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Thread: Honcho Build

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Old 06-09-2011, 01:25 PM   #1
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 539
Talking Honcho Build

This is an upgraded Honcho...

Rig's achievements:
  • 2nd place NIRC G6 07/24/2010
  • 3rd place NIRC TTC 08/28/2010

Parts breakdown:
  • SCX10 Honcho kit (AXI90014)
  • Axial Comp Shocks (AXI30224) using the smallest rod end; running black springs but with the purple spring on the right rear (AXI30224) for TT. Running 30wt oil, medium pistons, but think I may need to rebleed them as they get really stiff when nearly fully compressed.
  • Front Axle
    • Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set - 36T/14T (AX30401)
      Gunner tubes
    • Axial aluminum knuckles (haven't tried the high clearance as I'm running the Hands Bros CMS)
    • Hands Bros CMS front-end with panhard bar.
      • Built to Hands Bros CMS spec except for the draglink, see below.
    • Axial CVD axles (AXI30464)
    • Gunner pins for the CVD and for the hexes
    • Not sure the deal, but I had to add two 2mm spacers to either end of the draglink as otherwise I had a lot of toe-in, much more than 2 degrees.
      • May elect to get some threaded rod to replace (AX30441) as the drag-link that way I can route it around the pumpkin, also make it a bit longer to give 1 or 2 degree of toe-out; don't need stability for high-speed passes, will give better turning.
  • Rear Axle
    • Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set 43T/13T (#AX30402)
    • Gunner tubes
    • Axial Alumimum Rear Lock Outs (AXI30494)
    • Gunner pins for the hexes
    • R2J 4-link truss (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...t=4-link+scx10)
      • Used two 106mm (AX30441); used standard rod ends to attach to 4-link truss, but added a 2mm spacer to extend the wheelbase slightly and to get better drive train clearance
      • Used two 98mm (AX3051 pipes for the upper links; used the bended rod ends to attach to frame and standard rod ends to attach to 4-link truss.
  • Chassis
  • Gearbox
  • Wheels/Tires
    • VP SX1 1.9 rims, Pit Bull Rock Beast 1.9
  • Electronics
    • Savox SC-1256TG servo
    • Holmes Hobbies BR-XL (waterproof)
    • Holmes Hobbies 30T TorqueMaster
    • Spektrum SR3001 receiver
    • Various Elite, Sky and TrueRC batteries
    • Created some lexan (0.06 thick) plates for mounting batteries and ESC (it's waterproof) on the side skids.
  • Accessories
    • Pro-Line Scale Accessory Asst #1 Cooler w/Cvr Gas Can (604000)
      • Only used the gas can.
    • Hobby Gear 1/10 Scale Bungee Cords (1510
    • Hobby Gear 1/10 Scale Axe, Jack, Cooler (15103)
      • Only used the jack.
    • Fire extinguisher (forgot where I got it from)
    • Homemade 12" tow-rope
      • Made out of some shoe laces. Looped the ends and sewed them together and tacked with CA before shrink wrapping.
  • Next steps
    • Create some climbing boards; was thinking of creating these out of a piece of lexan with some heavy grit sandpaper, in black, glued to the top for traction.

From the side.



From the rear [it's missing the tire, because I managed to lose the tire mount part and have to order it :(]



Another shot from the rear, you can sorta see the suspension limiting strap.



From the front. Thats a RC4WD bumper and winch.



Bit better shot of the bumper and winch.


Last edited by thzero; 11-01-2011 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:04 PM   #2
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Really nice build!
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:46 PM   #3
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Looks great, nice write up. You can run the high clearance knuckles if you want with the CMS, just connect the drag link so it is attached to your knuckle arms like this:



It does mess up the geometry a bit, but I really don't notice any bump steer and I get a lot more steering now.



Also you can use the stock drag link you just have to shave the axle's pumpkin (there is quit a bit of material in that area).




.
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:10 PM   #4
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Dang zero, it's looking sharp!
You're ready for the comp, I still need to install my beef tubes and winch controller.
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:01 PM   #5
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Looking good. Keep up the good work!
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:21 PM   #6
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Cool, thanks for the tips jlsandkes... I'll give the shave option a try and see how it works.

And yeah Johnny, I think other than finishing up a few electronics things, it should be ready for Sunday... thats the plan anyways!
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Old 06-09-2011, 05:03 PM   #7
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Also, it looks like you enjoy adding scale details to your truck (your bed looks great). You may want to pickup one of these and cut it to fit your truck:

http://prolineracing.com/bodies/pl-c-interior/

It is really easy to do and clears the transmission without any modification. I don’t want to post more pictures in your thread, but check my build if you want to see how it looks.



.
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Old 06-23-2011, 06:48 AM   #8
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To help get a bit more throw from the steering, since I'm running standard style knuckles ATM (mostly due to the CMS), I took some advice and ground down the areas of the pumpkin where the steering rod was binding.

Here's a shot of where I ground it down; really need one without the rod in the way but I was lazy.



And another set showing the additional throw. Pretty much the knuckles come really close to hitting the c-hubs when at full extension.



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Old 08-31-2011, 11:16 AM   #9
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Some shots from the NIRC TTC comp in which the rig (more so than the driver) finished 3rd.





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Old 08-31-2011, 02:25 PM   #10
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Nice build. Cool colour.
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Old 10-13-2011, 08:47 AM   #11
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Awesome rig! Hey the MIP driveshaft you got, I got a question. With the longer wheelbase on the scx10 honcho you have to go with the ax10 shafts? I want to get MIP but not sure which ones to get cause they don't say if its for the shorter wheelbase scx10 or the longer wheelbase MIP Spline Center CVD Kit (SCX10) [MIP10145] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies I think at least one of these will be to short. But I'm not sure.
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:32 AM   #12
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nice rig zero, i like it better with the SAWS on there. if you need some extra room since you got the Wraith you can store your scx at my house
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:08 PM   #13
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Nice build i must say
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:55 AM   #14
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I love that color, it looks really nice on your rig! What kind of rod ends are you using on your drag link? Instead of using the straight ones, I used the ones with a slight angle that would go on the lower links connected to the chassis plate. I got a few more mm of clearence and even at full tilt, does not bind on the pumpkin. I used the ones on the upper left corner of this picture.

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Old 02-16-2012, 10:24 AM   #15
Scale Detail Engineering
 
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Default Re: Honcho Build

What ever happened to this?
You need to get it out on the trail again!
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:21 AM   #16
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Default Re: Honcho Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyh66 View Post
What ever happened to this?
You need to get it out on the trail again!
It was at Foster... but only Saydee had another Class 2. Not to mention it took us all day for the Class 3s!
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thzero View Post
only Saydee had another Class 2.
I hope to join in on that fun asap!
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Old 02-16-2012, 12:12 PM   #18
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Default Re: Honcho Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyh66 View Post
I hope to join in on that fun asap!
We'd have needed another course though, not sure the Class 2s would have made it.
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