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Thread: Sticking to Brushed is the Bomb?

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Old 04-16-2022, 03:23 PM   #1
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Default Sticking to Brushed is the Bomb?

If you wanted to keep the Bomber setup as a Brushed rig, given HW 1080WP, and a HH motor..... Which or what would you use for a Bomber that you wanted to keep brushed, but still able to keep a decent low wheel speed, while still pushing around 15 or 20 mph...


Been a long time since I dealt with a brushed setup and thinking I want to try to keep the bomber brushed if possible.

Thinking the ISDN ESC or the HW 1080WP, but a high end ESC isn't out of the mix. That said, I'm considering another Tekin RX4 as it can do both Brushed and Brushless motors. However the On the Fly switch between Racer and Crawler mode on a Castle Mamba X would be very suitable, but does the X have the capability of running a brushed motor? Or are they Brushless only ESCs?

Copperhead maybe? though I've read of some issues with them.

So with the what esc option fully asked,
which brushed Motor?

As I noted above, I'd like to be able to keep a good low wheel speed for crawling as/when needed, but its a Bomber, not a walker, lol so I'm thinking at least a 20t, maybe even lower turn.


Obviously many will say HH. So let the options fly on what HH motor you would go with to achieve the performance I'm seeking.

But what about the Tekin 5 Slot Cralwer motors? I see some low turn options there also.

Light me up. What esc and motor options would you go with?

I am leaning toward an ESC that can do brushed and brushless if I just don't like the brushed option at the end of the day, but the 1080wp or ISDN options are cheap so that's a given, and they'll always fit in some other rig. lol

Options options options. Too Damn Many Options. lol

Last edited by Timmahh; 04-17-2022 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 04-16-2022, 03:35 PM   #2
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Default Re: Sticking to Brushed is the Bomb?

Interesting thought, I’m curious as well.

I can add that the castle micro x, mamba x, and I believe the copperhead are all compatible either brushed or brushless. In fact, even the sidewinder 4 (is that even still around?) can run brushed, so that’s an option as well.

Personally I would probably lean towards an esc that will handle up to 4s to give you more flexibility/speed.

I have a used bomber in pieces I may put together as an extra rig, I considered running the stock Esc or a 1080 with a Crawlmaster sport 8t just to see how it goes. Anything has to be better than the stock 35t…


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Old 04-16-2022, 04:53 PM   #3
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Default Re: Sticking to Brushed is the Bomb?

Here's my experience. My one bomber has stock esc yes garbage but still works and a 12t 550 motor and 2 speed trans. Granted your not supposed to run this combo on 3s but I still do occasionally. 3s and 12t is wicked fast especially in second gear (probably closeer to 30mph). This setup could give my stock rtr Ryft a run for its money on 2s at least.



With a better esc it would probably still crawl pretty well. The HW1080 is a good cheap choice for sure and crawls super well with the HH Crawlmaster sports run this in multiple other rigs. Problem comes with the HH CMS 8t is significantly lower kv rating than the 12t 3 slot. The other issue is that even the HW1080 isnt supposed to be run on 3s with that low a turn motor works fine with the HH CMS 8t that's the lowest limit it can safely run.



You could probably do the 2-speed trans option and the HW1080 and the HH CMS 8t and get very close too 20mph pretty sure 15 mph is no problem with the 2-speed. Single speed with the right pinion probably push 15+ now how much heat that will create no clue. HH website recommends running 11t pinion to keep heat under control.



For the speeds that it sounds like your wanting (20mph) you need to find a brushed esc that can run 12t on 3s or go brushless.

Last edited by SCX10 JK; 04-16-2022 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 04-16-2022, 10:54 PM   #4
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Default Sticking to Brushed is the Bomb?

I’ve got a HW1080 paired up with a 5 slot HH CrawlMaster Pro 10T 550 can. The low speed control is incredible and a very decent top speed as well, especially when running a 3S LiHV pack. I’ve raced it in several Ultra 5K’s and it’s performed extremely well.

There is a bit more maintenance involved with checking the brushes and keeping them clean. I’ve hung a brush a couple times in really dusty environments, but that was easily remedied by popping the springs and reseating them.

Honestly a blast of MooKlean on the brushes before a run prob would have been all that was needed for preventative maintenance aside from occasionally ensuring they are not worn down to the point of needing a new set.

The TorqueMaster Expert and TorqueMaster Pro, both in the 550 can size and 21T versions would be excellent choices as well.

-Davis


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Last edited by Davey; 04-17-2022 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:12 AM   #5
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Default Re: Sticking to Brushed is the Bomb?

I would swap in a wraith skid and a 3 gear trans. Run a 1080 and the reedy 550 16t 5slot. I like the Reedy motor more than the Holmes.
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Old 04-20-2022, 10:11 PM   #6
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Default Re: Sticking to Brushed is the Bomb?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dusty husky View Post
I would swap in a wraith skid and a 3 gear trans. Run a 1080 and the reedy 550 16t 5slot. I like the Reedy motor more than the Holmes.

Does a wraith skid drop right in?


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Old 04-20-2022, 10:29 PM   #7
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Default Re: Sticking to Brushed is the Bomb?

Quote:
Originally Posted by twade984 View Post
Does a wraith skid drop right in?


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Here's one of the best Bomber build threads with a Wraith skid:

Levior* - Becher's Bomber Build

Last edited by durok; 04-21-2022 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 04-21-2022, 01:11 AM   #8
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Default Re: Sticking to Brushed is the Bomb?

Quote:
Originally Posted by twade984 View Post
Does a wraith skid drop right in?


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Yes and no. The skids interchange between the Wraith and Bomber as far as bolting into the chassis, but your link geometry and radio box mount (ala bomber skid) won't be the same. If you want a 3 gear trans with dual triangulated 4 link (like the wraith) on a bomber, swap on a stock wraith skid and be done. If you want to keep the trailing arm setup you're probably best off with one of the many 3d printed skids that combine the 2. I used one from Supershafty https://supershafty.com/products/bom...3cd550e9&_ss=r (I'm pretty sure it was actually made by Spare Time Hobbies?) and then made my own front electronics plate out of 2mm carbon fiber.

Looks like you can buy it here:

https://keycityhobby.com/products/bo...40048105390253
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