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07-27-2010, 02:31 AM | #1 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Burien
Posts: 133
| Pinion angle/upper link length
Hi everybody, all of my stock axial plastic-on-plastic ball ends are totally worn out. I am installing the included Axial 4 link truss, and making my own links out of stainless steel 8-32 rod with steel brake line sleeving it, capped by Traxxas Revo rod ends. (the rigidity of the threaded rod alone outclasses the wimpy stock plastic by a country mile!) It is my understanding that as a general rule of thumb that the upper links should be about 8mm shorter than the lowers. I was wondering if any of you have experimented with the upper rod lengths to flatten out the pinion angle,and if there is any advantage to doing this, or should I stick with the standard -8mm for the uppers formula. Thanks in advance!!!!!
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07-27-2010, 06:38 AM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Raleigh
Posts: 361
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I wanted to get the pinion up some so I made the upper links longer to clock the rear axle back. Works great!
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07-27-2010, 10:26 AM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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look here- upper link length for honcho with 4-link truss 98-106mm seams to be working best for people |
07-27-2010, 11:11 AM | #4 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 1,962
| That's what I did to mine, the pinions are pointing almost directly at the outputs on the transmission. My bottom links are 135mm long (end of one rod end to the other) while my uppers are 129 I believe (again, end of one rod end to the other).
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07-27-2010, 12:31 PM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Burien
Posts: 133
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Thanks for the replies! Have you guys noticed any improvements by re-clocking the axle? I was wondering if flattening out the pinion angle would relieve some of the load on the driveshafts.
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07-27-2010, 01:45 PM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Moncton, NB, Canada
Posts: 1,962
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It seems to spin easier but I haven't really be able to try it out as I need a new battery. BTW, the measurements I gave was for fitting the Proline 80's Chevy longbed body on a Dingo TR. |
07-27-2010, 01:50 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
| yea it will cut down some and make it a little more efficent, what kit do you have and i think if you run? the axial 4-link truss id run the same length uppers and lowers.
Last edited by 2500hdon37s; 07-27-2010 at 02:02 PM. |
07-27-2010, 07:17 PM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Burien
Posts: 133
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I just finished making the links and got it back together and ran it around the yard and also through my wife's rock garden (sorry Katie!). I am amazed at the difference. All of the slop is gone, and it seems like the 4 link helps keep the tires planted a little better, not to mention the extra weight of my new steel links. I went ahead an made the uppers a little longer to re clock the axles, and now the drivelines are safely tucked up above the lower links. The resulting change in caster angle had the unexpected effect of really sharpening the steering up as well. I can't wait to hit the trails and see what it can do now! I used polymer coated brake lines to sleeve the links, so they slide well over obstacles as well as looking great. My total cash outlay was $37 and I have enough rod and brakeline left over to make at least one more full set.
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