Dingo Chassis with D90 Body???

[Gimpdiggity]

Hi everyone.

I'm planning a build for this late summer/fall and I'd like to get myself a second SCX-10 setup. I really like my Honcho, but my wife has kind of taken it over, so I drive my CC-01s right now...but I'd like to build another truck, and I would like to make it a D90 build.

So, my question is this...

The D90 body that RC4WD sells:
1/10 Land Rover Defender D90 Hard Plastic Body Kit

That body shows itself as having a wheelbase of 11.1" long.

The SCX-10 Dingo shows a wheelbase of 11.4" long.

With this wheelbase being this close, will I really need to adjust anything on the chassis in order for the body to "look right?"

I'm not really that keen on trying to make my own links...I've never done it, and don't really know how to even start going about doing it.

If that wheelbase is a bit off, can anyone give me any ideas of how exactly to shorten the links just a tad bit?? The overall difference in wheelbases is 8mm, so I'm not sure how much I'd need to shorten each link...would it be 8mm?? Or would it be a bit more or less due to the angle of the links??

Any tips or input would be greatly appreciated...and I apologize if this is a question that's been gone over before. I never have any luck using the search here on RCC...it always comes back with every thread that mentions either of the terms I'm using, and when searching SCX-10, that means it doesn't get narrowed down at all...

Thanks.
Jeff

[Mr.Joshua]

The stock links are threaded a little ways into the link (mine were anyway)...you could screw the rod end off and cut the link a "little".
They're pretty easy to make though...you can do it! (and we can help)

Not sure about that body man. Best way to check is to unhook the links from the axle. Move the axle into the position you want it and measure from center of the eye of the rod end to the center if the axle mount.

[Gimpdiggity]

Okay...when making the links shorter, or making my own, would it be best to make ALL of the links, front and back, and adjust the center motor/transmission accordingly, or is it acceptable to make ones just for, say, the back wheels and leave the front and motor mount setups as they are stock??

[jaytet]

to test thread depth, just take the screw holding the link/ball joint together, and screw it in as far as itll go, and mark how deep it penetrates.

for such a small adjustment, it shouldnt be necessary to cut links on all corners. but i personally would shorten the front links, for scale reasons.

[Solitaire]

Originally Posted by Gimpdiggity

The D90 body that RC4WD sells:
1/10 Land Rover Defender D90 Hard Plastic Body Kit

That body shows itself as having a wheelbase of 11.1" long.

The SCX-10 Dingo shows a wheelbase of 11.4" long.

Thanks.
Jeff

Hmmm, not sure where you got 8mm as the difference. I see 3mm
Either way, it wouldn't take much to adjust your links or rod ends to match the body. Try sticking it on and see for yourself how it looks.

The other thing about the Defender D90 body is the smallish wheel wells. If you leave them the stock size (no cutting them out) then you'll have to raise the body slightly to give you wheel clearance. How much depends on which tires you go with.

[Mr.Joshua]

That process to check thread depth won't work...if you had a long enough bolt you could thread it all the way it the other end of the link. If you cut too much off there won't be any threads left to hold the rod end.

It depends on the body as far as which way to adjust the wheelbase. I'd say center between the wheel wells on the center of the skid as a starting place. It still depends on bumpers and rock sliders working best on the body. That's a sweet body too.

Heres a search link, if you search within the scx section it narrows it down for ya
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/searc...archid=5375984

[Gimpdiggity]

Originally Posted by Solitaire

Hmmm, not sure where you got 8mm as the difference. I see 3mm
Either way, it wouldn't take much to adjust your links or rod ends to match the body. Try sticking it on and see for yourself how it looks.

The other thing about the Defender D90 body is the smallish wheel wells. If you leave them the stock size (no cutting them out) then you'll have to raise the body slightly to give you wheel clearance. How much depends on which tires you go with.

Those measurements are in inches...so the .3 inch difference comes out to just about 8 millimeters.

I think the idea of mounting the body before doing anything would probably be best...of course, then I have to build it all and take it back apart if it does NOT look right!!!

I guess that would probably be the best idea, though.

I also see what you mean about the stock wheel wells. They are definitely smaller than what I'm used to, so the body will have to be up a bit...meaning that I may be able to get away with the stock Dingo wheelbase without even really being able to notice.

[Gimpdiggity]

Originally Posted by jaytet

to test thread depth, just take the screw holding the link/ball joint together, and screw it in as far as itll go, and mark how deep it penetrates.

for such a small adjustment, it shouldnt be necessary to cut links on all corners. but i personally would shorten the front links, for scale reasons.

Okay, I see what you're saying. The front links being shorter would be more "real" than the rear links being shorter.

I guess it's just as easy to do either set of them, really.

[Gimpdiggity]

Originally Posted by Mr.Joshua

That process to check thread depth won't work...if you had a long enough bolt you could thread it all the way it the other end of the link. If you cut too much off there won't be any threads left to hold the rod end.

It depends on the body as far as which way to adjust the wheelbase. I'd say center between the wheel wells on the center of the skid as a starting place. It still depends on bumpers and rock sliders working best on the body. That's a sweet body too.

Heres a search link, if you search within the scx section it narrows it down for ya
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/searc...archid=5375984

Thank you for the link. I will look through some of those threads to see what I can find.

I guess, in the worst case scenario, I could always just use the stock body and make a soft top for it...should look pretty cool that way, too.

I was just hoping to have it be as easy as possible...I'm thinking with only a few millimeters needed to be cut from the links, it shouldn't be too difficult for me to do it.

This project is a ways off, though. I've got a vacation coming up that I'll need some money for, an anniversary and the wife's birthday, and another project I'm working on first.

I'm just trying to get some details down, because I was going to start slowly acquiring parts for it over the next couple of months.

[Rook82]

I found it was best for the shorter wheelbase to shorten the rear links. That way all you have to do is worry about the pinion angle. It is easy to adjust the rear pinion angle by taking out spacers, etc on the upper links in the rear. You can do it the same way in the front but there is an issue. In the front as it steers, you have to worry about the caster angle of the hubs. If you raise the the pinion angle of the differential to alleviate driveshaft binding then you really throw off your caster. You could get clockable C hubs to help. It is just hard(er) to get it right in the front when the links get short. Much easier to do on the back suspension. I left my fronts the stock length and mounted the body so the stock front ligned up (tires in the wheelwells). I then made rear links the correct size to get it where it needed to be. You can't shorten the stock axial links enough due to how far in the threads for the rod ends go as others have mentioned. Some shorter links or homemade is the best route. It is inexpensive and very easy to do. And the good thing is you can get it exactly the length it needs to be. Very important with the small wheel wells on the D-90.

You can see the home made links on the rear in this pic and stock 91mm front links.

[Solitaire]

Originally Posted by Gimpdiggity

Those measurements are in inches...so the .3 inch difference comes out to just about 8 millimeters.

I think the idea of mounting the body before doing anything would probably be best...of course, then I have to build it all and take it back apart if it does NOT look right!!!

Yes, my error. Was reading inches and thinking metric.

I say don't actually mount it, just sit it on to see where the mounting spots will be and also check wheelbase. You may not want to use the stock SCX body posts and go with something less obtrusive. Many D90's that I see have mounting screws down low on the body for realism and that also gets away from having 4 large holes cut into the roof and hood.

As far as link lengths go, there are several ways to achieve a desired WB. The Dingo uses 87.5mm links (not including rod ends), so you could get some 85mm to make up some of the difference. You can also get Axial parts trees with different lengths of rod ends. Making up 8mm will not be an issue.

[SpecterXP]

Here is one picture, if you need another from a different angle I can take one later.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...e/DSC_0367.jpg

The axels are the same front and rear, so you can use the same link mount.

[fxman]

I am a new member here and found this old thread, but it is exactly what I was looking for. I am planning on building the same combo (SCX10 and Defender). Going for the kit as well, since I enjoy the build-part. Not sure what kind of motor/ESC I want to use though. I do know, that I want to go really slow!