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Old 09-28-2016, 07:30 PM   #361
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by m&mkrawler View Post
How much extra do you think has to be put into the crawler to make it decent...? And whats the most important thing to upgrade first...?
I've heard allot of people leaving them stock for quite some time. There's been posts on here about people running them stock until something breaks. Then upgrading. Me personally i like to make it "My" truck so i've done a whole bunch of stuff to it before i've actually really driven the truck. I still have yet to really drive it hard enough to break anything but eventually it will and i'll upgrade that part. Most common thing i've seen is the plastic links replaced with metal ones due to unwanted flex but these trucks are very capable in stock form.
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:36 PM   #362
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

Replace the weak Y-link mount with a shear mount of some sort, especially in the back. The kits come with the parts you need.
Another freebie is mirror reverse the transmission to reduce torque twist.

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Old 09-28-2016, 07:48 PM   #363
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

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Originally Posted by m&mkrawler View Post
How much extra do you think has to be put into the crawler to make it decent...? And whats the most important thing to upgrade first...?

first of all, drive it stock for a while.. after you manage your rig, then look around where's the possible weak points

then move up replacing:
  1. lower & upper links (if you have the plastic ones) with aluminium
  2. CVDs (replacing the stock dog bones)
  3. C-Hubs & knuckels to aluminium
  4. move the battery tray to the front (if it's still located on the back of your rig)
well at least that's what I did with my scx10, and it does some improvements.. after that, it's all up to you which way you're going with your upgrades
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Old 12-01-2016, 06:56 PM   #364
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

Carbon fiber is your friend. Remember think light! When your climbing rocks low center of gravity.

149 r/c worx's Team Driver
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Old 12-31-2016, 10:03 PM   #365
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Originally Posted by waw View Post
first of all, drive it stock for a while.. after you manage your rig, then look around where's the possible weak points

then move up replacing:
  1. lower & upper links (if you have the plastic ones) with aluminium
  2. CVDs (replacing the stock dog bones)
  3. C-Hubs & knuckels to aluminium
  4. move the battery tray to the front (if it's still located on the back of your rig)
well at least that's what I did with my scx10, and it does some improvements.. after that, it's all up to you which way you're going with your upgrades
still a noob on these crawlers, any help on the info (red color)
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Old 02-13-2017, 02:55 AM   #366
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Can somebody tell me if the scx10 chubs fit on the scx10ii please. I've searched till I'm blue in the face ��
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Old 02-13-2017, 07:48 AM   #367
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Originally Posted by crazee horse View Post
Can somebody tell me if the scx10 chubs fit on the scx10ii please. I've searched till I'm blue in the face
No without a lot of modification. The 10.2 housing is splined like a Wraith AR60. It also uses a clamp bolt on the C instead of opposing through bolts.

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Old 02-21-2017, 06:34 PM   #368
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Default Re: factory honcho bumper mod!!

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Originally Posted by tlmxtcrawler View Post
ok here goes my first write up!!!Well on my honcho the bumper stuck out and was to low for my liking..the goal here was to get it alittle higher and back some for better approach angles..so on to the pics


ok once you have the bumper removed you will see the crossmember that holds the bumper.remove the crossmember and then set it on top of the frame,as shown in the pic.now is the time to take your measurments or like me make a pattern with the holes in it for quick tranfer over to your bracket material.



you will notice that the frame has holes already in it for the factory crossmember location.you will use these to screw your bracket into.the top back holes i drilled out once both sides were screwed together.just make sure you cut the small (nipples) lol off of the factory crossmember to make it smooth for your bracket.



this little bit of moving changes the approach angle enough to have fun not worring about hitting the rocks with the bumper way before the tires get close



with the bumper mounted you can see the bumper ends are way above the tires




a get campbell soup can worth of clearance with this mod..


this is the finished project..it pulls the bumper in and up and for crawling this will help...


well guys this is my tip hope it helps someone else.i realized i needed to take more pics but next time i will improve..thanks and enjoy

What did you make the brackets out of? It looks like carbon fiber!!
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Old 03-10-2017, 10:54 AM   #369
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

Do bend rod ends (especially for upper links) make suspension articulate smoother or it doesn't matter and the straight ones no worse?

Do traxxas metal balls fit the SCX10 mounts or are slighly bigger?

Last edited by GTIgor; 03-10-2017 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 03-27-2017, 11:41 PM   #370
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I lengthened mynypper links around 10mm ish so now the axle is tilted forward slightly reducing wear on the bearings and giving the prop shaft better clearance like the scx10ii
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Old 04-10-2017, 05:57 AM   #371
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by GTIgor View Post
Do bend rod ends (especially for upper links) make suspension articulate smoother or it doesn't matter and the straight ones no worse?

Do traxxas metal balls fit the SCX10 mounts or are slighly bigger?
If your talking about bent links like this:



they're primarily used to raise them up so they dont slide on rocks or get caught up on objects. The upper links are bent to clear other suspension components, like the lower links or angled-inwards shocks.
However that may leave the propshaft more exposed and more prone to dragging on rocks.
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:13 PM   #372
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by GTIgor View Post
Do bend rod ends (especially for upper links) make suspension articulate smoother or it doesn't matter and the straight ones no worse?

Do traxxas metal balls fit the SCX10 mounts or are slighly bigger?
Depends on the geometry of the suspension you're dealing with.

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Old 10-31-2017, 08:33 PM   #373
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

Traxxas TRX-4 bumper mounts work on the SCX-10. You need to file 1mm from each side where the mount slides into the chassis to get it to 70mm overall width. Other than that, perfect fit. The Axial bumpers slide into the TRX-4 mounts perfectly (even tho the holes are square). They can be flipped upside down to offer a lower or higher mounting position. Best thing is, they're only about $10 shipped for the front/rear mounts in a bag - whereas you have to buy an Axial bumper to just get the mount. I've got pics, I'll try and get them posted up tomorrow.





The TRX4 bumper pins (right) are larger than the Axial pins (left)


Last edited by number9; 11-07-2017 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 06-17-2018, 03:31 PM   #374
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

The best tip of all is to get rid of your axial honchos. I spent so much time and money replacing sloppy parts and it never performed anything more than mediocre. Living in the UK with hot and cold weather and a lot of wet mud didn't do it no favours either, since purchasing my hpi venture and TRX4 ( 6 months) I've replaced nothing other than 2 servos. My happiest axial moment was selling them. Both wraith and my scx.
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:41 AM   #375
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

Bought a completly dissasymbled truck in a box. when i put it back together by chance i mirrored the trans. burnt up 2 motors from running alot of negative timing before i did any research on motor direction! I if you buy a used truck pay attention to motor direction if your running a motor thats not set to 0

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Old 01-20-2019, 10:52 AM   #376
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Default Re: Tips and Tricks Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by joshjunior View Post
wait so you used that part number for all of your links?? i thought the uppers and lowers were different sizes?

For dingo wheel base use TRA5318 for both front and rear.

For honcho wheel base use TRA5359 for the rears.

You can use either jato rod ends or like I did and use TRA5133 rod end spacers to correct the pinion angle.

The steel links help to add low weight and are relatively cheap compared to alloy, if you want to keep it light and spend more $ then opt for the alloy links of whatever flavor you prefer.

Hope this helps.


Last edited by Just 4 Fun; 03-03-2019 at 07:11 AM. Reason: added photo
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