Better center of gravity?

[66sprint6]

Went crawlin today and noticed a trend that Im not to keen on...my rig is a bit tipsy lol. Its a TR with Hilux body, battery moved to the front and thats about it. The body is as low as I possible can get it but she LOVES to tip over. I JUST painted up the body real nice and now it looks like ive crawled with it for a month...not complaining tho, kinda dig it but I wanna make this thing a little more predictable and capable as well. Any tips?
Matt

[EeePee]

Weight in the wheels is about all you can do.

But it's so anti scaler though!

[66sprint6]

Originally Posted by EeePee

Weight in the wheels is about all you can do.

But it's so anti scaler though!

Im all bout the scale deal, but I dont compete against anything except the rocks im crawlin on...Ide kinda like to find a set up thats really scale performance AND look wise, but have somethin else for when I want a little more performance. I might try the wheel weights on a set of beater rims, thanks for the reminder!!!
Matt

[EeePee]

Could find some heavier wheels made from something other than plastic I guess?

[MaxxPain]

I added 4oz per wheel and then removed the rubber spacer in the shocks. I found this worked great for getting the truck to flex and find traction. I think this really helped with less flipping. My Scout body also works great for self riding itself. I think its boxy shape is the reason. So even if its on its side, just stay on the gas.... I also was able to lower the front battery tray like 1/4 or more by trimming the plastic spacers. Just watch the steering servo as that will hit the tray if you trim to much.

[66sprint6]

Originally Posted by MaxxPain

I added 4oz per wheel and then removed the rubber spacer in the shocks. I found this worked great for getting the truck to flex and find traction. I think this really helped with less flipping. My Scout body also works great for self riding itself. I think its boxy shape is the reason. So even if its on its side, just stay on the gas.... I also was able to lower the front battery tray like 1/4 or more by trimming the plastic spacers. Just watch the steering servo as that will hit the tray if you trim to much.

4oz huh, thats what ill try and see what happens. I did notice the battery tray has some room to be lowered and will be doin that tonight for sure! The rubber pieces are already gone LOL. What are you using for wheel weights and where did you get em?
Matt

[MaxxPain]

I used the Great Plane stick on weights. But they are like $6 at my local hobby shop. I've read of others buying lead stick on weights at a tire shop for a better price.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK204&P=7

[BadRockNoCookie]

Did you mount your receiver box as low as it can possibly be mounted? It can be mounted in the rear to the crossbrace that goes between the rear shocks without any spacers.

They wheel weights will help alot with your problem.

[grimgard]

Drive it like a scaler not a crawler and you should be fine.

All I did is stiffen up my shocks a bit and its a very capable truck.

[66sprint6]

Originally Posted by grimgard

Drive it like a scaler not a crawler and you should be fine.

All I did is stiffen up my shocks a bit and its a very capable truck.

Im not big on the scaler vs comp arguement, i just want somethin that looks real but is as capable as can be given the limitations of scale chassis, wheels, tires, body etc. Im not lookin to get any comp tires, if it doesnt look real I wont buy em, same with the rest but I still would like to tweak and tune the rig to get every ounce of performance and FUN I can Im havin a TON of fun already and Im learnin limitations and how to overcome them if possible. This is some addicting stuff thats for sure!
Matt

[Gimp]

I use 6oz in each up front, 3oz in each rear, front monted battery, axial super soft red rear springs. I didn't even build the shocks with the stupid spacer and mirror built the trans (helps with torque twist and weight distribution). Setup works beautifully

[66sprint6]

Originally Posted by cmb5450

I use 6oz in each up front, 3oz in each rear, front monted battery, axial super soft red rear springs. I didn't even build the shocks with the stupid spacer and mirror built the trans (helps with torque twist and weight distribution). Setup works beautifully

Mirror Built trans? School me on this if you dont mind (have an idea of what you mean but would like a little more specifics)! Thanks so much for sharing your setup!!!
Matt

[Gimp]

Basically just reverse everything in the instructions. It's really easy to do, if you search it you're bound to find something. If you just think about it while building (like I did) you'll be fine. Best part is, the motor still spins the right way.

Here are some older pics (just to show you guys)



Alot's been done/added since these pics. They were taken after I had just finished the kit and got it running. Hope this helps!

[66sprint6]

Sweet, might have to give that a shot! Now, when you say your runnin 6os up front and 3oz in the back, is that overall weight or how much you added to each wheel in addition to the stick weight? I imagine its added but figured ide make for sure.
Matt

[Gimp]

Originally Posted by 66sprint6

Sweet, might have to give that a shot! Now, when you say your runnin 6os up front and 3oz in the back, is that overall weight or how much you added to each wheel in addition to the stick weight? I imagine its added but figured ide make for sure.
Matt

Yea, I added 6oz of weight to each front wheel and 3oz to each rear wheel. I used Great Plane's stick on weights, pretty sure it was 3 packs (6 strips) total.

[66sprint6]

Awesome, i look forward to tryin that out!!! I been beatin the snot outta this thing and am already pretty happy with the way it handles but just want all I can squeeze outta it lol. Thanks for the tips, ill try em out this weekend!!!
Matt

[Gimp]

Originally Posted by 66sprint6

Awesome, i look forward to tryin that out!!! I been beatin the snot outta this thing and am already pretty happy with the way it handles but just want all I can squeeze outta it lol. Thanks for the tips, ill try em out this weekend!!!
Matt

I also forgot to mention venting the wheels. Just drill 2 1/8" holes in each wheel (after you've added the stick on weights). Good luck

[BadRockNoCookie]

Originally Posted by cmb5450

I also forgot to mention venting the wheels. Just drill 2 1/8" holes in each wheel (after you've added the stick on weights). Good luck

But only drill 1 1/8" hole in each rear wheel so you get better climbing traction and loose surface acceleration grip from the rear tires not losing air as quickly.

[70duncan]

I only put 3oz. of weight in both front wheels, and it will impress you what it will climb. The only other mod, is that I am using a 3 cell lipo up front next to the Chassis mounted servo . This set up works well for lexan body.

Don't drill holes in the wheels if you plan on running in the water though. The water will ruin your foam. If stay out of the water, then definatly drill the holes. It does make a big difference.

[Gimp]

Originally Posted by 70duncan

I only put 3oz. of weight in both front wheels, and it will impress you what it will climb. The only other mod, is that I am using a 3 cell lipo up front next to the Chassis mounted servo . This set up works well for lexan body.

Don't drill holes in the wheels if you plan on running in the water though. The water will ruin your foam. If stay out of the water, then definatly drill the holes. It does make a big difference.

Sorry, forgot to add that in about water, thanks 70duncan. I never take mine through water, it's just plain bad for everything. If I do touch water, I go super slow and make sure it doesn't come up past the tire's sidewall tread (lugs).