RR-10 Rear Upper Link Question/Problem

[BomberRob007]

Hey everyone,


First post here on the forum, and I recently finished my RR-10 Bomber!



I had some problems with the stock body panels, so I made some new ones! I also moved the spare tire up over the gas tank, mounted a ProLine 4" light bar, and mounted two tail lights in the rear tow-plate.








I ran it a couple times with no issues, and a fellow RC enthusiast pointed out that my rear differential wasn't pointing/facing the correct direction. It seemed that the differential was indeed pointing down, instead of straight, or even angled up slightly.






I looked at the manual, made sure I had everything in the correct place, which I did, so I looked at how to 'push' the pumpkin/differential back up a little bit. The solution seemed to be easy, and it came via extending each end of the rear-upper-link bars.







I drove it around the house a bit and it did fine like that. I took it out on Sunday to a local trail, and the rear-upper-links gave out in the first couple minutes of driving over rough terrain. They basically came apart where the set screw goes into the link and/or the rod-ends.


Is there a better solution for this problem, such as longer/better rear-upper-link bars, or am I missing or overlooking something else or a different/easier solution?


I'd appreciate any feedback you have!

[Jboucher]

The angle you have with the rod ends fully screwed in is normal.
Sure it can be improved but the stock angle won't harm anything.

I have been running mine all year stock angle and it's still in perfect shape.

If you insist on correcting it, you can buy JEC Racing or supershafty trailing arms. They are a couple of mm shorter than stock and help to correct the angle.

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[MAC FAB]

Sorry to get off topic, but I'm seeing taller side panels than stock, catching my aluminum body eye. Side shot pic?

Out of curiousity, are the rear end front link mounts the same on a Bomber as the Yeti? If you have the ability to make new ones, you can change the radius/lengths of the upper which alters your pinion angle as it cycles the arc. Scratch build TT guys have done this to minimize the angle.

[BomberRob007]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

The angle you have with the rod ends fully screwed in is normal.
Sure it can be improved but the stock angle won't harm anything.

I have been running mine all year stock angle and it's still in perfect shape.

If you insist on correcting it, you can buy JEC Racing or supershafty trailing arms. They are a couple of mm shorter than stock and help to correct the angle.

@jboucher, thanks for the info, and glad to know the stock angle doesn't hurt it. I am still a bit interested in changing the angle though. I would actually need slightly longer links though, not shorter. Longer links would rotate the differential back.


Any idea who makes longer links?

[Jboucher]

Longer upper links or shorter trailing arms is the same result.

JEC Racing and many other vendors make both but upgraded trailing arms have many other benefits like weight and durability.

The kit links are aluminum and work fine. The kit trailing arms are plastic sandwiched in 2 aluminium plates. They will still bend and twist.

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[Steve g]

Originally Posted by BomberRob007

@jboucher, thanks for the info, and glad to know the stock angle doesn't hurt it. I am still a bit interested in changing the angle though. I would actually need slightly longer links though, not shorter. Longer links would rotate the differential back.


Any idea who makes longer links?

He means shorter lower links (trailing arms). Will do the same as longer uppers. It drove me nuts having my pinion angles off on my wraith. It wouldn't be a bad idea to learn to make your own links out of 8-32 all thread with revo rod ends. Cover the links with brake line. Check YouTube for how-tos.It's the cheapest easiest way to make some. Then once you learn to do it, you'll be making new ones just to try out different wheelbases(at least I did).
Little edit, was typing this when jboucher responded

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[BomberRob007]

@ MAC FAB - Yes, they are taller, and extend further forward, and below the lower side rails.
The roof panel hangs over the side rails as well. This was the first time I've ever done something like this, so they aren't pretty. They were the first draft, and I messed up the (aluminum) hood (hence I'm still running the factory hood).

[MAC FAB]

Cool, out of the norm. Tall sides rock! (Pun intended) Lower rocker part will take a real beating, so be prepared for that. Mine has the floor pan going up the rocker, which actually saves the sides from rocks.

[Jim85IROC]

A quick and easy way to make those upper links longer and stronger is to replace the Axial rod ends with Traxxas Jato rod ends (TRX5525). The Jato rod ends are longer than the Axial ends. You can cut them down a little bit to fine tune the length too.

[elRayRay]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

A quick and easy way to make those upper links longer and stronger is to replace the Axial rod ends with Traxxas Jato rod ends (TRX5525). The Jato rod ends are longer than the Axial ends. You can cut them down a little bit to fine tune the length too.

This would be my suggestion, as well. Super cheap fix for that pinion angle.

[NitroBugg]

I also agree on the Jato rod ends. They work great.