Defender 90

[FuriousCal]

Has anyone done a hardbody D90 like this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-10-Land-Rover-...item414cb0730b

I have seen the lexon body D90s around.

[canadianbacon]

I've seen quite a few people use that body (or one very similar to it) for builds on here.

[khj94704]

those are really nice bodies and peter is a great ebay seller and regular on scale4x4

[dvd_777]

Will they fit the scx 's wheelbase or will it need adjusted?
Cheers

[FuriousCal]

I think the rear links need shortened. Not sure how much.

[rhothar]

how would the rear body mounts work with the interior?

[spacephrawg]

I hereby subscribe to this thread in hopes that it may get revived.

[shannwah]

I've just finished building one.







I shortened the upper and lower rear links by about 6mm each and also moved the spacer on the upper link mount from in front of the truss to behind it.
For body mounting I used magnets. On the front i cut off the top of the body posts so you are left with the flat part the body sits on and glued 5 or 6 1mm magnets to that and then the same amount to the underside of the hood.
On the back, the body has three tabs that protrude down from the bottom. On the outer two, i glued magnets that line up with magnets on the inside of the rear bumper. The centre tab lines up perfectly with the rear chassis cross member, so i cut down a body post and screwed it to the cross member horizontally pointing to the front of the truck with the screw going in from the outside rear of the cross member. The centre tab simply slips straight over this. I did origonally use a body clip to hold it, but found it's not needed as the magnets hold it in place anyway. This method on the rear has held the body on rock solid. So there's no vertical rear mounts at all and you've got the full interior.
I've sat the body reasonably low on the chassis as i've seen others that sit very high so they probably didn't want to cut any holes in the interior to fit it lower. I don't like that look at all, so I did cut small sections of the interior out, mainly to fit the spur gear, the front driveshaft, part of the motor, tops of the rear shock towers and the front mounted battery. Mind you, I am using a big square edged 5000Mah 2s lipo. A smaller battery would fit easily with no mods. Gotta love the runtime though!! With the body on, you have to look really close to see any of these holes so it's not an issue at all. I may add a driver anyway and that will cover up a lot.
For the true scale Land Rover look, you see many of these with much smaller tyres than the Proline Flat Irons. With the body sitting this low, the flat irons rub a lot. I was aiming for a more modified look, so i enlarged the fenders and used fender flares from the TR. Now there is no rub at all, but the body still doesn't look like it's just been hacked up to make the wheels fit!
It took a bit of work to fit the way i wanted it, but it was definately worth it. These bodies are so detailed and i think it looks great.

[shannwah]

spacephrawg, thanks for the comments and to answer your questions:


The wheelbase is now just over 11 inches. I haven't measured it exaclty, but it didn't need to be shortened that much.

All I did to the shcok hoops was move them to the forward holes already provided. The top of the shock is mounted in the front of the three holes.

Links: I simply cut the stock links with a hacksaw and extended the thread with a tap.

The front links are all stock.

I used a Dremel to cut out parts of the interior. It was simply a case of put the body on, see what needs to be removed and go for it. I thought it would only be the spur gear that I needed to clear, but once the body came down, more spots showed up.

[shannwah]

More pics......now with black beadlock rings and some other shots of the body mounts.

[spacephrawg]

Thanks for all of this.

What paint did you use on it?

Also what glue did you use to hold the magnets in and did the magnets mess with radio reception or electronic function at all?