Dual Dingo build thread-My first build thread

[juswin24]

Originally Posted by 96speedZ28

How come there are no pictures of the whole rig with the body on?

Since I'm do'n a build thread and I figured since I did the body last, I would work my way to it. I could post one if you like.

[96speedZ28]

Originally Posted by juswin24

Cause I'm do'n a build thread and I figured since I did the body last, I would work my to it. I could post one if you like.

Oh I gotcha. I was just curious why you hadn't posted one yet and kinda wanted to see it, but I can wait.

[juswin24]

I mentioned earlier that I left the front 3 linked. I saw posts on here about needing a 7 mm spacer to change driveline angle. When I added it I found the servo hit the fame braces. Has any had this happen? It also changed the geometry of the steering. My aluminum chubs are clock able, but that didn't help. Steering looked like it was digging in. I do plan on 4 linking with the parts from the kit and I'm wondering if the same will happen.

[juswin24]

I've add some pics that are on page one. Couple of how I mounted the battery trays and a couple on the electronics. I think that covers this build. I didnt take pics of the painting process. Here is some finished pics of my "DINGO PIRATES"

[mitchr97]

Lookin good man but I thought you said this was a dual dingo build?

[juswin24]

Originally Posted by FORDROX97

Lookin good man but I thought you said this was a dual dingo build?

It is. I'll start posting pics tomorrow. Second build I'm customizing some. Thanks for looking! I'll get a lot of it up this weekend.

[juswin24]

THIS IS BUILD TWO.

Due the the lack of funds didn't install aluminum Chubs and knuckles. Will do later. I needed to find easier power connectors because the old style Deans plugs were hard for me get apart. I researched and found these Anderson Powerpole & SB Multipole Series Sets: Bags of housings and contacts in different sizes. Seem to be popular with RC Helicopter pilots. Best price I found was eBay. I'm using the 30 amp connector.i want to conceal wiring so I bought some 1/4" split wire loom to conceal them. I did want to mention, the Anderson power poles can be assembled in different configuration. The motor connectors were assembled so they will connect to the batteries.

[mitchr97]

Lookin good man

[juswin24]

Originally Posted by FORDROX97

Lookin good man

Thanks. It's fun getting into the small details. Plus I just like building these things. All of my RC's have been kits.

[juswin24]

I haven't finished the ESC and receiver box yet. But I did start the fender wells or wheel wells. I saw this here Dingo Body needs.... something.....??? and I really inspired me to try and make my own. I found this video on working with Styrene YouTube - Tutorial: The Basics of Working With Styrene. I found this very helpful.

[juswin24]

When building these I didn't have fenders flares on. Tire clearance looked good and I new they were high enough for the flares to cover the up. What I forgot was the backing to the fender flares were almost 1/4" thick. I spaced the flares from the body 1/8" so they wouldn't rub. So I was off 1/8" on the wells and they weren't high enough to clear the flare backing. You can see in the pics I had to trim 1/8" off. I had these all glued and mounted. Styrene is so easy to work with. Marked off the 1/8", scored, snipped the corners and snapped it off with pliers.

[juswin24]

Originally Posted by juswin24

I mentioned earlier that I left the front 3 linked. I saw posts on here about needing a 7 mm spacer to change driveline angle. When I added it I found the servo hit the fame braces. Has any had this happen? It also changed the geometry of the steering. My aluminum chubs are clock able, but that didn't help. Steering looked like it was digging in. I do plan on 4 linking with the parts from the kit and I'm wondering if the same will happen.

No one has had this problem?

[mitchr97]

I havent man. But 3 letters: cms love them.

[juswin24]

Originally Posted by FORDROX97

I havent man. But 3 letters: cms love them.

I have been looking at those. I might try it out on one of the Dingos. Won't be a problem since I am not running my batteries up front.

[juswin24]

Some more pics of the wheel wells.

[juswin24]

I found the body mount design I'm using is off in the front. They have the front of the body about a 1/4" to low. I first noticed the body was not level with Rock rails. You can see this in the pic sort of. It's noticeable looking at the wheels and fender flares. By rasing the mounts up in the front might also let me raise the front bumper like I found in the Hints, tips and tricks section.

[juswin24]

In this picture you can see I added a couple hex nuts to raise the body post up about 1/4" to level out body. When I make the new mounting plate I might have room to raise front bumper.

[mitchr97]

cool man! I always suggest to raise the bumper. it hits the rocks less, and it looks better

[juswin24]

Something I have not decided on, is the color of the next Dingo. I did paint the red Dingo on the outside of the body. I bought Bright Yellow but I'm not sure yet. I might paint the inside of #2 and do two tone with black. What do you guys think or recommend?

[Nvghostrider]

I went to XT60 plugs because of some of the same hand issues you mentioned. Traxxas plugs were pretty okay on my old AX10 also. I had the same issue with spacing my front three link. Ended up with worn servo cables on two seperate servos. I installed a CMS and feel much better about it now.