SCX10 Newbie

[Tbone]

I'm new to the SCX10(and scale crawlers) but not new to RC.

I picked up a used Dingo and looking it over have some questions.
It's got a 27 turn motor, AS-2 servo, Rooster Crawler esc, 2200mah 2s lipo, 14/87 gearing, steel yokes on the trans outputs/diff inputs(not sure if this is stock, the rest of the driveshafts are plastic) and the battery relocated to the front. Also has aluminum suspension and steering links.

I am wondering how an XL-5 esc would do. I know it doesn't have a drag brake but the main reasons I'm thinking about putting it in is that it's waterproof and has the 50% training setting which is great for when my kids want to run it. I don't plan to compete with the truck otherwise I'd definitely keep the Rooster in it.

It has aluminum C's and rear lockouts but they are loose on the axle tubes; I assume this has happened to other people and I'm wondering if there's a fix besides getting new axle housings.

It's got 4 link suspension, I think that it originally came with the 3 link with the upper wishbone. Not sure what would be better, keeping it 4 link or putting it back to 3 link.

Looked at a CMS kit but from what I've read it's really just for appearance so plan to leave it on the axle for now.

It has some led lights in it but half them don't work. Would like to get the lights working again but probably will install my own LED's just wondering what the best way is to power them? Some sort of voltage regulator or resistors? I do have a Traxxas waterproof receiver box which I was planning to use for my rx(running a TQi radio) so I have some extra space in there for LED regulators/controllers depending how big it is.

Also noticed the bearings are pretty sacked out; some cheap bearing kits on eBay, probably will order one of them.

Not sure what benefit there is to 'mirroring' the tranny.

Thanks for any help.

Tbone

[Hatech]

Sorry mate I can't give you any advise on the esc or the hubs/lock outs but I will say keep the 4 link. A 4 link setup will give you more stability when your wheeling. Bearings are a good thing to keep in working order as there is no point in causing strain or wear on any of the other parts. And with the lights, i am not sure what you would need to make your own system but it should be fairly straight forward and cheap! Or you can go with a plug and go system, like the rc4wd scale lighting system.

I have experimented with mirroring/flipping etc. with the trans and I honestly didn't notice any worth while change for the way I wheel. But hey there is no harm with experimenting with everything =D

[Tbone]

Thanks.

A few pics:

[SwampDawg]

LEDs

all you need is CAT5 cable, Diodes and resistors
wiring is straight forward too

you can use a digital voltameter in OHM setting to light up the LED which will identify the positive from the negative. if you have it backwards it wont light up for you using the voltameter.

[SAVED1]

personally i would not use the XL-5 esc it's not made for slow pace scaling i would stay with the rooster for now unless you are planing on buying a new esc. if you plan on getting a new esc there are many good ones out there that are made for crawling which would work good for the scx10

not sure about the C's and rear lockouts check to see if the bolt holes got wallowed out.

i personally like the 4 link over the 3 link but that's just me.

getting a CMS kit is a nice scale appearance thing and depending on which one you buy if you do you may have to do some modifying so be ready for that if you get one.

in the electronics section of this forum there are a few threads about lighting you may want to do some searches there for lighting help but what swampdawg said up there ^ is some good info.

yeah getting some new bearing is a good idea and keep some extra ones around just in case lol

'mirroring' the tranny is good for weight distribution it might have other advantages but not to sure about that.

all in all the scx10 is a great platform to start with and you should have lots of fun with it.

by the way...welcome to the scale/crawling scene

[SwampDawg]

thanks saved1!

also forgot too mention...if the diodes are new, then the longer leg is positive!

[Solitaire]

Good buy on the Dingo. Saw it listed on RCPitstop.

I have the same truck.
Keep the four link. Works fine on the Dingo.
The stock ESC is a decent controller and it's much easier to waterproof a brushed system. Mine has been running since last Nov with stock motor/ESC and stock drive shafts. I did install Axial CVD's.
Have only changed out the servo due to it getting a bit sloppy around the output shaft.
Get some 3x6mm Buttonhead machine screws for the C-hubs and rear lockouts. These will stay in the plastic much better. CreationFab (RCC vendor) has a good supply and reasonable prices including shipping to Canada.
Don't worry about CMS at this point. On the axle works just fine.
Can't help you on LED's. I use the Axial LED's and controller with HeyOK's (Vendor on RCC and lives in Burnaby) switch so I can turn them on and off with the transmitter.
FastEddyBearings.com (RCC vendor) has bearing kits for the SCX10. Reasonable pricing and shipping to Canada (free, I think on those kits).
I've mirrored the tranny on a couple of my builds and as the post above mentions...it wasn't a noticeable difference on a trail rig.
Good luck with it. I've been real pleased with mine.

[Jus]

Regarding the tranny layout... You want the motor on the right side of the chassis to fight torque twist. I also prefer to put the spur gear forward so the front tires don't throw dust and dirt into the end bell of the motor and cause excessive wear of the brushes and comm.

[AddictedtoRC1]

Originally Posted by Jus

Regarding the tranny layout... You want the motor on the right side of the chassis to fight torque twist. I also prefer to put the spur gear forward so the front tires don't throw dust and dirt into the end bell of the motor and cause excessive wear of the brushes and comm.

Mirroring the tranny is a good idea. I just did another for a friend tonight. If you are looking to keep weight bias toward the front though, you will want to mirror and flip the tranny 180* keeping the motor in front of it. If you are not worried about the weight then just flip it.

[Tbone]

Was looking at the truck tonight and the bump stops are still in place on the shocks. While thinking about taking them out I was looking and found the travel is limited by the servo; when the front suspension is compressed the servo hits the battery mount and limits travel.

That got me thinking that a CMS might help the suspension travel more than just adding looks. The battery would have to be relocated to make space for the servo. I'll be looking into a CMS kit...

The shock springs are green(long) and red(short) all the way around. Thinking of getting some softer springs, for the back at least.

[bobd80toy]

hey there, im also new to the rc crawlin but i might of had the same problem as you, i just fixed mine last night.

the blue arm was going up and hitting the crossmember, so i took the orange piece off and cut off about 3/16 and it works perfect now.



my blue arm and orange one may not be the same color as your parts, but you get the idea. you can see on the right side of the orange end is shorter.

hope this help!

[bobd80toy]

also from what ive read, taking out the rear bump stops help a lot. but ya dont want to take the front ones out due to the steering linkage

[Tbone]

Thanks.
That orange piece is for the 3 link suspension and I have 4 link but thanks for the tip.

I see how the rear bump stops will help but the front is limited by the steering so they will stay til that's changed

[Tbone]

Had a chance to take the truck out for a run, liked it a lot but could use a bit more speed. Thinking of trying a 20 tooth pinion(currently 14) and see how it runs.

[Tbone]