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04-15-2010, 04:16 AM
| #21 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Northumberland, UK
Posts: 69
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Nice work man, I'm glad you like the way the kit is coming together Just a thought on a scheme....   |
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04-15-2010, 02:37 PM
| #22 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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Lol. Dumb and Dumber. good movie. but somehow i think my truck would overheat with fur on it..lol neat idea though.. also...I think I remember that van being on an episode of "weird Wheels" on TLC a few years back.. | |
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05-10-2010, 09:04 PM
| #23 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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Well soldered up my FXR..installing it tommorow...I went with XT60 connectors. (the hobbyking yellow ones) I heard great reviews of them so I figured I'd give them a shot..$6 for 5 pairs.. (5 male 5 female) and I soldered the wires direct to the motor...but i can easily change it to connectors if I need to...I also accidentally grabbed the probe part and burnt my finger and thumb...Lol :><: if all goes well...I plan on switching everything up to my Slash with XT60 Connectors(becasue the AMPS they're rated for)...they're easier to solder then deans or Traxxas. and they look great. there's also another connector comming out i think XT120..and they'll be for things like an E-Revo and anything 1/8th scale OH! I also installed a CMS Hand Bros steering Kit and made the front end a true 3 link set up...and I plan on 4 linking the rear soemtime eventually... Lowered the body a bit...works better then I thought it would  you can sorta see the upper 3 link in this pic...  still haven't taken it out on any real rocks yet...but I will Lol         |
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06-01-2010, 10:44 AM
| #24 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Stuck in Missouri for now.
Posts: 284
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Weren't able to keep the interior hey? I've been trying to figure out how to keep mine in while still getting the body to sit low enough. And as far as I'm concerned cutting it up is not an option. Looks like its time to find a small t-case and way to mount the motor up front.
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06-01-2010, 10:57 AM
| #25 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Orange City
Posts: 203
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Good luck with those mirrors  |
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06-01-2010, 12:20 PM
| #26 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
| Quote:
yea..lol..but my LHS has styrene sheets...I was thinking of using the original interior as a template..and make a new floor board with styrene then just bolt in the original seats and dash....Only thing I won't have is the rear seats but doesn't matter to me..I'm gonna cut the styrene so that it goes over the spur gear and motor...and into the back of the cab so I can use the original mounting holes... I have moved the bettery to under the hood. (2200Mah 3s LiPo)..and the way i'm gonna cut it it will hide the spur gear from view...and I may take it so far as to making boat sides... styrene at my LHS is about $5 for a 2x2 sheet...+/- a few cents depending on thickness | |
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06-01-2010, 11:23 PM
| #27 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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Little bit of progress...made a custom battery tray to work with the Hand bros steering kit...moved the electronics box to the rear for the gas tank look and possibly start some interior styrene work tomorrow... I'll have pics tommorow. |
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06-02-2010, 11:10 AM
| #28 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Orange City
Posts: 203
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Just a suggestion but I would lower the rear of the body down to cover the frame and relocate the taillights into the body.  Just my two cents
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06-02-2010, 12:36 PM
| #29 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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I had to remove the tail lights from the frame anyways to make room for the electronics box to fit.. and I'd lower the rear of the body more...but when the rear axle articulates it rubs the body..I've got is as low as possible atm. would adding inner wheel wells *hide* the body being to high? and i'm gonna work on LEDS in the near future..I have all the stuff...just need the urge to do it lol | |
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06-02-2010, 03:03 PM
| #30 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Stuck in Missouri for now.
Posts: 284
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Wheel wells will help hide the chassis from showing. I plan on the same thing in mine. Also, there is a build on here where someone did the same thing you are thinking of with the interior. Making a floorpan basically and attaching the seats and whatnot to it. I have to use the full interior on mine, I spent too much time detailing it, adding things like carpet, repainting it, and touching it up. So it's going in, no matter what. I am going to look into R2 trannies and see if I can stick them where the stock AX10 tranny bolted up and get the body low enough. Also, I am considering running 1.55s on my rig to keep it a little more scale looking, and hopefully prevent some of that body rubbing. I'll link the SS builds that I am using as reference for mine, so that you can take a look and get some good ideas. |
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06-02-2010, 08:43 PM
| #31 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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Update! Relocated the electrical box for the gas tank look:   my custom made battery tray...made it out of a fairly thick peice of polycarbonate i had lying around in my garage  used thread and cut out the tonneau cover to ready it for a new drop in bed...the thread worked like a hot knife through butter!   new front 3-link set up.  and hoping to start the styrene work tomorrow on the interior or bed... I got styrene today at the LHS today  |
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06-03-2010, 11:03 AM
| #32 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Orange City
Posts: 203
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I tried using the r2 trans in mine before, it will work out ok for you as long as you don't plan on getting it wet. The first time mine got wet it didn't want to turn any more. Also with keeping the interior of the SS the way it was the body still rode a little too high above the frame for me. I'm sure with a little modification and lifting up the back seat of the interior it might work though. Here's my thread before with the R2HD check out post 30 you could do the same with a regular R2 as well Linked, Lifted, and Waterproof | |
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06-03-2010, 11:06 AM
| #33 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Orange City
Posts: 203
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Nice cutting glad that worked out for you good luck on the bed  can't wait to see it done
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06-03-2010, 07:19 PM
| #34 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: babylon, long island ny
Posts: 887
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looks good! cant wait to see more!
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06-03-2010, 09:00 PM
| #35 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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got around to doing a little bit of mock up with cardboard templates... not sure whether to go with round wheel wells or go for some square ones...the square ones would give me more "usable" space...and I think would make the truck look a little more aggressive then if it had round ones... ♦      While typing this post...I just thought about my stock honcho bed...i thought maybe I could use that as a template instead..copy some of the lines off it for a bed....i'll see about that tomorrow....AFTER coming back from the Barrie Automotive flea market... |
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06-03-2010, 09:03 PM
| #36 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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also..anyone know a safe way to remove the "Dale Earnhardt" Signature fro mthe rear window with out damaging the window itself?
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06-04-2010, 12:53 AM
| #37 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 688
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i think that you should make the drop bed look as real as possible...as for the removing of the sig... i used some fingernail polish remover on one of my bodies and it didnt do too much fogging to the window. i put the solution on a cotton swab and rubbed the sig off really quick and then cleaned anything left over with something like a towel.
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06-06-2010, 04:20 PM
| #38 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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well cut the styrene and glued it up for a bed then glued it into the body...i think i'm gonna reinforce the bond with hot glue. I'm aware of the gap between the window and bed...i'm gonna use a piece of the tonneu cover i cut out to cover it back up and then use it to hold the interior in... and yes...I'm gonna paint the bed black to match the body....I also reinstalled the missing tail light and rear spoiler... this is also my first try with styrene...I was amazed at how well it bonded together with the glue I used..(Lok-Tite 495)  also installed the interior....I gave in and cut the original interior to fit I removed the back seat and cut a "T" shaped hole for the tranny to fit over...it's not that noticeable...but i'll make an enclosure for it sometime eventually...  Front view showing the interior...  |
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06-07-2010, 11:02 PM
| #39 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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Well hopeully if the weather co-operates. I'll be out on the trails/rocks tommorow... I know of the CD case wheel wells...but is there anything else I could use? I don't buy spindles of CDs LOL I also thought of instead of leaving the back seats out....that I could raise the rear seats so that they cover the spur gear...keeping the interior intact looking. only thing functional left to do is shave off the body post mounting holes on the rear shock hoops and make up a plate to attach velcro to... then i'll get to making my custom Plates.... :EDIT: I also plan on removing the sliders or cutting them down and fabbing up some custom boat sides based around the stock sliders....using them as a frame kinda |
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06-07-2010, 11:07 PM
| #40 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 511
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and anyone know of anyone who will make up a set of Chevy Silverado 2500 decals? I'd like to have soem of them on inplace of the "intimidator SS" decals...a friend of mine keeps asking me why the front end isn't smashed up on it Lol....i think changing the decals on it would shut him up :P
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