SCX10 Steering Improvements/Rear Steer

[BajaBobby]

I just took my truck on it's second run/rock crawl. It's an all stock Dingo kit. It did great, very capable truck and tons of fun.

Two questions:
What can I do to get a better steering angle? I know locked diffs and short wheel base are working against the design.

Is rear steer even worth the trouble on this truck? I would rather keep it as scale as possible, but I'm also tired of backing up so much to get the right line.

I believe I have it trimmed out to turn as far as the stock set up will allow it to turn, but I would like to enhance it's turning radius to get more agility on the trail/rocks.

I have a tube frame Clod with rear steer so I understand what some of the disadvantages are there. Just curious if anyone has tried rear steer on a SCX10.

[Gimpdiggity]

Are you using a radio with adjustable end points??

If so, if you can get your hands on some of the Axial CVAs, I believe that they are called "Universal Set," then you can dial in a bit more throw.

I put them on my Honcho, and I was really impressed with the increase in steering I was able to achieve by adjusting my end points.

[Shinjari]

CVDs definitely helped. Also consider high steer zero ackerman knuckles. Also running overdrive gears in front will help turn better as well.

if you wanna get some extreme steering, consider doing the xr10 steering mod. it lets you get over 50 degrees of steering.

How to do the narrow XR10 mod to Axial axles

[BajaBobby]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Yep I have a Spektrum DX3E. I have it tuned where the stock knuckles almost touch the axle on both sides.

I'll shop around for the pieces you guys mentioned.

The steering and drive shafts so far are the things I want to get upgraded for now. After that I think it will be a solid truck.

If those pieces don't do the trick, I might go with the XR10 mod.

Thanks again for the help.

[Mr.Joshua]

Shinjari and Gimp are correct, XR mod for sure.

I installed rear steer on my rig and love it. I've been trying to make mine more of a hard core rock crawler though, so to me rear steer is still "scale" with a little work and planning you can tuck the rear servo up in between the frame rails and hide it pretty well.

I'm also planning on doing the XR mod, which I think is one of the most beneficial mods you can do.

[Tonysmini]

Overdrive gears in the front work, as do the universals and alloy C's and hubs.

I added a washer or two into the steering cross link to give me a little more toe out on the steering, it's helped me with the low speed rock scrabbling.

[BajaBobby]

Great advice guys thanks. Gonna get those parts on order soon.

[BajaBobby]

It took me a while but I got the parts bought and installed.

Here is what I got goin on:
Robitronics Servo Horn (24 tooth for Hitec HS645-MG)
Hot Racing HC Knucks
Axial AX10 Axles.

Here are my results:
It finally turns! With this set up the factory tire come somewhat close to touching the shock springs. I'll need to get a new steering linkage, the factory one collides with the bump in the axle and the left side linkage assembly collides with the c-hub. I had some parts left over from a clod tuber that I built a while back so I bent a linkage to get the clearance I needed until I buy a new one. Suggestions appreciated.

Now I'm starting to look into relocating the servo too. I'm still not clear on what the advantage is there, but that seems to be the trend and it looks more scale that way. I can't wait to give this bad boy a run on the rocks.

One more question...what is better for off road steering, toe in, toe out, or 0?

[AsILayDying]

IMO toe in or 0 works pretty well. Also axle mounted servo works or performs better then chassis mount servo. Front cvd's or universals will help as well. Good luck..... Oh yeah pictures help and we all love pics.

[Duxx]

I bought a used Dingo that had axial aluminum steering links. The tie rod is a straight rod and measures 106mm. It worked fine with the stock knuckles but I've installed the axial high steer and here's my issue.
First it is quite short due to the added distance between the knuckles.
Second, without a bend in the rod it won't connect due to the contact with the diff cover. Before I get to cutting and bending I thought I'd check here first to see what I have missed.

(Not trying to hijack but it was the only thread relative to my issue when I did a search.)

Scale beer cans, now that's the schlitz!

[Mr.Joshua]

Originally Posted by Duxx

I bought a used Dingo that had axial aluminum steering links. The tie rod is a straight rod and measures 106mm. It worked fine with the stock knuckles but I've installed the axial high steer and here's my issue.
First it is quite short due to the added distance between the knuckles.
Second, without a bend in the rod it won't connect due to the contact with the diff cover. Before I get to cutting and bending I thought I'd check here first to see what I have missed.

(Not trying to hijack but it was the only thread relative to my issue when I did a search.)

Scale beer cans, now that's the schlitz!

1st--make sure the rod ends are mounted on top of the knuckles this will give you some clearance over the pumpkin.

2nd-you can add spacers between the rod ends and knuckles to raise it for more clearance

3rd-make a longer link (pretty sure that's necessary anyway)

4th-bend the new link (would need to be even longer if it has a bend in it)

5th-ALL the above!

[Duxx]

Thanks. I bent the stock link for now and added a couple spacers. Anyone know if the Level 3 link works with the axial hc knuckles?

Scale beer cans, now that's the schlitz!

[BajaBobby]

Totally agree, I'll make sure to post pics from now on. So here's a pic heavy reply

So I stayed up till 2 in the morning jacking with the steering. I moved the servo to the chassis tested it and promptly moved it back to the axle. I had full range of steering, so much that the tires would rub the spring on full lock. But the long wheelbase, locked diff, and improper ackerman caused it to bind pretty bad and push through the turns on carpet. In reverse it would really bind at full lock. Also it seemed like the servo had to work way than when it was on the axle.

The pics show the current configuration. Mr. Joshua, with the pieces I have now, I couldn't get the tie rod above the pumpkin. Once I get the configuration right I'll likely bend a better tie rod and find some better spacers.





Servo Horn Clearance











Battery Tray Spacer. Make the CG too high, but allows for better suspension travel.







When it's put together all the wires are neatly bundled.

[heinie_21]

looks like pretty good steering. if it were MY rig the only things i would change are:

get a smaller (shorter) servo horn so you can mount the tie-rod ABOVE the knuckles. OR keep the long servo horn, but get some spacers and "lift" your servo like 1/3" up off the axle so you can mount the tie-rod ABOVE the knuckles. (with the tie rod above the knuckles, your tie-rod ends will not contact the c-hubs which limits the steering slightly. this is the whole point in having "high steer" or "high clearance" knuckles)

While you're getting a shorter horn/moving the servo, ditch the 645mg (well keep it and make it a winch or something) and swap the 645mg with a servo with 230+oz torque. get the hitec 7955tg if you can afford it, they often sell in the classifieds section for around $70 used.



looks good overall! keep on tinkering

[SMiTHBRo]

CVDs and high clearance knuckles. Makes for assloads of lock

[bouncyroof]

what they said, also rear steer is nice, i played with some buddies rigs that have it and its quite the nice improvement, helps in all sorts of tight situations as well, and you can always crab walk it across a steep hill rather than driving it sideways and hoping you dont roll off

[BajaBobby]

Thanks for the advice Heinie, I keep messing around till I get it right. I hate to move the servo up higher since the cg is already too high. I think I need to move the battery sideways and down lower. I've seen some guys do that. With the battery up that high it's kinda tippy.

You ot that right Smithbro, the first time I ran it after getting those parts installed it felt like a different truck. Like any hop up though it caused a different set of issues. But I think it did way more good than harm. I think over/underdrive gears might be next. Any suggestions. I know nothing about that yet.

I'll take more pics once I solve a few problems.

Now I need to go tie myself to something so Hurricane Sandy doesn't blow me away

[BajaBobby]

I've considered installing rear steer. I had a clod tuber with rear steer. It makes a huge difference. Now that I have some of the stock steering components left over I could buy just a few parts to piece it together. I think I even have a servo laying around.

[tb10151]

i know this is a really stupid question but what length is the robitronics arm do i need for a scx10, the short or normal length?
Thanks