BM's SCX10/CGR Blazer
 

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Fire extingusher is by RCC member FodigoDave - incredible detail...

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SCX10 - wheelbase stretched to 12 3/8", RC4WD 90mm scale shocks, Hand Bros. kit, hard-mounted bumpers. Other than that pretty much stock.
Novak Rooster Crawler/Tekin 35t/Hi-Tec 5645MG/7.4v LiPo

Man I love the look of those CGR's! They kinda remind me of the Tamiya Blazin' Blazer. Nice job!

I'm thinking about getting the ramcharger version. But $80, I'll have to wait awhile.

Looks SICK !!!

Where did the driver come from ?

Nice color choice too "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

great lookin rig man!!! "thumbsup"

what links did you use to sterch it

Excellent job on the CGR Blazer, details and color are dead on! "thumbsup"

Thanks. The driver is a WWE wrestling figure named JBL. Toys-R-Us find. These WWE figures seemed to be the best scale for this body (bigger than a new-school G.I. Joe, smaller than a Barbie) and Mr. JBL here was the only one who was'nt bare-chested and had a normal head of hair and a normal expression on his face.
He still looks like he's been gobblin' down the steroids like M&M's, but you can't have everything I guess.

I left the front links stock. I was afraid to disturb the geometry of the Hand Bros. kit, and I also thought it would look better with longer rear links vs. having even link lengths front and rear.
The rear links are home made from 1/4" aluminum rod, drilled/tapped to accept the stock set screws and rod ends. Upper links are 85mm, lowers are 115mm (rod only length - without rod ends added) I forget what I used for the spacer in between the upper link y-mount and the pumpkin, I'm pretty sure it's longer than stock, but due to the design this makes it an easy spot to adjust the clocking of the axle as you build.

Thanks. Yea, the CGR's pushed me over the edge and made me want to build a scale truck. They are a bit steeply priced, but they look really good for lexan. Very heavy and tough lexan too, BTW. The roll cage is plastic, but it seems like a composite type material like a lot of suspension parts are made of, not cheap polystyrene. It should be pretty tough (hopefully) and it's probably as light as it can be w/o compromising strength.

Thanks. I've only used this gold for pinstripes between other colors until now. I had no idea it would look as good as it does. In sunlight it's very gold, in low light it looks almost orange. Testors rattle-can, with the black label that says "dries in minutes", I don't remember what it was called.
The black is just high-heat header paint. I found I was out of black and did'nt want to run to the LHS. It looks fine through the lexan, and seems to be sticking good...



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Where did the rock sliders or come from or are they custom?

The rock sliders are the Pro-Line units:

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Proline-R...0-p-17221.html

Bolted to the chassis w/ the stock hardware that came with them. Pretty simple...

Cool. I didnt know they made them.

I know this is off subject but, I checked out your tattoo work. Nice work. The one with Christ looking out from the from inside the cross, awsome!

That is one nice lookin Blazer...

I do have one question for ya... Are the lengths you gave for your rear upper and lower links measured eye to eye or end to end?

Thanks!

Thanks.
The lengths I gave are for the rod only - no rod ends. I used the stock rod ends and set screws. Eye-to-eye of the lower links is 138mm.
Eye-to-eye on the uppers is sort of impossible to get, since there's only one eye. The cool thing about the "Y" connector is it makes it easy to adjust the axle clocking by adjusting the one spacer between it and the axle mount. So you only have to adjust one dimension instead of two to get the driveline angle right.

Thanks - My younger brother actually does the ink work, I just do art for him sometimes. I will pass on your comments though, he is relatively new at it (3 years or so) and although his work is pretty impressive for the short time he's been at it, his level of confidence in himself can always use a boost.

I stick to the pencil and paper myself, actually tattooing someone is way too intimidating for me...

Thanks Mike... it is much appreciated"thumbsup"

Any chance to get a close up pic of the front a rear bumper mounts? "thumbsup"

Thanks

Not right this second, but I will work on it tonite.

The rear mount is deceptively simple - 2 long 4-40 bolts w/ the appropriate spacers through the stock rear crossmember hold a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate, which screws to the Pro-Line bumper with 2 coarse-thread screws.

The front mount is a little more complex, but still pretty easy. It's a piece of 1 1/2" aluminum angle cut to fit the bumper notch. The winch bolts to the top, and the back screws to the Pro-Line bumper with 2 coarse-thread screws. The angle bolts to the stock front crossmember with 4 6-32 screws.

I'll get you some detailed pics tonite if my brother is not AWOL from his shop (I really need my own digi camera!!)

looks great! love the dietail! you took you time with this it looks tops!

MDcrawler72 - a couple closer shots of the bumper mounts:

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You can see here where the aluminum angle is notched to fit in the center of the bumper, with enough left on the back to cover the 2 existing holes in the back of the bumper. These holes are where the 2 coarse-thread screws (black heads in the pic) attach the angle to the bumper.
The winch simply bolts to the top of the angle, with the supplied 2mm hardware.
Then the whole assembly bolts to the stock front crossmember with 4 6-32 screws, 2 of which are visible here.

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The rear is even easier. 2 4-40 screws with spacers (mine are long enough to double as a frame extension, it depends on what body you're using) pass through the stock rear crossmember and bolt to a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate. The 2 black headed screws are 2 more coarse-thread screws into the stock holes in the back of the bumper.

You'll need to make a little room in the "webbing" in the back of the bumpers wherever your hardware comes through into the inside. I just snipped it out of the way w/ a pair of side-cutters.

Hopefully this makes some sense...

Nice build man"thumbsup"

Those CGR's are really cool looking with all the accessories added to them but you did a great job putting it all together, the color looks great. I agree with you about leaving the front length the same and stretching it in the rear only to get the extra wb.

More pics!

Thanks.
I did get some more pics today, so here they are
This is at a spot in a friends neighborhood where 1:1 trucks come to play. In the first shot you can see the power line access road going up the other side of the valley in the background. Guys drive up through the hood to here, then take the access road over to another road.
If I could have gotten this shot 2 or 3 minutes earlier, there would have been a 4Runner and a CJ visible climbing the other side...

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A couple flex shots. It does remarkably well crawling despite my deliberate attempt to keep the ride height and articulation limited to "still street-legal" dimensions. You just have to remember it's a scaler (not a comp rig) and not try to make it do things that are beyond it's abilities. Like you would if you had a real 1:1 truck out wheelin'...

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These shots would look so much better if there were'nt graffitti all over the place. Cretins...:-(

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The one action shot that came out decent, jumping a flat ramp shaped rock in the trail. The RC4WD shocks are working pretty good for crawling type driving, but leave a lot to be desired when the speed increases. And the 35t ain't all that fast on 7.4 volts either (I was just barely able to keep the front end in the air over this rock, you can tell the back wheels are still on the rock and the front wheels are already dropping) these shocks are gonna have their hands full when the Cobalt Puller gets installed...

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Wow that thing looks good. You going to do a full interior?