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08-14-2009, 02:09 PM
| #41 | ||||
| I wanna be Dave  Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 2,781
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I'm working on video. I shot some myself with a mount on my Tx for a small digi cam but it still sucked, I did'nt want to waste y'alls time with it. I need a second pair of hands to shoot vid for me, I'm trying to enlist my brother... Last edited by Big Mike; 08-14-2009 at 02:23 PM. | ||||
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08-14-2009, 07:02 PM
| #42 | |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: guam
Posts: 118
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 : mrgreen: | |
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08-16-2009, 01:20 PM
| #43 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 2,781
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Newer photos for those interested. I got tired of the cheesy chrome bar that comes with the Pro-Line bumpers, so I made this to replace it:   Some more recent action shots, from a new spot in Hedgesville near the elementary school:      |
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08-16-2009, 01:26 PM
| #44 |
| DOOH!!! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: AZ
Posts: 2,105
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Hot damn! I love that bumper! Turned out great, very nice work.. Are the corner braces just stuck in the bumper or bolted from the bottom? Just noticed the o-rings on the shackles too, I'll have to steal that idea as i have the same ones on mine and i don't like that they are larger then the mount, good idea.. |
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08-17-2009, 07:10 AM
| #45 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 2,781
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No problem steal away. Those are actually some plastic bushings from something, but o-rings would work as well. It looked wrong and I hated the rattling. It's sort of a bee-atch to get assembled but it's worth it... Last edited by Big Mike; 08-17-2009 at 08:19 AM. | |
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08-17-2009, 07:42 AM
| #46 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Do I look like a freaking people person?
Posts: 874
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Nice job on the bumper. It looks a lot better. Looks like you have some nice places to run. |
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08-17-2009, 11:49 AM
| #47 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: KY
Posts: 126
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hey sweet truck i like your snorkle alot want to give us some more detail on it  |
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08-18-2009, 12:09 PM
| #48 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 2,781
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The snorkel is completely home made and was not hard at all. Finding a filter element will be your biggest hurdle by far. Here's the build details cut-and-pasted from another thread. Fram's part # for the filter element is in there: -------------------------------------------------------------- I wanted something custom looking vs. a scale reproduction of a commercially available snorkel, so I pretty much had to make it myself. This was inspired by a couple 1:1 rigs I've seen that had similar hand-built snorkels that ended in standard filter elements. After looking for parts and the right tubing for a couple weeks, I've rounded up a cheap and easy solution. Materials: * Fram fuel filter #CG3388 (I found it at Tractor Supply for $1.50) * length of black appliance cord * length of 4-40 all-thread * silver pinstripe tape Remove the wire from the cord casing, and shove the all-thread inside in it's place. This gives the casing rigidity and it will hold it's shape. Make your bends with a standard tubing bender, and shape the casing to fit your rig. Ream a hole in the body where you want the intake tube to exit. Mine leaves the body out of the cowling right behind the hood on the right side:  Make the bends and route the tubing so it hugs the rack/rollcage/roofline:  And 90 it around the back so the element is out of the way. It sits high in the center as far away from water as possible:  Since these pics I've added thin strips of silver vinyl pinstripe tape at each "joint" (the 90 and the 45, and at the element) to simulate stainless steel clamp bands. If you can find the filter element the rest is easy to round up. It took about 20 minutes to put together... -------------------------------------------------------------- And another pic with the "silicone couplings and hose clamps" in place. Each coupling and clamp is a strip of vinyl pinstripe tape (shiny black for the silicone, silver for the clamps) with a small section of silver wire (solder) CA'ed on top to simulate the screw barrel:  Last edited by Big Mike; 08-18-2009 at 12:17 PM. | |
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08-19-2009, 06:03 AM
| #49 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: guam
Posts: 118
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do you know where the back of the motor where the wires come out do you know why it turns?
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08-19-2009, 07:44 AM
| #50 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Byford WA
Posts: 46
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haha that last shot looks pretty kool, mines cr-01 is to slow for that :P
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08-19-2009, 08:49 AM
| #51 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 2,781
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The aluminum "carriage" that holds the brushes and the end bearing? (what you'd call the rear end bell on a "normal" motor, I suppose it's the same with these) That is NOT supposed to spin, it should be locked inside the black outer can. If you're looking INSIDE that piece (through the "windows" in the black outer can) a lot more of the end of the armature and commutator is exposed on the Cobalt Puller than a "normal" motor (you can't see the armature at all on a normal motor) Yes, that IS supposed to spin. Probably the best advice I can give you is to contact Holmes Hobbies directly if you think there's an issue with it, either PM him from here or email him. Or if you post an inquiry in the electronics forum he'll probably see it and respond. John's customer service is top-drawer, he'll help you out... Last edited by Big Mike; 08-19-2009 at 09:01 AM. | |
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08-23-2009, 05:57 AM
| #52 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: guam
Posts: 118
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ok thanks. when are you going to post up the video of your scx10?
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08-24-2009, 07:08 AM
| #53 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 2,781
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Linear Mode
