12-27-2010, 08:32 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: San Diego
Posts: 272
| SCX10 Tricks and Tips?
Is anyone able to make a thread for the most common upgrades/mods then sticky it? I am sure it would cut down on us newbs from asking questions and it kinda hard to search for stuff when you don't know what your looking for. Just basic and common things to upgrade and how your doing it. How to 4link? How to improve steering? Ect ect ect... |
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12-27-2010, 08:47 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Sarasota, Florida
Posts: 341
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First thing to do would betoo beef up your drive line first, replace the nylon gears with the Robinson Racing Products like the output diff gear and idol gear, then replace the drive shafts, (I use the RC4WD ones) but there's other and cheaper companies that make them that are strong too. Too 4 link it, you need the 4 link truss with some set screw and a 7x20 post to extend the ball joint (the TR and kit come with spares) to the truss. If it's the TR version axial have you covered, it comes with the truss and linkage sets, if you got the kit then these parts will aid you. part numbers: AXA186 AXA1421 That right there is the most important thing to do first if your going to use it on a daily basis along with bashing it and putting strain on it, but hey that's my opinion, after all it's your rig, set it up the way you want it, that's the fun about these things, customizing the way you want it. |
12-27-2010, 09:31 PM | #3 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks
Posts: 1,980
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Add weight on the frame in both the front and back. I did that for my second run and it is better planted and crawls better overall
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12-27-2010, 09:39 PM | #4 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Rsm
Posts: 19
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add weight to the rims not the frame
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12-27-2010, 10:23 PM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Texas
Posts: 102
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12-27-2010, 10:26 PM | #6 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks
Posts: 1,980
| Quote:
i dont know about you but i dont like it bouncing around, looks stupid. In my opinion its more scale to have your weight distribution set by the stuff that is sprung on your truck. ie if your nose light, add weight to simulate an engine and so fourth. The goal in 1:1 wheeling is to decrease unsprung weight, so why would you add unsprung weight to your scaler. i didn't want to start anything im just looking at it from a scale perspective Last edited by gottorque; 12-27-2010 at 10:34 PM. | |
12-28-2010, 09:58 AM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Kennewick, Washington
Posts: 1,382
| In racing this is true but 1:1 rockcrawlers put the biggest heavyist axles they can under our rigs and then add more weight by putting water or lead shot in the tires. Crawling is all about a balance between ground clearance and a low center of gravity.
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12-28-2010, 06:40 PM | #8 |
Tossin' Salad Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Petaluma
Posts: 1,826
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You can always beef up your axle housings with some beef toobs. Casey |
12-28-2010, 07:41 PM | #9 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks
Posts: 1,980
| Thats true. However these arent comp trucks and unless your building a "true scale" comp truck there is no need. Your average weekend warior XJ or taco wouldnt have added weight in its front tires as driving the thing on the street would be a nightmare. to weight the front they have big bumpers, winches and...an engine, which is a significant amount of weight up front. Thats were they get there weight from. Sure they may put the thing on dynatracs and truss the thing solid, but never from putting additional wight in the tires
Last edited by gottorque; 12-28-2010 at 07:51 PM. |
12-29-2010, 12:02 AM | #10 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Camarillo
Posts: 151
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Get a metal servo horn my plastic one lasted about 30 minutes |
12-29-2010, 08:05 AM | #11 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Mooresville
Posts: 72
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Good thread, but can you guys put links to the products you're recommending?
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