RCCrawler Forums

Spidernad

Yea, you have to move stuff around untill it clears the interior. I had to heat up (with a heat gun) and push in the right corner of the passenger floor to clear a piece but it's not noticeable.

The droop kit will make lowering easy if your not using the Proline floorpan.

I used this light system, it's basic (on or off) and it's cheep.
Super Bright Scale Light System 2

klampykixx

i know my XJ sits quite low in its suspension, has tons of droop travel tho

Dustinf

Wow thanks.. I've Ben looking all over for a cheap light system like that .. I even checked that site with no luck. Im going to pair that system with a single break light/reverse light unit to get the break and reverse effect.

You really have this all figured out don't you? You seen like an encyclopedia of scaling parts and info. The only thing I have going for me is my modeling background. This is the first time I combine rc and modeling. Its so rewarding.

One problem ... I briefly panicked for a second while cutting wired and moving stuff.. I thought "am I ever going to drive this again?? " I'm scared of breaking something. Mostly the rear view mirrors..

Spidernad

I want to do a better light system including turn signals, brake lights, backup lights, parking lights, but I have to stay with a cheap setup for now till I find some more money. lol, If only I could get a bunch of people to click on my YouTube videos adds I would have enough money to build and post about some really cool stuff. lol

I just have a lot of mechanical experience and love to research things.
I can't wait to see your city model!

lol, You have to break some eggs to make an omelet.
Oh, so you have mirrors? I'm not sure if I am going to put any on unless I can find some that look like the real ones.

BTW, are you from Berlin USA or Germany?

Spidernad

I've been trying to find a three link mount for the front that has zero play. The stock plastic one gets very loose after a short while and most of the metal aftermarket ones are not that good.

After buying a couple different kinds I found this one from 3Racing that bolted together at the ball joint so I was able to take it apart and rework it to make it tighter.

I flipped the silver piece over and hand cut a new socket, making it shallower than the one they had on the other side. Then I used an Axial steel ball pivot, greased it up and it reassembled it and it now has almost zero play.

On the Comanche that I am going to build as a twin to this Cherokee I have a RC4WD chassis mount steering servo kit that I will try out so I can use a 4-Link setup in the front too, as I hate 3-link setups.
https://store.rc4wd.com/-Steering-se...10_p_1419.html

BubbaEinstein

I just installed that cms setup in my Dingo. I really like it. I had to shorten the ..the... (whatever the dam steering arm is called) and it took some tuning in the mounting of the servo but nothing you won't be able to figure out. I built some links and 4 linked the front and it works good and basically no bumpsteer.

Spidernad

Cool, can hardly wait to install mine and four link the front too.

Spidernad

FIRST VIDEO!!!

This is the first test run on the Cherokee with open differentials front and rear (no lockers).

After some trial and error, I have finally got the shocks sorted out so it sits low like a stock Cherokee but still has full suspension travel. The desired result was achieved by using the 100mm RC4WD scale shocks with their 50% softer springs cut and reworked about 40% shorter.

As I expected, the open diffs make it much more challengeing to climb or navigate soft terrain.
It removed the binding when turning and makes the truck ride very smooth.
This test was with small stock tires that are pretty hard and very light (no weight added), and it went better than I imagined it would.
When I put the weighted and no foam RC4WD Mud Thrashers on it should perform even better.

klampykixx

cool vid! its definately interesting to see it have near stock capability

one Q tho, do you think it would be possible to make the rear diff have an amount of limited slip like a 1:1? maybe a fibre washer/shim on each of the spider gears maybe??

because i know my xj has a lsd in it, and pretty sure most in australia do. not sure about US.

reason im so interested in this build, is i plan to do one myself over the next few months once im done with my big scale ford. and ill be going to the effort to get it as realistic as is possible, leaf rear, 2part steering, panhard, divorced coil/shock etc..

keep it up! im watching.

pobrockcrawler

i was surprised by how capable it was and love when it was articulating the wheel in the air was spinning free, very cool.

klampykixx

are you thinking of switching to rear leaf at all?

Nvghostrider

Loving the scale aspect of this build. What's the rig weighing in at? Seems to have similar distribution and movement similar to a 1:1.

Spidernad

I'm pretty sure there would be a way to limit the slip in the diff, I've been thinking about it since you first mentioned it. Maybe as simple as putting a spring on the small side gears shaft between the two gears. I know when I assembled the two diffs one was tight because I reused the old gasket and tightened the four screws a tiny bit much and it was squeezing the big gears against the small ones too much. It would have limited some slip but it was not in a good way as the gears were meshing too tight and probably would have eventually damaged them. I put in a new gasket and it was smooth and free then. Any shims would cause the same problem, but a spring where I mentioned would push the gears away from each other and into the case so it wouldn't affect the gear mesh but might limit the slip. I'll mess around with the next two for the Comanche and let you know if I find an easy method.

Also, many of the 1:1 XJ's in the US have a limited slip in the rear, same as AUS.

I'd like to see how you go with your Cherokee project, it's very ambitious what your planning, I wish you good luck, keep me posted.

Spidernad

Thanks, I was pretty happy with the outcome myself. Still more tweaking to go, and I've started on it's twin Comanche brother too.

Spidernad

Not on this one, I'll leave that one for your build, would be cool though.
I have a full leaf project in the plans for the near future, after I finish the Comanche (and find some more money). It's TOP SECRET though! lol

Spidernad

Thanks, I went ahead and threw it on the scale for you, it's just about 5lbs. now. With the weighted Mud Thrashers it would add about 2 more pounds bringing it to about 7lbs, and adding more weight to the front than rear.

Nvghostrider

Nice. Strange how it's hard to keep adding weight to scalers without making an enormous model. Watching this one happily.

klampykixx

good stuff man, ill be sure to link ya up when i start mine. im trading some services for parts, most of an old HSP(Axial AX) roller as a starting point. already got a set of 1.55 mtz tires, and a few other bits n bobs. and, im getting a drill press soon, and want to turn it into a bit of a mill. so definately got the potential for some fairly accurate scale replicated parts!

xjcralwer7

Man this thing is awesome, you may have just inspired a "very scale" build of my own, everything about it is appealing. But don't worry, i'll try my hardest not to copy you Good work..and did I hear scale comanche?? I'd like to see that

Spidernad

Thanks man!

Don't worry about copying any aspects of this build, remember, "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery".
These threads are for sharing ideas and visions, so I'd be honored if anyone thought enough of my work to use it in there own build.

And yes, I've already started on the Comanche, the twin brother to this Cherokee. Everything I learned in this build will go into that one.