Scx 10 durability?

[raw111]

Hi Guy's i have never had an axial r/c and found one used and am thinking of picking one up. Anything i should definetly check out? What wear's the most? Thanks guys!

[crawlhog]

plastic tranny gears, stock drive shafts

[cluemac]

my tranny has been fine but the stock driveshafts SUCK

[AsILayDying]

I can only speak from my experiences with my 2 rigs (scx10's). The trans gears worked great until I put a lot of power and I then upgraded to a solid one piece Robinson Racing outdrives gear. As well as RR idler gear. I have MIP driveshafts which Re amazing but before , when I was running stock electronics with 2s LiPo I had zero problems with the drive shafts. Just do proper maintenance and go over the rig to make sure everything is tight and working as it should. The axial rigs are amazing for working on as well as durable, I wouldn't say as durable as a Traxxas but damn close. These trucks are great and they can be made into anything really. Just depends on what you want from it.
How much can you pick it up for? Just curious on the deal you are looking at, include what comes with or pics.

[Chi Town]

I have 2 SCX10's and no problems with them.

I have run a 35T hand wound on 3s in both and no issues with the transmission.

Drive shafts area definite. I would buy the kit and not the rtr so you can select your won electronics and you get the aluminum upgrade links.

Next upgrade is the steering knuckles and c's. Stock plastic are weak and will flex more than I like.

Then 4 link the rear.

Then Chassis mount the servo.

Then relocate the battery somewhere lower on the body.

That is a good start at least.

I have a summit transmission in a dinky mount and love it!

[jdacus]

The SCX10 is a very well built and proven crawler. Yes the drive shafts do break every now and then but it wouldnt be a hobby if you didnt have to fix things.

[Slaughter]

Make sure everything spins freely with no clicks or binding. Check the frame rails to make sure they look straight. Everything can be rebuilt or replaced, so there shouldn't be too much to worry about as long as you are getting it for a good price.

[crazee horse]

Definitely get a new set of bearings strip her down and grease her up. You'll find what needs replacing, they're pretty tough all round. Strip your axles they're probably full of shit and grit.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by crawlhog

plastic tranny gears, stock drive shafts

Meh, buy the Axial aluminum driveshaft rings or make your own and the driveshafts are fine even with 45T, 3s, 20/87 gearing, weighted wheels and good tires.

I ran stock tranny gears for several months, but when I replaced the idler with steel RRP, the stocker was getting kinda chewed. Need to buy the RRP hard anodized aluminum final gear.

Oh yeah stock knuckles will break, just buy aluminum for spare and repalce when they break. Mainly the side that servo connects to.

[IceBox84]

The stock transmission out drives snapped on me fairly quick so ( seems like a trend ) I upgraded to a one piece hardened gear with the out drives.

Really have no clue why people have trouble with the stock drive shafts. When I built my kit I used Traxxas hardened steel u joints with the stock Axial drive shafts and rings..... I have never had a single problem with them. Loctite the grub screws and my shafts have never popped off. Also I would recommend putting the drive shafts on in certain way so that the splined part of the drive shaft is closest to the transmission. This way they aren't rubbing on rocks and getting chewed up.

Other than that just replace whatever breaks with an upgraded alloy part. I myself have the kit version so it came with some extra hop up parts that the RTR version doesn't get......my friend purchased the RTR, runs the dog snot out of it and is a very solid forgiving rig.

[Zeus.:God]

Originally Posted by IceBox84

Really have no clue why people have trouble with the stock drive shafts. When I built my kit I used Traxxas hardened steel u joints with the stock Axial drive shafts and rings.....

One thing I noticed when putting together my SCX10 was that the yokes go over the input/output of the axles and tranny and the only thing keeping them from spinning free on them is the set screw. If I recall, the steel yokes I put on my Stampede had the circular shape with the 2 flat sides (_) formed into them rather than just being round. Are the yokes what you're talking about?

[raw111]

Thanks for all the help i will be checking it out next month hopefully purchasing!

[IceBox84]

Originally Posted by Zeus.:God

One thing I noticed when putting together my SCX10 was that the yokes go over the input/output of the axles and tranny and the only thing keeping them from spinning free on them is the set screw. If I recall, the steel yokes I put on my Stampede had the circular shape with the 2 flat sides (_) formed into them rather than just being round. Are the yokes what you're talking about?

Traxxas 4628X are the yokes I use and they are round. No flat spots, I just used a good amount of Blue Loctite on the grub screws. Also I used two grub screws at each input and output. Seems like it puts more holding force on the input/outputs......but I should have used stainless steel grubs because its going to be a PITA to get em off.

[Zeus.:God]

Originally Posted by IceBox84

Traxxas 4628X are the yokes I use and they are round. No flat spots, I just used a good amount of Blue Loctite on the grub screws. Also I used two grub screws at each input and output. Seems like it puts more holding force on the input/outputs......but I should have used stainless steel grubs because its going to be a PITA to get em off.

Maybe I had an old set or I was just thing of the plastic stockers. And thats an idea... I dont believe I had enough to do the dual set screws so I just followed the manual. With some old left over eletronics I managed to pop the front shaft off the tranny output. Another thing I dont like is just the amount of play in this setup. Those set screws really should only be to hold the yokes on, not lock them to the shaft.