01-05-2012, 05:30 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Waterford
Posts: 266
| SCX10 strengthening
Ok so i have gotten my scx10 used but was mostly stock. So what i really want to do is pretty simple i just want it to be sturdy and have plenty of articualtion. I do not know where to start on beefing up the drivetrain to make it stronger. I want real life experience with this from what was the first peice you broke and the replacement of it. The way i see it would be the driveshafts first? Then the gears? I plan on the aluminum upgrades for the steering components. i just want to know what i should start first. The electronics are all good i waterproofed pretty much all of them completely i will finish them when i get the dialectric grease. Thanks guys this will help the build a lot. |
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01-05-2012, 05:35 PM | #2 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Victoria, B.C. Canada
Posts: 5
| Re: SCX10 strengthening
Drive the crap out of it and fix what breaks! The first thing I upgraded on mine was the steering linkage... changed it all to aluminum links and upgraded the servo arm, then after that I changed the front C's and Knuckles and thats all I really plan on changing. You will be seriously surprised at how well these things do out of the box. Mine completely blew my expectations away. |
01-05-2012, 05:53 PM | #3 |
Scale Detail Engineering Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Turtle Island
Posts: 5,573
| Re: SCX10 strengthening
If you click the link in my sig, Build 3 - SCX10 Monster Beetle, I pretty much did exactly what your asking. Welcome to the addiction!
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01-05-2012, 05:56 PM | #4 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Birmingham
Posts: 102
| Re: SCX10 strengthening
I upgraded links first on mine because the plastic ones would just bend on me. Typically the driveshaft or idler gear breaks first. I wouldn't replace either until they break though bc the stock ones do fine for a while but if you have the $$$$ go for it! If it was me I would upgrade links and aluminum servo horn (arm) first then aluminum knuckles (which was the first thing to break on mine). From there you could go any direction you want or wait until stuff breaks. Here are my upgrades I've done and mine climbs pretty well.... aluminum links, servo horn, & knuckles Robinson racing gears MIP cvd softer springs (red) 50T axial motor Plus fun accessories! Take Brodie69 advice and fix things as they break or I say when you have the cash too! |
01-05-2012, 06:06 PM | #5 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Waterford
Posts: 266
| Re: SCX10 strengthening Quote:
The only reason why i had to ask though is because of the snow here in michigan and the crapy winter weather i dont want to take my comp outside and mess it up so i want to get the main things that brake taken care of because i hate the down time of not having one to drive. I think now i will set aside a fund specificly for broken parts instead of saving for a certain set only for something else to brake. | |
01-05-2012, 09:01 PM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: tuscaloosa
Posts: 91
| Re: SCX10 strengthening Robinson Racing Outdrive Diff Lock Gear AX10 Robinson Racing Hard Steel Idler Gear AX10 MIP Spline Set Center CVD Kit (SCX10) this would be a good start it's what broke on me first |
01-05-2012, 10:54 PM | #7 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 533
| Re: SCX10 strengthening
First thing I broke was my servo. Got a cheapo plastic geared one. Broke 2 teeth. Bought a metal geared one and it's been fine
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01-06-2012, 12:55 AM | #8 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Brighton UK
Posts: 1,363
| Re: SCX10 strengthening
Yeh servo horn should changed as a matter of urgency, then I would do the aluminium 4 link, then junfac drive shafts. Beware though the grub screws on the stock shafts can round off sooooooo easily even with top dollar tools, so don't touch em unless you need to!! Or it's an hour with a drill! Remove the bump stops on the shocks too. |
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