SCX10 honcho hopups Hi all Loving the standard honcho, is there a must have hopups for SCX10 honcho to prevent future breakage, excessive wear, etc and increase realiablity, not just for looks I was thinking of the axial cvds as it would be more efficient, I understand to replace the cvd pins with piano wire to make it stronger I m planning to fit traxxas stampede driveshaft as heard the standard ones pops out alot Is there anything else |
Aluminum C's, knuckles, lockout and MIP driveshaft. |
I've heard the HandBros steering upgrade is worth its weight in gold |
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MIP driveshafts are awesome, as are the carbon steel ones from toughracing.com oh and I also suggest getting some aftermarket shocks (i.e. Losi 4" comp shocks, Pro-Line's powerstrokes, etc.) and possibly lookin into a custom tube bumper and rock rails (less flex when under heavy loads) just my 2 cents |
After going through two of those nasty cheap ass Y links for the rear three link setup I'd say get a four link truss installed asap! The standard 3 link setup on the rear of the honcho is weak and on mine, broke the Y piece into 3 pieces twice over. > Broken Y piece http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/DSC03870.jpg > Fixed now : http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...o/DSC03874.jpg |
Thanks for starting this thread. Thanks to all for the recommendations. I think my priority order for hop-ups is going to be: 1. MIP drive shaft 2. Handbros steering upgrade 3. Aluminum C's and knuckles Does anybody know if there are shocks with internal springs that fit the Axial SCX-10 and if they would be worthwhile? Also, is there any type of upgrade for using a 2S Lipo like the ones for the 1/16 Traxxas VXL eRevo or 1/16 Traxxas VXL Slash and a way to lower it on the chassis? |
Don't bother with the Proline shocks as I noticed a big downgrade in performance over stock shocks with the bumpstops removed. The dual rate springs on the Prolines were too light for the front and too heavy for the rear. |
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also 4. Steel trans outputs. Go ahead and do yourself the favor and do this with the MIP's, you'll never lose a drive shaft again with loctite. Well worth the $11. |
I have got to agree with the mudcat on steel out-puts for the trans, Robinson Racing one piece is what I have used with no problems. As for Alum. C-hubs and knuckles, IMHO I think the Alum. C-hubs with stock knuckles work pretty good, the stockers will give and little and not bend like the Alum. knuckles. After all this is a scaler not a comp. rig, well thats what I keep telling myself:mrgreen: |
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With respect to the above - does anybody have a link to a web page that shows exactly what parts are being referred to? I am getting weird Google results. Thanks in advance! |
here ya go http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ax30544.htm hope this is what you were looking for "thumbsup" Quote:
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I'm with 4 link on the arse as well. Alum c & knucks Steel outputs MIP or other decent shaft upgrade hand bro's kit i wouldnt swap out the shocks themselves, just get some softer lower springs |
are the axial aluminum links the better choice of links to use if upgrading from the rtr honcho? thanks! |
when you have this http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/rrp1542.htm you do not need this http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ax30544.htm , right ? |
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All good idea's just a question on the mip shafts? Anyone else notice a binding issue with these?I know of several in the scaler world that have taken them out and went back to the traxxas shafts.. Sorry for hijacking:oops: |
Binding comes from bad installation 99% of the time, the pins on both ends need to line up perfect, at 180 off there is two positions the shafts slide together that are both a little off one way or the other, only one way to slide them together right. |
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Can you post more pictures on this set-up and maybe a parts list? Where do I pick up the bar that goes on the axle for the TRX Links to attach to? Thanks! |
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You'll want to get this kit to 4 link it with alluminum: http://www.axialracing.com/details.php?Id=4020 Can be had much cheaper than Axial's recommended $75 list price. |
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