10-17-2011, 11:18 PM | #61 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 533
| Quote:
I'd be afraid of the metal ones wearing through the plastic though, lol | |
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10-17-2011, 11:23 PM | #62 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Alberta
Posts: 282
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I did the plastic 1/4" straps for the tilt body as well. Works awesome. I bought them at canadian tire for $1.99 for 6 of them. Great mod!
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10-17-2011, 11:42 PM | #63 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: savage
Posts: 373
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I sold the truck but picking up another soon. Here's a couple looking back through pics. Notched the frame and made some shackle tow points the aluminum steering links is a must too I also did wheely king shocks with cut down coils..flex was nuts but unrealistic. I think on my next scx10, im gonna leave in the stock shocks..for a little while atleast LOL! |
10-18-2011, 01:31 AM | #64 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: mountains of ca
Posts: 317
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A cheap easy tip and purely cosmetic tip is top paint the front locking hub red to simulate a real one. Check out pic, this is after minths of use and i just redid them tonight. This is a honcho with dingo body and plastic links waiting for allum in the mail Also ya can see my rock sliders, i got these for 15 bucks off ebay almost a yr ago and have beat the snot out them. Been on 4 differant trucks now. Just repaint and good to go. I dont know or recall who made them sorry And i almost forgot about the hilift kit for the shocks. Buddy made these for me after he bought or saw a set. I use them off and on depending on tires I use or body. |
10-18-2011, 01:37 AM | #65 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2011 Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,802
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10-18-2011, 11:56 AM | #66 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: savage
Posts: 373
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10-18-2011, 07:27 PM | #67 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 533
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Gear shroud is that knitting/ sewing stuff for crosspoint stitching I think. Got it at a craft store. Did have it as an inner wheelwell/ mudflaps sort of, but with the new battery placement, that wouldn't work Took imasuperbleeder's idea for the battery, and made it work for me. Scrap aluminum for the tray, bent up paper clip for the back part, and a cut hairband with paperclips attached to secure the batt in place Here you can see where that mesh was |
10-19-2011, 10:56 PM | #68 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: ldaho
Posts: 132
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Great idea for a gear cover! My chick was driving her honcho without the body and flipped it on the rock course, BAM! whipped out the spur gear. I was thinking about some piano wire or tube work to build a guard, but that cross stich stuff will do a great job.
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10-19-2011, 11:02 PM | #69 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Troy
Posts: 250
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To go real cheap and real simple on the hinged body, just run two zip ties through the rear cage and around the bumper. This is what Im doing till my magnet set up is permanent, and it works fine, and if I need to remove the body entirely, just snip the ties. |
10-24-2011, 10:02 AM | #70 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: westchester,il
Posts: 279
| kind of trick
Hey guys i found a way for the honcho guys to have bed for the rear tube section,use a losi desert truck body and cut the bed sides off from the cab.than cut 2 slots on top of the bed sides for the 2 rear screws that hold the diamond plate on.loosin the screws and slide the bed sides under the screws and tighten.one problem i see is the top of the bed sides dont line up with the bottom of the windows on the body but the bottom of the bed sides is at the bottom of the body so putting spacers would lose the alighnment at the bottom but non the less it ends up looking alright and gives you bed sides.ill try and post pics later sorry if its kinda hard to understand but its an alright trick and looks pretty decent
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10-24-2011, 01:02 PM | #71 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2011 Location: Utah County
Posts: 1,802
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I'd like to see pics for that.
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10-27-2011, 07:35 PM | #72 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 322
| Running in water
Heres a tip if your running in water, At both end of the diffs on the top there are 2 hole for mountings, these holes go all the way through and will let water in.. So a simply tip is to block up the holes with some small screws/bolts.. Before pic After pic |
10-27-2011, 07:46 PM | #73 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 533
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Wow, didn't even think of that. What a bad design flaw...
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10-27-2011, 10:37 PM | #74 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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I added Revo links for the rear lowers & alum Traxxas 7075 links for the front lowers... I had them laying around from my TLT crawler. (they both are almost exact length as the stock plastic links. fronts are about 1/16" longer & rear revos were about 1/8 longer) Also mirrored the trans. Last edited by airdreams1; 10-27-2011 at 10:45 PM. |
11-01-2011, 05:58 AM | #75 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Rochelle, il
Posts: 1
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whats the point of mirroring the trans? thanks Nick |
11-01-2011, 12:19 PM | #76 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: savage
Posts: 373
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I am doing a rubicon TJ build, did some new body posts out of HPI posts and a stock backing brace |
11-01-2011, 05:50 PM | #77 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 380
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11-01-2011, 06:08 PM | #78 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 396
| I had the same idea but i used some black epoxy. Smoothed it out and u almost cant even notice.
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11-01-2011, 06:38 PM | #79 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Alberta
Posts: 282
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I plugged my holes in the axles with the 4 link truss...
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11-01-2011, 07:48 PM | #80 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 533
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I used 3mm x 3mm set screws (grub screws so people call them too). Flush and looks pretty clean
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