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05-31-2011, 04:46 AM | #1 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
| Tim.V's axial scx10 honcho
Hi, i'me new here. So, i will introduce me first. My name is Tim, i live in Belgium, very near to the big city Antwerp. I bout this kit almost 3 months ago. I LOVE this car, its amazing what it can do. Ok, lets start with the electronics i use. The transmitter: The ESC: The motor: (2X27turn) The servo: (20kg/cm) The energy source: 2S BIONIC lipo, 4000mAh for a ride of 2 to 6 hours. Depending of your driving style. |
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05-31-2011, 04:55 AM | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Then i started to build this car. I spread the build over 5 days. This post is what i did in the first day. When my kit arrived, i needed to empty the box: Starting on the first page of the manual: The first thing i noticed whas that it had a few things that needed to improve. In the manual there stand grease on the pictured tube, on the real tube not. Going further with the front axle: The rear axle is the same except the 2 sides. No picture from this. End of day 1. Last edited by Tim.V; 05-31-2011 at 05:13 AM. |
05-31-2011, 05:02 AM | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Day 2: Links and the drive shaft on the axles: Now i started with the suspention: Filling the shocks: Finishing the shocks: Mounting the shocks on the axles: Building the reductionunit with the motor: Last hand on the front axle, i didn't mount the servo yet, i do that when the servo go's to its neutral position when i connect the electronics: Last thing i did on day 3, starting whit the chassis, here is a hint, mount first 1 steel chassisbar until all is mounted then the other-one, on this image i positioned the other bar against this, so it looks better End of day 2. |
05-31-2011, 05:10 AM | #4 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Day 3: Ok, i mounted the servo, but did not connect it with the steering system. Now the axle look a lot better: An almost finished chassis: Mounted the axles and the rest on the chassis: (sorry for the bad pictures, but the battery of the camera was almost empty) Batterytray mounted: The tires: Finished! I cut the body out: Ready, it needs now only a paintjob |
05-31-2011, 05:13 AM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Day 4, No building, bu i couldn't resist to drive. Here some images: Dam, this hurts, i flipt my car, here is the damage: Don't worry, its only the protective film that is damaged. |
05-31-2011, 05:18 AM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Day 5 I remove the black rubber shock stops, now i have much more flex I see now that my front tires hit the body when i reach maximum flex, here are some image's: 4 wheels make contact 3 wheels make contact, right rear wheel is hanging about 1 centimeter above the ground. Here my front tire hit the body: Finally i have my paint, so i go to work: The complete car: |
05-31-2011, 05:19 AM | #7 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Here you see that i remove the black rubber peace from the shocks: |
05-31-2011, 05:22 AM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Then in the first month i had some stupid ideas to make much more flex, but it does not drive better. In fact, it drives not good then, it sucks. When you go sideways you flip over much faster. Here is a pic, flex is 165milimetres. More pics: |
05-31-2011, 05:27 AM | #9 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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After that first system, i finded another one out. The car flips over a bit less, but still to fast. Flex is now 160 milimetres: If i go more sideway then this, i flip over: But whit this system i could make a nice picture I like |
05-31-2011, 05:30 AM | #10 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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For changing the center of gravity, i repositioned my battery. Here is the original place like in all honcho's: Here is the new location, the battery is now around 40 milimetres lower then original. |
05-31-2011, 05:32 AM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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This is a video of my car like above in action on a home made trial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkWVCNzVezQ I hope you all like it |
05-31-2011, 05:34 AM | #12 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Then i read on different forums buildingtreads about scale cars, and i liked it, so i will get rid of that much flex and start scaling up my car. But first, i wanted new tires Moab 2.2 tires form proline. |
05-31-2011, 05:38 AM | #13 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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First thing i made for my scale car, is a licens plate, otherwise it may not go on public roads This is the new european belgiums licensplate. Only the 1 and the 0 are original, T,I,M and the 9 i made myself. I wanted to print this, but to bad, the blue color runes out... For being scale it needs to be exactly 5.2 cm, and? YES its right |
05-31-2011, 05:50 AM | #14 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Now i finded out that my rear axle could turn to much in the direction of the wheels, the point where the 3th link is mounted on my axle had to many movement. Not good, so i broke my head to make a custum 4 link with only the parts from the kit, ok, i could not do that, i needed an M3 wire bar and an 4mm hollow bar. But this will cost les then 1 euro. This is what it looks like: And so i will use it: To make my 2.2 tires fit better with my body, i bring up the front axle a little bit more to the front. This is my operationroom: Here i bringt up my front axle 15milimetres. I used the rear 3 link to fit on the front. Reuse the front 3 link to make a custum 4 link in the back. Then i figer out the 4link for the rear. First you do is the little bit shorter 2 underlinks make longer by change the straight rodends by an elbowrodend: Where you removed the 3link connection from the axle you fit 2 special rodends on: Take a small peace of you custum link to extend the 2 little peaces from the Y-link. You need to make an elbow in it, otherwise your axle travel is limited by hitting the 2 upperliks against the 2 lowerlinks: The maximum sideways travel of my 4 link, its more then i gonne use on my scaler: |
05-31-2011, 05:52 AM | #15 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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My next step is to relocate my servo into the chassis. But i want it not upside down, i want it horizontal, who has pictures of it? And how and where to connect the panharbar? Also next week i will have my new shocks. Then i get rid of all that stupid mounting not on the right position. Thanks Tim Last edited by Tim.V; 05-31-2011 at 05:55 AM. |
06-02-2011, 03:44 AM | #16 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Ok people, doesn't matter how it hangs. Please help me, i don't know how it needs to be done. |
06-02-2011, 08:07 AM | #17 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Upper Peninsula, MI
Posts: 64
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I used this kit, it mounts the servo in the horizontal like you want. I used some other spacers to add more clearance, and also added spacers under the steering link to allow full steering throw and reduce bumpsteer. http://cgi.ebay.com/CMS-CHASSIS-MOUN...item1c1b4b759e I used their steering link too: http://cgi.ebay.com/STEERING-LINK-AX...item1c1a953ee7 |
06-02-2011, 08:12 AM | #18 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Thanks. But i don't like buying stuff I prefer to make it on my own. As a student i don't have much monney Maybe i will position it vertical... I'll see what i can do this Monday or Tuesday. |
06-02-2011, 10:55 AM | #19 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Upper Peninsula, MI
Posts: 64
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Well you can take a look at that mount and make something similar pretty easily. It's just some aluminum plate with some holes and slots drilled, along with a few spacers. Vertical or horizontal, the requirements are simple: attach to the servo, and attach to the chassis. It's getting the spacing and angles right that will take some thought, to keep full suspension travel without binding, bumpsteer, etc. Last night I was playing around with my servo mounting setup and experimented with 3-4 variations until I found one that worked the best. Last edited by simplechamp; 06-02-2011 at 10:59 AM. |
06-02-2011, 11:04 AM | #20 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2011 Location: Antwerp Belgium
Posts: 109
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Watch my own custum 4 link, did you think that i did that in the first time right? No, i needed to make 3 different lengths before i found the right one. Do you have some pics of it? It would help me a lot |
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