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Thread: Popping sound with Slipper Clutch!

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Old 12-04-2011, 06:29 PM   #1
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Default Popping sound with Slipper Clutch!

I was wondering if any of you guys have experianced a popping noise in the motor or slipper clutch. I'm having this problem when a wheel is wedged between something or when i hold a wheel and pull the throttle and I don't know if it is the motor or slipper clutch. So if you guys know where the problem is, or know how to fix it just let me know.


Motor: Integy 35t
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:37 PM   #2
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Could be a gear inside the transmission has a tooth or 2 broke off it.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:50 PM   #3
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I thought that was the problem so I check the gears in the transmission. All 3 gears had no broken teeth, but there was no grease so I put some in.
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:23 PM   #4
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OK re check your adjustment for the motor to the spur gear. IF its set far enough under a bind it will give it the popping sound because its not set at the right point of contact
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:41 PM   #5
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Should the pinion be right up against the spur?
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:58 PM   #6
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Not rite against it. Use a small piece of paper to set your gear mesh. Slide it between the gears when you tighten it down then take the paper out and you gear mesh should be set
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:00 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by raiders32 View Post
Should the pinion be right up against the spur?

Not completely. To alleviate bind there is an easy trick. take a plastic bag that some of the parts come in. One layer of it is fine. If you do not have any left then something like a ziploc sammich bag is good. Place it between the spur and pinion when you go to tighten the motor down. It will leave enough gap but keep it tight enough.

Too tight causes a strain on the gears and motor. Too lose will make the gears strip out easily (usually the spur which is the large external one on the trans).
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:02 PM   #8
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Thanks guys! I'll give that a try. How tight should the slipper clutch be?

Last edited by raiders32; 12-04-2011 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:20 PM   #9
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It is tough to get it right (slipper). You want it to only give when the tires are badly bound. I think about 1/2 turn out from all the way in is what worked for mine. But different amounts of motor power or things like tire size and weight can affect the strain on the slipper. More power or heavier wheels, etc place more drivetrain strain and will make the slipper slip sooner. If you run in water and mud, the slipper will become locked before very long anyhow. I have 3 SCX10's and two of them have slippers. but neither of the slippers slip any more. I can;t keep away from mud and water on my runs. More maintenance but worth it. I do not care for the slipper anyway. All of mine run all metal gears and MIP shafts (except one) and hold up pretty well. So I do not really need the slipper. The one with plastic (Traxxas, which are much better then axial) shafts is on the smaller tire rig.
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:38 AM   #10
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How do you know if the slipper is working. Can you hear it? If so, what does it sound like?
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raiders32 View Post
How do you know if the slipper is working. Can you hear it? If so, what does it sound like?
the motor spins, the truck doesnt move. if the truck will move no matter the resistance on it, its too tight. you want it just loose enough that the motor wont break things, it will slip first.
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:37 PM   #12
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take a look at your spur gear and check for obstructions wedged in the valleys of each tooth. i had a mysterious popping/clicking sound coming from my crawler and after finding no broken gears inside the trans, started inspecting the teeth of each gear individually. i found debris that I'm assuming is plastic/delrin dust that "wore off" of the gears as they got broken in, combined with misc dust that gets trapped between. the tight mesh of motor and spur gears may have been tight enough to "cram" it into the crotch of each tooth and with heat of running it for a while, heated it up enough to somewhat fuse the debris in there - making a nice bump that had to get cleaned/chipped out. I took a razor blade and cleaned out each tooth of the gears - now the sound is gone and my gears are happy
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:24 PM   #13
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Mine started clicking after about an hour, and by chance I was upgrading to the junfac drive shafts which once fitted the clicking stopped so it must have been a loose drive shaft connection.

(I thought i had a broken pin on the axles not knowing whats inside yet) as my sound seemed prior to emanate near the wheel hex's but clearly didn't.
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:42 PM   #14
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Hey guys thanks for all your help. I checked the gears in the rear axle and both gears are stripped. I'm also going to check the front too.

I was wondering what grease should I use. Also, Im having a little play where the driveshaft attches to the bevel gear shaft on the front and rear axle.

Thanks again!
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:23 PM   #15
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Everyone has thier own lube they like to use. Myself i run marine grease
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:21 PM   #16
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The problem was rounded teeth on the gears in the rear axial. Looking into axial's optional gear ratio set (43/13) to give me more torque. Hoping to get it for Christmas.

What brand of marine grease would you guys recommend?
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:30 PM   #17
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Any type from yuor local auto parts store will be good. Thats what i use, there are other lubicates people use such as team3six gear lube. awesome stuff
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:55 PM   #18
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I have run everything from what comes with the kit to what is in the grease gun for my 1:1 Jeep. never noticed a difference between any of them. Although I am not a run the rig 10 hours a week person either. For extreme use there may be something that works better. But for the what i would consider average use amounts I think most any grease will do. But I tear my axles down frequently due to running in a lot of water and mud so it gets replenished frequently (probably every 3-5 hours of running).
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