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02-16-2010, 05:13 AM
| #61 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,213
|  Quote:
 He loves workin' on and drivin' my Honcho | |
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02-16-2010, 05:15 AM
| #62 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,213
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Hey Dave, Why don't you just find another Honcho cab (they sell them seperately, without cage) and use it for the hood? Last edited by Rig Rocker; 02-16-2010 at 05:02 PM. |
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02-17-2010, 11:57 PM
| #63 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Petaluma
Posts: 282
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Hey Rig Humm, Now why didn't I think of that??? Doh!!!  That would have been a lot easier (and less painful).hahaha... BTW - Saw your video - cool !!! Thx
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02-18-2010, 12:00 AM
| #64 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Petaluma
Posts: 282
| Quote:
 We'll see, I ask her... | |
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02-18-2010, 05:11 AM
| #65 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Darwin Australia
Posts: 148
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There is a thread I saw somewhere that shows how to use cotton thread to cut lexan. Seemed like it worked real well & left you with a small neat cut. Nice work on the truck by the way  |
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02-20-2010, 01:36 PM
| #66 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chapin, South Carolina
Posts: 666
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Wheres the cage?
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02-21-2010, 09:16 AM
| #67 | ||
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Petaluma
Posts: 282
| Quote:
And using thread as a saw blade! Yeap, that might have just worked. Having never tried it, I guess I was seeking the more familiar approach of man handling it until I got frustrated. Darn it - well, there's always next time. Live and learn... Doh!:? The good news is what's coming out of desperation in refabricating the hood. The hood mold I've been working on is being changed a bit. And although I haven't figured out all the logistics just yet of making it fit right, I'm hopeful the result will be better in the long run. I'm getting closer to resolving the errors I made earlier. Yesterday, I picked up some more styrene sheets to run a few additional hood prototypes. I think one problem I had was using too thick of a styrene sheet. I went from a thickness of nearly 1.00 mm down to 0.30 mm. I think its possible that any size smaller might be too flimsey but will have to wait and see how the 0.30 size works first. The next task after is to design the hood's mounting system. I did find a small toy that was hinged and have been thinking of canabolizing it for them but the roll cage idea might also support a hinge too. It would just require a new part of the roll cage to run through the hood cowling and then run a horizontal bar across the two vertical ends. I know - might sound complicated but I have about 30 pages of hand drawn plans and nothing has been set in stone yet. Still designing and redesigning stuff to work out all the bugs first. I keep making it more complicated than it probably needs to be so I'm trying to simplify things a bit more. And in using the hood plaster technique, I'm also incorporating that towards the seat design so it's all been a good thing I accidently destroyed the original hood and was forced to make my own. Quote:
After brazing the brasswork on my Tamiya F350, and found it took nearly "forever" to get a joint hot enough using a MAPP torch alone. I needed a better idea before attacking the numerious cage welds on this build. Luckly, Mr Vertical gave me the info I needed. So for this cage, I think once I get the equipment things will roll a lot faster. A little update on the cage, I decided to try and work-in the existing rear honcho roll cage to the design. The reason was to maintain some honcho's "stock" appeal. I've practically changed or altered every part on the truck so far but didn't want to loose the original honcho appeal in the process. It will be a matter of trial and error to find out if it will actually work but the idea is to drill the core of the brass tubing, tap, and retrofit screw dowels first (or in some areas) then braze other areas. The idea should make for an increased "bullet proof" strength that will prevent spot welds from popping under impact while incorporating the original cagework. If that doesn't work, the backup plan is a total roll cage makeover. Last edited by FodigoDave; 02-21-2010 at 09:22 AM. | ||
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02-21-2010, 08:53 PM
| #68 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Leduc, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 54
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Fodigo, i don't know why people don't use Oxy/Acetelyne more. You can go and get home kits that are pretty small and portable and will last forever. the heat intensity you can get from a O/A set up is perfect for brazing rods. Also with a number 1 torch tip you can get your heat spot down to the size of a dime.
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02-22-2010, 11:24 AM
| #69 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Petaluma
Posts: 282
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I am estimating about 4 weeks for the tube work but I'm trying something I will have to test to see if it will work. I'll post some pics of a few other things I've been working on shortly. | |
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02-22-2010, 07:18 PM
| #70 | |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Leduc, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 54
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02-24-2010, 04:47 AM
| #71 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Petaluma
Posts: 282
| MAPP gas 2,010°C (3,650°F) in air / 2,927°C (5,301°F) in oxygen!! :-P Holy Hell! (Acetylene 5720 °F) What's a few hundred degrees when your talking 0ver 5000 °F, right? AWESOME!!! Big difference between O2 and just plain MAPP gas. NICE! I started tuibe bending today. Some bends were a bit tight. Cheers to MAN STRENGTH and a pair of pliers! Funny how drawing plans change when you really get to "doing it". Already fell into a little problem but I'm working throught it. And I think the end result will be stronger. A friend (Kevin) who's a fire fighter gave me some good information regarding fire trucks and their equipment. This will add a bit of character to the build later on. I seem to be jumping from one area to another then bouncing back and can't get focused on just one thing at a time. Started doing more with the interior (for example) and what a pain that's turning into. My driver, even after a few boiling water baths to get her positioned right she seems to be slowly (over a weeks time) moving back to her original position. I'm going to have a more "stern" talk with her later. ... I was wondering why I had to keep redesigning my seat and relocating my steering column. Now I know (LOL). Got the High Lift Jack mounted with some functional mounting brackets. Looks cool but not painted yet and they are just tension fit on the diamond plate (not permenently affixed yet). Last edited by FodigoDave; 02-24-2010 at 10:06 AM. |
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02-24-2010, 05:34 AM
| #72 | |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: podunk
Posts: 79
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You can get acetylene up to 7500°f but it takes a big cutting torch. The 5720°f is probably accurate with the welding tips on it. | |
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04-06-2010, 09:51 PM
| #73 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Leduc, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 54
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update??
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05-13-2010, 09:38 AM
| #74 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Topeka
Posts: 82
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Anything new?
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05-13-2010, 08:35 PM
| #75 | |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Leduc, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 54
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06-07-2010, 11:20 AM
| #76 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Thomasville, NC
Posts: 904
| x4 ???  |
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09-23-2010, 08:58 AM
| #77 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Calahoo, Alberta
Posts: 91
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Subscribing in case Dave makes his way back here. I'd like to see how this story ends. Hopefully he's not buried and tangled in all of his wiring.
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09-23-2010, 10:02 AM
| #78 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,213
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Any progress?
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09-23-2010, 02:57 PM
| #79 |
| I wanna be Dave  Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 2,781
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Dave where did you go? This is looking too good to let it die out. BTW - my fire extinguisher just went on it's third build. It's taken a beating but it's still intact and looking pretty decent. HiLux take 2... |
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01-19-2011, 12:50 PM
| #80 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Hollister
Posts: 223
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Any updates?????
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