Danger Dingo (updated - 3/20/2012 R2 Enclosed Dig Trans Install)

[Optiskate]

I'm kind of new here. I've been around for a bit and mostly just lurked. I've been eyeballing RC Crawlers for awhile. I had a 1:6 Nylint Jeep which lasted about 5 hours total before it was completely beat and destoyed (broke and fixed it many times). Most of my money went into my Jeep any way, so I never got around to buying a crawler. Some how I did manage to save some money for airsoft, but I ended up never playing. So when my buddy bought an AX-10 and got me hooked, I sold off most of my airsoft stuff and bought an SCX-10 kit.

Here are my plans:

SCX-10 kit
4 link Rear
3 link with panhard front
Holmes Hobby BR-XL ESC
Castle Creations BEC
Holmes Hobby Motor (not sure which one yet, More than likely 35-45T)
Either Pitbulls or TSL/SX's (leaning towards Pitbulls)
Savox Servo (which one depends on budget probably have $100 or so for one)
ProLine Titus 1.9 Wheels
Rear Dig

I'm sure lots more stuff will find its way onto the Dingo. As a matter of fact, I'm strongly considering a Trail Ranger body, but I'm not sure yet. I do think the name Danger Ranger sounds better than Danger Dingo though. lol

So far my SCX-10 kit is ordered, but still in the mail. I am waiting very impatiently. I did however go to the local hobby shop with my friend. He was looking for a couple AX-10 parts, which he found, and I managed to pick up these in preparation for the SCX-10 kit.




Now I'm just trying to sell my Airsoft M4 to get a little bit more money to finish things up. The goal was not to spend any actual income on this crawler. I may spend a little bit, but I want to keep the income spending at a minimum. This build might be a little slow for many of you, but I hope you guys can both enjoy it and educate an no skills newb such as myself.

[Optiskate]

Well, I now know why USPS is going the way of the dinosaur. Not that it wasn't obvious, but my kit has sat in the very first sorting facility in Reno for 4 actual work days. Really.... *sigh* Granted, I know today is a holiday, but I didn't count today.

I think I may go out and buy some Pitbulls from the local hobby shop tomorrow. I need some progress as I'm going nuts not having the actual kit here yet. I need to swing by the bank first, which is also closed today obviously. Why does it have to be a holiday? lol

[KarlP]

Ah good luck with your build, i've had mine for a while and finally started doing my own body to give it my own personal touch, it surprised me how much you get into these little things

[Optiskate]

KarlP, it is amazing how much you can put into this stuff. That's what blows me away. After talking to PinchFlat, I think I'm sold on the trail ranger body. I want to pain the lower flat portion of the body either MARPAT or a Digital Multicam and the top half of the cab in Coyote Brown or something along those lines. I'll have to practice quite a bit, but I don't think it will be a problem getting it right if I practice. I also want to cut the crap out of the body and do some tube work, but the investment in the proper tools will kill me time frame wise. So we'll see what happens there. Everything is really up in the air as of this moment seeing as how I still have a ton of stuff to buy and I change my mind as ioften as a teenage girl shoe shopping.

Any way, to the point. I went to the hobby shop this morning. I came home with these...





I only mounted one. I wanted to get wheel weights and seeing as though it took me damn near a half hour to mount just one, I figured I'd wait to mount the rest. Any way, I'm going to order the Pro-Line wheel weights for the Titus rims today. 6oz front 2oz back. With my very limited experience I think the tire and weight combination will make a massive difference in how my crawler will crawl.

Now if only my dingo kit would leave the sorting facility in Reno... urgh...

[PinchFlat]

Right on... how do the Proline wheels hold the bead on the pit bulls?

[The-Blacksheep]

looks great so far those wheels should look good on the dingo body first, and more importantly look great on the ranger body you intent to buy, keep us posted!

[Optiskate]

Originally Posted by PinchFlat

Right on... how do the Proline wheels hold the bead on the pit bulls?

They hold great. There is no way you will lose the outer beat without first destroying the tire itself.

The inner bead is a little bit more loose, but still on there so well that I doubt it will ever come off. In fact it would probably also destroy the tire before you lose a bead. I could pull on it a bit more, but I have faith in the rims and don't want to push it.

All in all, I think once I get the wheel weights I just ordered, then this wheel and tire combo will be a killer winning combination.

[Optiskate]

Originally Posted by The-Blacksheep

looks great so far those wheels should look good on the dingo body first, and more importantly look great on the ranger body you intent to buy, keep us posted!

Well, little update. I ordered my wheel weights and I did some snooping around and found out the place had some Trail Ranger bodies in stock. So I bought one of those as well. I suppose I'll cut up and paint the Dingo body for practice. Then I should be good and ready for the Trail Ranger body.

I'm still waiting on the SCX-10 kit. It is still in the same place. I'm also waiting for Holmes Hobbies to get their ESC's and motors back in stock. I still need to sell my airsoft gun as well. Everything else sold minus my darn gun. Its one of those every body wants it, but no one has the money sort of deals. Until it sell, as much as I don't want to, I'll probably just draw a little from the old checking account. Thank god my wife and I have separate accounts....

[Optiskate]

I did some searching and I think I found myself a Torque Master BR-XL. Not sure yet, but it would be nice. I am 100% set on running one based on what I heard.

I have a question for all the people in the know. My past crawler experience is limited to a 1:6 Nylint and some time on an AX-10. This AX-10 is what I'll be using to benchmark performance as its the most relevant experience I have. Servo wise, I have no idea what the stock AX-10 servo is rated at. Does any one have any ideas? Granted I am running 1.9's, not 2.2's, but I was just curious as to how much servo I was going to want/need. Granted I'm sure I could get away with a $40 servo, but would I be more happy with a bigger one? Probably, but I have no real perspective as far as servo's go. Can any one provide some specs to help me gain some perspective.

This is what I was thinking of getting.

Savox SC-1256TG High Torque Titanium Gear Digital Servo .15/277

This is another more cheap option.

Savox SC-0251 High Torque Metal Gear Digital Servo .18/222

[Optiskate]

I managed to get my hands on an HH BR-XL. Waterproofed of course. It should be in the mail shortly. It was kind of hard to find a place that had them in stock.

I found a killer deal on a Savox SC-1256TG. If its still on sale next week I'll dig deal, bite the bullet, and reluctantly pull a little money out of my bank account to snag it. I have a hard time passing up a good deal, even if it breaks me.


I know you guys would rather see pics and progress than me being indecisive as far as what I should run.... The good news, my kit showed up in the mail. I'll start some minor assembly with some pics shortly.

[Optiskate]

I've got a question about the kit. It came with the 4 link trusses, but do they supply the screws to tie them into the axle tubes? I didn't see them if they were there.

I have progress pics, but I only got as far as getting both axles put together. I will post pics later after the kids go to bed.

[steve_o]

Hi Brad!
In reading your question above, I can only say trust the directions, and what's in the box.
I got my Dingo about 5 days ago, so I'm a few steps ahead of you. This is the first model I've ever built - but every time I think "they've left something out", or "mine is just a little off", I step back, study the manual, and realize it's me!
Seems like the packaging of the hardware could be better (or better labeled). This morning I was sure I'd been shorted two screws. Nope. The remaining screws were in a different package.
So much more fun building it than I thought it would be! Loving it! Good luck with your build!


Steve

1:1 Toyota FJ Cruiser

1:10 SCX10 Dingo (step 20)

[Optiskate]

Originally Posted by steve_o

Hi Brad!
In reading your question above, I can only say trust the directions, and what's in the box.
I got my Dingo about 5 days ago, so I'm a few steps ahead of you. This is the first model I've ever built - but every time I think "they've left something out", or "mine is just a little off", I step back, study the manual, and realize it's me!
Seems like the packaging of the hardware could be better (or better labeled). This morning I was sure I'd been shorted two screws. Nope. The remaining screws were in a different package.
So much more fun building it than I thought it would be! Loving it! Good luck with your build!


Steve

1:1 Toyota FJ Cruiser

1:10 SCX10 Dingo (step 20)

I agree 100%. It is so much more fun building it. I'll probably enjoy building it more than driving it and thus the sickness begins.... my wife would kill me if I up and decided to build another right away.


I know what you mean as far a trust the directions. I some time have a hard time following them to a T because of previous occupational training. I'll some times do what I think is most efficient. For example, I built both axles at the same time rather than one at a time. I didn't even look ahead at the instructions, I just went ahead and did what looked right based on the first axle instructions and what I've seen on the internet.

I did find some errors in the instructions. There has always been the right amount of parts thus far, but on a few occasions the parts have been in the wrong bag. Like the Lettering was mixed up between the bag with shock parts and the bag with drive shaft parts. I figured it out in about 30 seconds though.

My biggest issue was with not having the screws for the 4 link truss. The truss is referenced no where in the instructions as far as I could find. I could be totally blind, but I did not see it. I didn't want to pirate any screws from any where else to bolt it on until after I've assembled the chassis. The Chassis has the proper screws, but I don't want to pirate them if I'm going to need them. Hopefully theres like, 4 left overs. lol

I'm going to post progress pics, but things didn't go as planned last night.... My daughter was awake every hour on the hour. I didn't get to sleep until 5:45am this morning. I basically got a power nap... so pics are coming, I promise!

[Optiskate]

Progress. What we all like to see. I know this stuff is nothing new or exciting for you veteran RC Crawlers, but its all I've got for now. Bear with me, the good stuff is still to come.

Apparently my adventure begins here....











I've learned a few things from this whole process thus far. One thing I've learned is that hex drivers would have been really nice. I just have allen wrenches and they can get to be murder on the fingers. An Exacto knife would have been awesome as well. I'm decently equipped to work on real cars, but almost none of that is helpful on RC stuff. I grabbed everything that I thought might be useful. The screw drivers can go back to the garage... I have a set of ignition wrenches, which would work perfect for the tiny little nuts, I forgot that I had them and I'll be busting them out when I start working on it again.



And my most favorite tool I own is... my box cutter. My favorite and most used feature.... the bottle opener... hell yeah!



Perhaps I use it too much.

One other thing that I noticed that might help a lot of first timers like myself, don't over tighten the axle housing bolts in the diff area. You wont get a proper mesh in the gears. They will be way too tight and not spin as freely as they should. I make it a habit to check all things that rotate, spin, move, ect to make sure that they're moving how they should. If I didn't, I never would have caught this issue. Of course, I'm sure the vets already know this, but if you haven't built one yet, then its something to look out for.

Any way, that's all for now... lots more to come.

[steve_o]

Looks like our progress is almost at the same place! Gonna start with the frame in the morning. You were exactly right on "parts in the wrong bag" comment. What I ended up doing was to neatly line up ALL the hardware - one big line of tiny stacks of nuts, bolts, screws. I haven't worked with the truss yet - had to do a search just to see what you were talking about - but found this link. Don't know if it will help or not.
Sounds like you either have a very small little girl - or a sick one. Hope all is well! My daughter is 4; she likes sitting on my workbench watching me. Makes the whole process even more enjoyable!
P.S. Go get some hex drivers - you're gonna need em!

Brandon’s Trail Ranger: Axial’s Scale 4-Link Axle Truss

[Optiskate]

Originally Posted by steve_o

Looks like our progress is almost at the same place! Gonna start with the frame in the morning. You were exactly right on "parts in the wrong bag" comment. What I ended up doing was to neatly line up ALL the hardware - one big line of tiny stacks of nuts, bolts, screws. I haven't worked with the truss yet - had to do a search just to see what you were talking about - but found this link. Don't know if it will help or not.
Sounds like you either have a very small little girl - or a sick one. Hope all is well! My daughter is 4; she likes sitting on my workbench watching me. Makes the whole process even more enjoyable!
P.S. Go get some hex drivers - you're gonna need em!

Brandon’s Trail Ranger: Axial’s Scale 4-Link Axle Truss

Thanks for the link. So I guess in order to run the 4 link truss you need the full aluminum link upgrade any way. Not just the half upgrade the comes with the kit. I'm going to assume that it didn't come with the screws either. Oh well. Its all good.

I think my daughter is teething some more. Shes 15 months. I'd let her watch me, but she'd be into everything. My 3 year old son would probably do better, but he has a short attention span still. lol I think he gets that from me.

[Optiskate]

A little update. The chassis sits on the suspension/axles now. I discovered some odd things along the way. There are pins for the transmission end of the drive shaft in the bag of chassis hardware. I made the mistake of using them. I discovered shortly after that the one on the motor side rubs the trans. Odd. It is physically too long. All the ones that came with the chassis hardware are longer that one ones that came in the bag of drive shaft hardware by just a tiny bit. So tomorrow I'll have to pull them out and swap them for the two pins out of the drive shaft hardware bag.

The other thing driving me crazy is the shocks. I obviously must have put too much oil in them as they're stiff as hell. If you articulate the suspension, it actually starts to twist the frame. It would just be a roll over machine if I left the shocks like that. I have to fix that as well.

Other than that I'm down to electronics, wheels & tires, bumpers & rock rails, and all the body work. I'll put up some pics tomorrow.

[steve_o]

You are just slightly ahead of me. And remember what I said about "trusting the directions"? I TAKE IT BACK!!! (lol) I'm sure we're scratching our collective heads at the same pictures. BTW - my shocks are the same - crazy stiff; but I'm sure we're not the first on the forum to have questions about them
I haven't picked out my motor/electronics yet. Like you, I need to sell a few more items that have been gathering dust. (to be honest, I didn't think I'd be building it this fast), now I'm scouring the basement, looking for things to sell

Good luck today!

Gonna get after it -
Steve

1:1 Toyota FJ cruiser

1:10 SCX10 Dingo -scattered stages of completion.

[Optiskate]

Originally Posted by steve_o

You are just slightly ahead of me. And remember what I said about "trusting the directions"? I TAKE IT BACK!!! (lol) I'm sure we're scratching our collective heads at the same pictures. BTW - my shocks are the same - crazy stiff; but I'm sure we're not the first on the forum to have questions about them
I haven't picked out my motor/electronics yet. Like you, I need to sell a few more items that have been gathering dust. (to be honest, I didn't think I'd be building it this fast), now I'm scouring the basement, looking for things to sell

Good luck today!

Gonna get after it -
Steve

1:1 Toyota FJ cruiser

1:10 SCX10 Dingo -scattered stages of completion.

Yeah I've learned that it works best to read the directs, use common sense, and go with my gut. There's a lot of places where I deviate from the instructions to some extent.

Did you scratch your head in the transmission section of the instructions? There's a place in there that did not make sense what so ever. Needless to say everything spins freely, has acceptable tolerances, and seems to be fine. It says there's supposed to be a plastic spacer in there. I found no room or place for the mentioned plastic spacer.

I think we both added way too much shock oil. My problem is that with anything less it feels and sounds as though the shock is actually cavitating when I cycle it by hand at a moderate pace. Slowly cycling it still feels a wrong on the upper end of the compression stroke. Its as if there's a lot of air in the shock. Maybe thats the way RC shocks are supposed to be, but I felt uncomfortable with the shock not rebounding properly from full compression when cycling it off of the dingo. Maybe some body can chime in and give us some advice. I'll also look it up later if I have time.

BTW, do you have a build thread?

[steve_o]

Lol! That transmission spacer was gonna be MY example! No way that thing belongs, or is gonna fit there.
Was just at the hobby shop - here's what I was told about the shocks: All the way full. But after you get the initial air bubbles out, fill it to the top, and let it set for a few HOURS with the cap off. And be sure they're fully extended. I dunno - seems reasonable, maybe someone else can chime in....