Bacon's Hummer H2

[canadianbacon]

Well, figured I might as well put a thread up in this section to keep track of stuff.

It started it's life as a TR Dingo, and I kept it like that for a while:



Then I decided I wanted something different, and since I always liked late 70's early 80's Chevy's (even though I'm a Ford guy) I ordered a body from Proline:



I had to make new links so instead of spending like $50 on a set already made, I spent $25 or so and made my own (not rocket science people...).

So then I decided to paint it, again, I always liked the two tone paint jobs on these older trucks, so I painted it up with one (my first paint job btw, not the best but I was happy with it):






Then, I came upon a good deal on the board here from a fellow member, I traded my Dingo body for his Hummer H2:



And this past weekend (Saturday afternoon and evening) I finally sat down and mounted it onto my SCX10, and I got to say I'm happy with how it looks. I had to make some more custom links (not putting the plastic links back on), had to cut the interior to clear the spur and motor can, and cut some for the top of the rear shock towers to clear:









The Hummer does have the full interior so it weighs quite a bit, along with the battery in the backseat (no other place I could fit it) the rear shocks are a bit lower than the front. Do you think I should get the yellow springs (Firm) for the shocks and increase the fluid weight, or just the springs themselves?

I can't really take it out now, the thing would sink in the snow and the tires suck in snow (already tried with the Silverado lol)


As for running gear, it's nothing spectacular, but it does the job well:

Novak 55T w/ 12t pinion w/ stock spur
Traxxas XL5 Waterproof
Onyx 8.4v 3000 mah pack
Stock Axial steering servo (I don't foresee this lasting very long with the weight of this rig)
Spektrum DX3E
RC4WD Two Face tires

The wheels have 3.75 oz's on each and they are also vented.

Anyways, comments/suggestions are welcome.

[DMANbluesfreak]

Pretty badass. I love the two face tires. You don't see them much, but they stand out when you do.

[BigSki]

I'd tune the shocks by using stiffer tender springs ( the smaller ones), I used SCX-10 shocks on my heavy Willys and once I got the correct springs figured out, the suspension works great.

[canadianbacon]

So going with the yellow firm tender springs would be a good start? I think the ones on there now are the greens.

[VintageCopal]

Hey, how do you like those kevlars? are they good on the rocks?

Nice hummer by the way

[canadianbacon]

Haven't had a chance to run them yet, I only got them on Christmas Eve from the RC4WD giveaway. Only testing has been in snow, and they aren't the best in it lol.

[rod-211]

looking good man.

Can you post a picture of the interior to see the parts you cut out? I have the same body and interior but I still can't get the interior to fit right.

[Sneako]

I'm a few weeks away from picking up a Honcho (first scale RC). I've read the aluminum upgrade is a must...then I saw the price. Would you give me some details on how you did it?

Is it as easy as getting the right size aluminum tubevand cutting to size?

Like I said, the scale thing is all new to me so any help is appreciated.

[inginear]

Originally Posted by Sneako

I've read the aluminum upgrade is a must...then I saw the price. Would you give me some details on how you did it?

here is a thread in the tools and procedure forum all about links:
Anybody make their own links?

[canadianbacon]

Originally Posted by Sneako

I'm a few weeks away from picking up a Honcho (first scale RC). I've read the aluminum upgrade is a must...then I saw the price. Would you give me some details on how you did it?

Is it as easy as getting the right size aluminum tubevand cutting to size?

Like I said, the scale thing is all new to me so any help is appreciated.

Sure thing, the rods ends I use are for the Revo (TRX5347)and the hole is 4mm, so then I went and picked up 5 1ft long threaded rods of 8-32 size, and I got my dad (who's a mechanic) to get me some 1/4" steel fuel line. Also, to save a lot of frustration, get yourself a digital caliper (I got mine for around $15).

Easiest way I found to find the right length I needed was to take off the lower 2 links so that only the upper links were connected, that way you can rotate the axle back and forth (don't worry about the pinion angle at this point, you're just looking for the length you need). Then when the axle was centered in the wheelwell I measured from the mount on the axle to the mount on the skid plate, and that measurement went from eye-to-eye for the link. Then I locked my caliper so the measurement wouldn't move and placed a rod end with the eye centered on the measuring point then I layed down the piece of threaded rod I was going to use to figure out how much of it I had to cut. So I cut the threaded rod down and threaded it into the rod end and test fit it and did the same for the other side and the wheelbase was where I wanted it.

Now for the upper links (I'm using one of the Axial 4link truss' I got with my Dingo, you get 2 of them with it) it's basically the same deal as the lowers, but I made mine around 3/8" shorted to get the pinion angle correct.

Originally Posted by rod-211

looking good man.

Can you post a picture of the interior to see the parts you cut out? I have the same body and interior but I still can't get the interior to fit right.

Thanks man, Yea I can get some pics for you, I'll take some this afternoon. It's not the prettiest cut job, but you can't really see it because the windows are tinted.

[inginear]

i believe you used a set of calipers instead of a micrometer. unless you are building a very small scale crawler.

[canadianbacon]

Originally Posted by inginear

i believe you used a set of calipers instead of a micrometer. unless you are building a very small scale crawler.

One of the 2 lol, yea I always get those 2 mixed up.

[canadianbacon]

Originally Posted by rod-211

looking good man.

Can you post a picture of the interior to see the parts you cut out? I have the same body and interior but I still can't get the interior to fit right.

Ok, as promised, here are some pics for ya.

1st, an overall shot of the interior:



Then we move to where I had to cut to clear the spur (don't mind the mess of the cuts, it'll be taking care of that shortly):



Then to the back where I cut out part of the floor to clear the top of the shock towers so it could sit lower:



And that's pretty much it on how to mount it, you just have to measure where you need to cut and then get to it.


Some other shots I have include the overall chassis layout:



A whole bunch of stuff there eh?


New links:



How the body is actually mounted to the chassis. I didn't want any body posts showing on this so I had to come up with a way to hide them. So what I did was looked around on the site here for ideas and came up with this.

Here's the mounts on the chassis:



(The back is the exact same, so no need for a duplicate pic)

And on to where the body posts actually are.

In front:



There's a brace behind the grille of this body, so what I did was take the other mount that came with my TR (AX80031, http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ax80031.htm) and cut the posts off where the holes are and drilled 2 holes in it to mount to the brace.

In back:



Basically just holes drilled into the floor and body posts which are held in place inside the body with body clips (foam is just there to make the fit tighter). It's a pain to attach it, but seems to be secure enough.

And just for no reason at all, here's shots of the pinion angles I currently have.

Rear:



And the front:

[Sneako]

Originally Posted by inginear

here is a thread in the tools and procedure forum all about links:
Anybody make their own links?

Originally Posted by canadianbacon12

Sure thing, the rods ends I use are for the Revo (TRX5347)and the hole is 4mm, so then I went and picked up 5 1ft long threaded rods of 8-32 size, and I got my dad (who's a mechanic) to get me some 1/4" steel fuel line. Also, to save a lot of frustration, get yourself a digital caliper (I got mine for around $15).

Easiest way I found to find the right length I needed was to take off the lower 2 links so that only the upper links were connected, that way you can rotate the axle back and forth (don't worry about the pinion angle at this point, you're just looking for the length you need). Then when the axle was centered in the wheelwell I measured from the mount on the axle to the mount on the skid plate, and that measurement went from eye-to-eye for the link. Then I locked my caliper so the measurement wouldn't move and placed a rod end with the eye centered on the measuring point then I layed down the piece of threaded rod I was going to use to figure out how much of it I had to cut. So I cut the threaded rod down and threaded it into the rod end and test fit it and did the same for the other side and the wheelbase was where I wanted it.

Now for the upper links (I'm using one of the Axial 4link truss' I got with my Dingo, you get 2 of them with it) it's basically the same deal as the lowers, but I made mine around 3/8" shorted to get the pinion angle correct.



Thanks man, Yea I can get some pics for you, I'll take some this afternoon. It's not the prettiest cut job, but you can't really see it because the windows are tinted.

Thanks for the info guys. I plan on running it stock for a bit then making some changes.

[rod-211]

Awesome thanks for the pictures. I borrowed my friend's Dremel so later tonight I'm gonna work on trying to fit the interior.

[canadianbacon]

Not much of an update but I did take my axles and transmission apart yesterday to inspect for damage and also to regrease them, and was actually surprised by how little grease was actually in there. The gears were still sticky but there was barely anything in there, so I just used some green wheel bearing grease and coated the ring gears with it, and while I was in there I also cleaned up the bearings as well (which still spin pretty decently).

Next, I took the transmission out then opened the case and took the gears out and inspected them then coated them with wheel bearing grease as well then closed it up and put it back in. I probably should have done this sooner (I've had the truck for a year and a half or so and this is the 1st time relubing the gears) but everything was working fine. I have a ton of wheel bearing grease left so I should be set for a while.

[kincer]

Thanks for the pics as well, now I know I will be tinting the windows because there is no way my interior is gonna fit with my Summit trans. lol!

[canadianbacon]

Originally Posted by kincer

Thanks for the pics as well, now I know I will be tinting the windows because there is no way my interior is gonna fit with my Summit trans. lol!

lol, I highly doubt that too, the only way I see one fitting in there is either hack the crap out of the interior, or make a drop skid.

[canadianbacon]

Not much of an update I know, but I might as well put a few new pics up. I went out today with it for the 1st time this year, and so far I'm loving these Two Faces. I swapped out the stock foams for Proline Memory foams from my Flat Irons and it really woke the tires up, also the weight of this thing keeps them planted as well.





And balanced on the rear bumper:

[Krawler Konceptz]

Lookin' might fine