Ascender/SCX10 to Bomber???

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Castle has an app? Or do you mean you program wirelessly with the Bluetooth adapter?

Look for "esc link" in the google play store. Works cherry. I have the hotwire 2.0 app as well so no PC needed for anything but adjusting becs.

[Browneye]

Thanks guys - you dabomb (er).

Read thru a couple’a Bomber motor threads - guys are all over the place on them.
Amazon and ebay have some blue-can sensored motors for $40. But one bad bearing and the $ saved goes out the window.

Is a 2700kv not fast enough? Motor up gear down?

[WHITE-TRASH]

2700 is a nice motor for crawling & trailing but not much for go fast duty. It will scoot on 4s though.

"Volt up, gear down" is a solid motto.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by soze

It's almost as if they cross their fingers and hope the user forgets about it.

That's kinda what it seems like. "We'll give it away for free if they catch the coupon. Better than having to pay for the packaging and shipping of a slightly larger box."

Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH

Look for "esc link" in the google play store. Works cherry. I have the hotwire 2.0 app as well so no PC needed for anything but adjusting becs.

Thanks. It's been probably a year since I touched Castle Link. If I remember correctly that won't plug right into my phone so I assume you just have a USB step up adapter, right?

Originally Posted by Browneye

Thanks guys - you dabomb (er).

Read thru a couple’a Bomber motor threads - guys are all over the place on them.
Amazon and ebay have some blue-can sensored motors for $40. But one bad bearing and the $ saved goes out the window.

Is a 2700kv not fast enough? Motor up gear down?

How many S's are you going to run? 2700kv is not fast enough on 2S or 3S IMO if you want something more than trail speed. I have the 3100kv ROC412 and 3300kv HH Puller Pro. I prefer the 3100kv for trails, but the 3300kv is more fun trolling around my back yard and jumping. I run on 2S or 3S though.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Thanks. It's been probably a year since I touched Castle Link. If I remember correctly that won't plug right into my phone so I assume you just have a USB step up adapter, right?

This came with my s8 but they're available most anywhere.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Samsung-Galax...716da5fffd442e

[Browneye]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

How many S's are you going to run? 2700kv is not fast enough on 2S or 3S IMO if you want something more than trail speed. I have the 3100kv ROC412 and 3300kv HH Puller Pro. I prefer the 3100kv for trails, but the 3300kv is more fun trolling around my back yard and jumping. I run on 2S or 3S though.

3S - I have several hi-cap lipo packs already. HH said 3300 too. I just thought if it was TOO fast then I'd be unhappy. Could always gear it down a bit.



Okay then...I'm almost there.



I decided that outrunner motor was too cool and didn't want to pass it up if it was the shiznit.



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In shopping out there for brushless motors I kept finding them sold by the number of turns instead of KV - anyone know why? Then I found a conversion chart showing 10.5 = about 3300 and 13.5 about 2700. It's just confusing. Maybe an old way of measuring them?



Then all the 'Roar' compliant - is that some kind of racing class? Must be limited to 2S as they're almost all rated for 7.4v max input.



Once I get it built and running then I'll have a way better idea of what means what for gearing and motor speed. Till then it's like shooting in the dark.



Kit should be in tomorrow.
Any other must-haves while I'm shopping for parts? Seems like the kit has metal links and arms vs plastic on the RTR. What else should I be looking for?

[WHITE-TRASH]

No such thing as too fast. Don't like going fast then don't pull the trigger that far.

Bomber must haves? For ultimate durability VP trailing arms and titanium links are never a bad idea. The trailing arms are very durable and don't use plastic rod ends that are failure prone. The titanium links are expensive but you will never have to worry about them again. The incision stainless links are attractive but the threads are prone to bending and breaking. Plus they're heavy.

[soze]

Originally Posted by Browneye

In shopping out there for brushless motors I kept finding them sold by the number of turns instead of KV - anyone know why? Then I found a conversion chart showing 10.5 = about 3300 and 13.5 about 2700. It's just confusing. Maybe an old way of measuring them?



Then all the 'Roar' compliant - is that some kind of racing class? Must be limited to 2S as they're almost all rated for 7.4v max input.

The usage of the term turns is mostly still used for the racing classes for buggies, touring cars, etc.

They'll say this class can only run 17.5T motors... mod class can run 13.5T motors, etc.

ROAR compliance is for the racing that is governed by ROAR rules. The electronics/batteries need to comply with their rules.

[Stray]

Brushless motors have so many variations.

For the crawler style or application i recommend getting a motor with 4 poles, and one that is sensored(if you have a sensored esc). Castle and Tekin have great options. you will find most 36size(540) sensored motors are 2 pole. this is fine for racing touring cars and other more speed focused cars. I have used both, and I believe that the 4 pole motor has much more torque, and is also must smoother at low rpm.
If you are going to have an ESC that is not sensored like the Castle SW4, i would recommend a tenshock 6pole motor from RCmart, i have one and its baller, also is only 45bucks AUD which is CHEAP

[Browneye]

RPP had a 10% off October special - and HH product in stock. A no-brainer - LOL
TrailmasterProBL in 3300kv and HH500V2 servo on the way.

I also ordered a 'long panel' body set from Barndog.

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by Browneye

Any other must-haves while I'm shopping for parts? Seems like the kit has metal links and arms vs plastic on the RTR. What else should I be looking for?

Probably already stated, but your plastic tie rod ends will suffer immediately, especially under the power you're installing. Revo ends surviving well in mine.

Also, stock plastic wheels are supposedly notorious for rounding out the hexes quickly. Consider aluminum upgrade on the near horizon.

Originally Posted by Browneye

RPP had a 10% off October special - and HH product in stock. A no-brainer - LOL

You have chosen well, young padawan. The force will be strong in this one.

[Browneye]

These??

[WHITE-TRASH]

If the kit links have 4mm threads, then yes those are what you want.

[durok]

I used a mix of Revo and Jato rod ends to get my geometry just right with my somewhat confused JEC Racing stainless links...

A couple bags of each will serve you well in your toolbox.

Alternatively, RPM rod-ends are also excellent.

My LHS only had colored ones in stock.... (bleargh!)

[2mtech]

Originally Posted by Browneye

These??

That's the part # I used, yes. I ordered four bags. Now I've got a lotta balls ;)

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[2mtech]

Here ya go, Chris. Nothing fancy, just gives you an idea of what to expect from your Bomber venture.

[Browneye]

HOOLLLEEEEEYYYY.

Picked up the kit - axles and links are done. The revo balls were the ticket, and used the straight ends where I could. It's BEEFY.

[Browneye]

USPS delivers on Sundays now?

Got my HH motor and servo. Good to go getting this one built.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Browneye

USPS delivers on Sundays now?

Got my HH motor and servo. Good to go getting this one built.

Not that I know of...

[WHITE-TRASH]

USPS has a contract with amazon for Sunday delivery.