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Thread: How-to make your own Bump-steer bar:

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Old 03-13-2009, 10:47 PM   #1
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Default How-to make your own Bump-steer bar:

HOW-TO MAKE YOUR OWN BUMP-STEER BAR (AKA: Panhard bar):
Continued from: How-to relocate your steering servo//
By: SwampDawg
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...27#post1679027

1. First start by cutting the long set-screw AXA#186 in half, then setting it into the axle (as shown below). It will need to be set low enough for the plastic servo-mount (off of radio-box parts tree AXA#80028 later shown).


2. Drill a hole for a 3mm machine screw through the plastic servo-mount, then install it into the axle (as shown below).


3. For this step, youll need to make a custom turnbuckle (which ill get to later on as this is still under construction). You will screw one end of this turnbuckle into the servo-mount (shown below), then the other to the Steel C-frame later on.

Last edited by SwampDawg; 03-15-2009 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:06 PM   #2
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Again, great idea! Did you have a brainstorming session today about the SCX10?

Thanks man for this.
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:10 PM   #3
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ive been thinkin about this bump-steer bar all night and day since i built the custom servo-relocation to the C-frame. This is what i brain stormed at work today and its working rather well. The next segment will need a custom bracket cut/made to mount the other end of the bar to the C-frame, which will be located right under the Left-rear shock mount. This will clear the servo and anything else underneath the chassis. Key here is to fine tune the bar so it doesnt apply any stress to the axle/chassis, aswell as keeping the bar verticle with the axle.

im working on the bracket as i sit here, but just so you know what im referring too... The bump-steer bar (turnbuckle) needs to be as straight with the axle as can be (shown below).



thanks for the comments guys!

Last edited by SwampDawg; 03-13-2009 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:37 PM   #4
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Template/ Bump-steer bar mount (To C-frame)
*This will mount the bar just under the shock tower on the left side of the truck.

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Old 03-14-2009, 12:05 AM   #5
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SWeet, sweet, sweet, can't wait to see what ya come up with.
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Old 03-14-2009, 12:07 AM   #6
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After cutting out the template onto galvanized steel, it should like similar to this. Punch the holes needed for the mounting of the screw and to the chassis.


Now you will need to fold a few areas over at the points shown below so it looks like this.


After you have the metal bent over, install it onto the C-frame as shown below. Make sure the custom mount sits under the shock tower.

SEE REVISON ~ PAGE II

bring the bump-steer bar to this new bracket (mount) and adjust it, so the hole lines up to the hole in the mount. Install a 3mm screw and back it off with a nut and your done.


FIN

Last edited by SwampDawg; 03-14-2009 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 03-14-2009, 01:39 AM   #7
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see revision page ii

Last edited by SwampDawg; 03-14-2009 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:15 AM   #8
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I thought they were called panhard bar
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Old 03-14-2009, 03:57 AM   #9
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Panhard is correct
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:10 AM   #10
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Why are you adding this and keeping the 4-link? What's the benefit?
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:26 AM   #11
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If you have triangulation in the links then you dont need this bar right? I think the reason you may have bump steer is because the angle of the steering tie rod is too steep. When you compress the suspension the tie rod will get longer because of the angle you have it at which is bump steer. If you were to slacken the angle by tipping the servo forward or adding spacers to the steering knuckle under the tie rod, the effect would be less.

The pic below shows a slacker angle of steering rod and I have no bump steer.



Unless you have none or not enough triangulation, You wont need the panhard bar.

Last edited by littleskull99; 03-14-2009 at 05:01 AM.
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:06 AM   #12
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to littleskull99's point a panhard rod aka track bar is used with parallel 4-link suspension. A triangulated 4-link or 3-link setup typically does not require a panhard as its purpose is to stop the axle from tracking left and right and also to allow the axle to swing an arc along the same path as the steering drag link. Adding a panhard to a trianglulated 4-link or a 3-link setup will cause binding and limit articulation.
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:14 AM   #13
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regardless if it is needed or not...
in this case, there is no limitation on articulation. It remains unchanged and gives full movement. And if it isnt needed, then i guess i just looks cool! lol
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
500swmag

to littleskull99's point a panhard rod aka track bar is used with parallel 4-link suspension. A triangulated 4-link or 3-link setup typically does not require a panhard as its purpose is to stop the axle from tracking left and right and also to allow the axle to swing an arc along the same path as the steering drag link. Adding a panhard to a trianglulated 4-link or a 3-link setup will cause binding and limit articulation.

alright then, this would mean that buying the kit sold on this site is a "Waste" of money then right? lol
* Giveaway - MSD - SCX-10 CMS KIT - Hand Bros Offroad *
These guys use a 3-link set-up and the new panhard (bumpsteer). So all your getting in this kit that is useful is the Servo relocation mod, that ive already made a Tutorial for using ALL stock parts. ahhaha!

oh man, thank gawd i held back and made my own saving money.
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:37 AM   #15
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Not quite, The MSD true three link kit is just that. three links. The top link on the MSD is one single link without triangulation whereas the axial three link is two links tied together at one end with the Y piece. If the MSD kit didnt have the panhard rod then it would tramp side to side. So to answer your question - The MSD kit is not a waste of money.

Matt

Last edited by littleskull99; 03-14-2009 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:52 AM   #16
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x2 ^

MSD makes great stuff and again to littleskull99s point the difference axials upper link is fixed i.e. 3 points of pivot, so in effect the upper link is a swing arm which doesn't allow side to side movement, so again no tracbar required.

But if it works for you go for it.

just doesn't work so well in 1:1,
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:11 AM   #17
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The MSD kit utilizes the correct use of a panhard bar.

Like 500swmag has already said...a panhard is only needed if the links cannot be triangulated enough to keep the axle located under the rig. This is mostly due to low hung oil pans which keeps the upper links from being triangulated at the axle.

When using a panhard, the axle will follow the arc of this bar in relation to the mount on the frame. So, if you push down on the frame in the front...compressing both front shocks, the axle will want to shift to the side opposite the frame mount...and at the same time the frame will want to go the opposite direction. This is why in the 1:1 world of Jeeps (panhard/trackbar on the front stock), when you lift the rig enough and need to refabricate the panhard, it should closely match the angle and length of the drag link for the steering so they follow the same arc....getting rid of the bumpsteer.

With all this said, on a true non-triagulated & panhard installed axle, the axle will shift from one side to the other slightly depending on where it is in the suspension travel. This is why if you use a panhard with a fully triangulated link setup, it will usually bind up since the panhard wants to shift the axle to keep the arc constant...but at the same time the triangulation of the links wants to keep the axle centered under the rig. They would be fighting one another.

Make sense? Hope that wasn't too long

Looking at your setup again....I am willing to bet that the small amount of bind that you have is being soaked up by the frame brackets upper tab since there is no gusseted support for it at the frame and would be very easily bent there. Don't want ya to take this the wrong way....I like seeing guys build their own parts...but just adding some info.

Last edited by Offroader5; 03-14-2009 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:16 AM   #18
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ok then, i wont argue it as i dont know enough about a panhard bar anyhow. So i guess in this case its for looks which imo looks pretty scale.

maybe ill make another tutorial making this a true 3-link set up?

thanks for info.
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:54 AM   #19
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I have yet, done it again!
using all stock parts mainly, i have incorperated a 3-link setup as the MSD kit.


STEP .1.
Remove the entire 4-link set up as shown from the chassis/axle



STEP .2.
Parts needed:
AX30524 jointpost (1) 6x91mm
AX30517 jointpost (1) 6x33mm
AXA186 3x16mm setscrew (1)

You will need to join the joint-posts together using the setscrew in between the two as shown. This will make a 6x124mm bar!!



STEP .3.
Parts needed:
Plastic angled ballend (1)
Plastic straight ballend (1)
Plastic ball (2)

Install an angled ballend and a straight ballend onto each end of the joint-post.



STEP .4.
Install the angled ballend side to the chassis.



STEP .5.
This is where the other straight ballend will come to, the axle!




STEP .6.
Install the straight ballend onto the axle using a 3mm machine screw.




FIN.

Last edited by SwampDawg; 03-14-2009 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 03-14-2009, 11:14 AM   #20
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heres a few shots of the set-up, hope this works properly now with the new panhard bar, etc.






Last edited by SwampDawg; 03-14-2009 at 08:08 PM.
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