what mods were made to this TR? and other questions

[spacephrawg]

The guy who posted the video hasn't posted anything in the comments in a long time so I was hoping you guys could advise:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGDZnihBjOg&feature=PlayList&p=295F0F794395A8B7&index=96

The TR's bit starts at 2:25. Its probably the handsomest TR i've ever seen.

I have a few questions about it:

What brand do you suppose was the green front steering linkage?

Which epic tires are that and do you suppose any suspension mods were made to accommodate it? Is it just me or did the builder some how manage to avoid wheel rub despite their size?

What did he use for the front bumper? what about the fog lamps?

Why does the body flex and bounce around like that? Its the only downfall of this rig. it seems like nobody in the video knew how to tie down a body shell properly. Please tell me that a TR's body doesn't normally do that! I'd be very saddened if it did!

Side note: my friend who recently got a TR has done very few if any upgrades on it and says he hasn't needed any of the spare parts that came with yet. He says the rear plastic linkage has never given him a problem. Think I would be fine with keeping that part stock for a while? How long do you suppose it would last?



Sidenote: that 8x8 is pretty badass, aint it? Crap body though.


Edit: just thought of something else: most of the time I don't see crawlers with vertical antenna poles. Usually I see pics where the build coiled the wire around a piece of plastic card on the chassis and thats that, and theres no problem wiht it functionally. Meanwhile in this video, the TR has the traditional array waving in the breeze. Not too scale. Is there any difference in receiver performance if i have the thing aloft vs. the other way?

On my boat, I have the array inside the hull and there is no problem at all. I can get tons of range on the boat, not that i can see it all that well when it is 40 ft away but still. What do you advise?

[ae racer]

green linkage looks like a stock ax10 linkage

tires and wheels look to be stock ax10 wheels with 2.2 slingers
prob. raised the body posts to fit the larger wheels

front bumper and lamps look to be stock tr equiptment

body bounce can be fixed mostly by putting a thin piece of padding between the body and the post to make the body a tighter fit when the body clips are in.
the toyota was a ax10 comp crawler with that body thown on top...doesnt look like it was actually secured.(maybe with 2 posts or tape or something..)

you dont HAVE to swap out the links, most guys do because they like the metal links better.. you can run them till they break or upgrade right away..(i have a set of brand new plastic links if you want them..just pay shipping)

[66sprint6]

The plastic links are tuff and they slide off of rocks real well so I wouldnt get in a hurry to replace em. I swapped my rears out for high clearance lowers, but the fronts are the stock plastic and will stay that way for a while at least. Only mods that I feel the TR needs would be a BEC, 12T pinion, move battery to the front and eventually a metal steering servo arm. These things were built to crawl, and outta the box stock they are extremely capable little suckers. With those mods and some weight in the wheels Ive been able to do some stupid stuff with mine!
Matt

[88gmchog]

that is a ok looking tr, my body didnt stay on to long, i favored the 80 chevy body by proline, i agree with ae racer, stock ax10 wheels painted and rc4wd mudslingers with the body post raised to clear them. raising the body post all the way up can give it that bouncy look too. been there tried the 2.2 look on my tr and didnt like it. and as far as the links they are ok, the only reason i took my rears off was in favor of shorter ones to fit my bodies wheelbase

[GP40X]

Modifications I have made to my SCX 10TR and the order they were made in (reason for modifications in parentheses).

Airtronics MX-Sport Radio (installed the day I got the truck to get off 27 AM Already had the radio and an extra receiver)
Moved battery tray to front (moved the day I got the truck to make a more capable crawler)
Integy 45T motor with a 14 tooth pinion (installed the day I got the truck to make a more capable crawler)
Castle BEC (installed after first run due to AE-1 speed controller BEC stalling out every time I hung a wheel in the rocks at the first comp. Pointed out due to constant repositioning)
Pro-Line 1.9 Titus Wheels with 6 oz in each front wheel to try to counteract the top heavy weight of the Nimh battery when moved to the front.
Homemade front steering link (Axial stock plastic link is ok for stock wheels but became a wet noodle {lots of flex} when I put a little weight in the wheels).
Hi-tec 645MG servo (Axial AS-2 metal gear servo bushings did not hold up to the new wheels and the servo said )
Futaba 3PM-MX radio (wanted a 3 position switch for future winch installation)
Hand Bro's Chassis Mounted Steering kit with the TR add on ( -5 scale points but I had to move battery tray back to the rear until I make/buy a new delrin battery plate to fit around the servo).
Holmes Hobbies Waterproofed Torquemaster BR-XL with a Torquemaster Sport 35T motor and a 14 tooth pinion (CAN YOU SAY CONTROL? Drag brake and the "Holmes Hold" made this a new crawler and waterproofing is icing on the cake as in MUDDING MUHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA)
Hyperion 35C 2200mah 3S Lipo (LOTS OF WHEEL SPEED).
Last mod was a Losi Aluminum servo arm due to stripping out the Axial servo arm due to all the weight in the front wheels

[Trex]

Originally Posted by 66sprint6

The plastic links are tuff and they slide off of rocks real well so I wouldnt get in a hurry to replace em. I swapped my rears out for high clearance lowers, but the fronts are the stock plastic and will stay that way for a while at least. Only mods that I feel the TR needs would be a BEC, 12T pinion, move battery to the front and eventually a metal steering servo arm. These things were built to crawl, and outta the box stock they are extremely capable little suckers. With those mods and some weight in the wheels Ive been able to do some stupid stuff with mine!
Matt

Yeah the plastic links are real strong the fronts started bending as well,hello alloy upgrade kit

[Trex]

The green links are from the AX10 rear steer kit (mine are) the plastic steering links were bendy crap

[spacephrawg]

Originally Posted by 88gmchog

that is a ok looking tr, my body didnt stay on to long, i favored the 80 chevy body by proline, i agree with ae racer, stock ax10 wheels painted and rc4wd mudslingers with the body post raised to clear them. raising the body post all the way up can give it that bouncy look too. been there tried the 2.2 look on my tr and didnt like it. and as far as the links they are ok, the only reason i took my rears off was in favor of shorter ones to fit my bodies wheelbase

Your body didn't stay on too long? as in it fell apart?

What was your shorter wb?

[spacephrawg]

Originally Posted by GP40X

Modifications I have made to my SCX 10TR and the order they were made in (reason for modifications in parentheses).

Airtronics MX-Sport Radio (installed the day I got the truck to get off 27 AM Already had the radio and an extra receiver)
Moved battery tray to front (moved the day I got the truck to make a more capable crawler)
Integy 45T motor with a 14 tooth pinion (installed the day I got the truck to make a more capable crawler)
Castle BEC (installed after first run due to AE-1 speed controller BEC stalling out every time I hung a wheel in the rocks at the first comp. Pointed out due to constant repositioning)
Pro-Line 1.9 Titus Wheels with 6 oz in each front wheel to try to counteract the top heavy weight of the Nimh battery when moved to the front.
Homemade front steering link (Axial stock plastic link is ok for stock wheels but became a wet noodle {lots of flex} when I put a little weight in the wheels).
Hi-tec 645MG servo (Axial AS-2 metal gear servo bushings did not hold up to the new wheels and the servo said )
Futaba 3PM-MX radio (wanted a 3 position switch for future winch installation)
Hand Bro's Chassis Mounted Steering kit with the TR add on ( -5 scale points but I had to move battery tray back to the rear until I make/buy a new delrin battery plate to fit around the servo).
Holmes Hobbies Waterproofed Torquemaster BR-XL with a Torquemaster Sport 35T motor and a 14 tooth pinion (CAN YOU SAY CONTROL? Drag brake and the "Holmes Hold" made this a new crawler and waterproofing is icing on the cake as in MUDDING MUHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA)
Hyperion 35C 2200mah 3S Lipo (LOTS OF WHEEL SPEED).
Last mod was a Losi Aluminum servo arm due to stripping out the Axial servo arm due to all the weight in the front wheels

Ok got me some [stupid] questions here:

Castle BEC - we're talking ESC's yes? I am confused. Why would the other thing stall out? Please explain.

What is this magical Delrin stuff?

Stupid Question: the Holmes hobbies waterproofed torquemaster thing - thats a servo, right? Thought you already said you had a Hitech servo in there. if its a motor, I thought you already said you had a motor earlier in the list. I am confused.

When all was said and done, how much money was spent?

[spacephrawg]

Trex: my jaw dropped and eyes bugged out when i saw that bent links picture.

Which brand of metal links is cheaper? Axial or...there was another whose name I forget, that was recommended as "just as good as axial" in another thread about aluminum links.

How much did the AX10 rear steer steering links cost?



back to the general theme of the thread: is there any way to stabilize the body posts when they're that tall? Are they just bendy or is it the geometry?

[Sverref]

BEC is a Battery Eliminator Circuit, that feeds your steering servo with the Voltage u set it at or it is preset too, the Holmes Hobbies Waterproof thingie is the ESC

[88gmchog]

Originally Posted by spacephrawg

Your body didn't stay on too long? as in it fell apart?

What was your shorter wb?

No, my dingo body is sittin like new on a shelf, i just wanted something more scale so i put on the chevy body that i got with it. As for the wb its about 1/8 to 1/4'' shorter in the rear only.

What is this magical Delrin stuff?

a good plastic thats fairly strong and slides well over rocks n such

Originally Posted by spacephrawg

Trex: my jaw dropped and eyes bugged out when i saw that bent links picture.

Which brand of metal links is cheaper? Axial or...there was another whose name I forget, that was recommended as "just as good as axial" in another thread about aluminum links.

How much did the AX10 rear steer steering links cost?

axial links are a direct fit package so i would think them to be best, others may chime in a correct me if i am wrong. cheapest place to find them is on ebay, just search axial links.

back to the general theme of the thread: is there any way to stabilize the body posts when they're that tall? Are they just bendy or is it the geometry?

don't raise them all the way up. mine are about half way up or so and do not do that, also a small foam spacer or something like that under the body on the mount prevents any rattle that might be there

[spacephrawg]

Originally Posted by Sverref

BEC is a Battery Eliminator Circuit, that feeds your steering servo with the Voltage u set it at or it is preset too, the Holmes Hobbies Waterproof thingie is the ESC

How much did it set you back and how necessary is it? Also what did you set it at?

[88gmchog]

a good castle creations runs $20-$30 bucks depending on where you get it, or $15 0n here in the classifieds section and someone has one posted to sell quick

[GP40X]

Originally Posted by spacephrawg

Ok got me some [stupid] questions here:

Castle BEC - we're talking ESC's yes? I am confused. Why would the other thing stall out? Please explain.

What is this magical Delrin stuff?

Stupid Question: the Holmes hobbies waterproofed torquemaster thing - thats a servo, right? Thought you already said you had a Hitech servo in there. if its a motor, I thought you already said you had a motor earlier in the list. I am confused.

When all was said and done, how much money was spent?

The Axial AE-1 ESC has an internal 1 amp linear BEC. When a wheel would hang on a rock, the servo would pull more than 1 amp trying to straighten the wheel, The truck would stall until it was picked up and the servo could return to center. The Castle BEC is a switching regulated BEC, I left it at 5.1 volts. The BEC was given to me by a friend who had some extras (BEC was new in bag and my friend had several new ones on a wall peg in bags. He is a large scale airplane guy and usually puts two or three in one of his planes. I think he buys them in bulk, LOL helps to have frineds ).

Delrin is an extremely tough homopolymer acetel resin plastic. Good stuff and if you start making your own links and trays, will become your material of choice.

The Torquemaster BR-XL ESC is a brushed only motor speed control made by castle specifically for Holmes Hobbies. It has a 6 volt 5 amp internal SWITCHING BEC, is 6S rated and I paid the extra $10.00 to have John waterproof it. It is programable with a Castle Link. Check it out in both the Electronics thread and the vendors thread as Holmes Hobbies is a featured vendor and John Holmes is a frequent poster and is very helpful on the forums and an all around good guy.

I replaced the Integy 45T motor with a Torquemaster Sport 35T motor (appears to be an Integy 35T ,motor that John trued the comm on his lathe and added the motor sticker). Much better than the stock Integy motor as the comm is already turned to true it up and it was less expensive than the big guys {Tower, A main, etc...)

Oh, and how much money was spent. TOO MUCH but it was worth it

[Trex]

Originally Posted by spacephrawg

Trex: my jaw dropped and eyes bugged out when i saw that bent links picture.

Which brand of metal links is cheaper? Axial or...there was another whose name I forget, that was recommended as "just as good as axial" in another thread about aluminum links.

How much did the AX10 rear steer steering links cost?



back to the general theme of the thread: is there any way to stabilize the body posts when they're that tall? Are they just bendy or is it the geometry?

Ya should have seen my face the first the links bent variable wheelbase
the ax10 rear steer kit cost $29us it's now sold as TR,Honcho HD steering upgrade kit
http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/shop/ind...oducts_id=2588
the alloy link upgrade kit cost $52.99us it also includes the alloy steering arms and all the hardware needed to run the 4 link truss
http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/shop/ind...oducts_id=2526