other guys can do. Thanks for your help

[Hal]

MOA is a great mod. In Comp MOA most guys use a system with 2 speed controls. On your radio I am not sure how to mix them. We can actually shut of either end so front dig, or rear burn is very simple. I use a Sanwa MT4, which is what most of the guys use. They are a great radio but not made any more. If you are lucky you might find a used one. The best part of this radio is,it has a lever by your left thumb to controll the dig. It is fully proportional in that you can run any amount of dig needed front or rear. I wouldn't be surprised if you can mix with your radio but would check with other people who have that radio. Utube is also a great place for things like that. That is where I found out how to do my MT4. Good build ideas and nice truck

[Voodoobrew]

I got a dx5 pro a while back and it does front and rear dig. It has been working great for me. No lever though. It has a dial but I can't figure it out so I use buttons and the switch.

Handy gearing spreadsheet

[jpterbl1]

Originally Posted by Voodoobrew

I got a dx5 pro a while back and it does front and rear dig. It has been working great for me. No lever though. It has a dial but I can't figure it out so I use buttons and the switch.

Handy gearing spreadsheet

I just got a DX5 Pro and have it setup as as moa on my rig as well. The only thing I don't like is that I can only choose the switch "I" for my dig. Were you able to choose a different switch? How did you set your dig up? Switch "I" is fairly inconvenient for a dig switch.

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[Voodoobrew]

I never tried to use anything but "I" to be honest. But I assume you could use driver modes and set it to any switch you like changing the rates that way.