Wraith Axles on Scx10 w/ NewBright JK
 

Im currently installing RidgeCrest axles on a spare scx10 Chassis. Im having a problem with the drive shaft hitting links. Do i have to make different ones or is there a trick. I already mirrored the means to get the outdrive shafts on the right side but can't figure out this link issue.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/08/4ypa7yna.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/08/ybe9a6y6.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/08/upese5e9.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/08/hu9eda9a.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/08/y3yruhas.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/08/9u2emy3u.jpg

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Re: Wraith Axles on Scx10 Chassis?????
 

Search "Wroncho" "thumbsup"

Re: Wraith Axles on Scx10 Chassis?????
 

Thank you...."thumbsup"

Re: Wraith Axles on Scx10 Chassis?????
 

I posted this in another thread the other day. Copied and pasted...hope it works:

Well since I am working on just that at the moment, I will share what I am doing. Started with a basic Honcho kit version. I used the existing 106mm rear lower links and the front 98mm lower links (home made from all thread and aluminum tubing). What I did to help with rod end bind from the angles is installed angled rod ends. You can see them in this picture.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c.../IMG_23731.jpg

For the uppers, I used or made the same Length approximately as the lowers and played with different length rod ends and spacers (lengthen the links) to get the correct driveshaft angle and wheels/axle centered left to right on the chassi. Now here is the tricky part. The transmission outputs are now on the opposite side of the rig as the axle inputs are on the left side. So to keep the drive shafts from having to go so far side to side, I flipped the trans mount around. Just unbolt it from the frame and spin it so what was facing the rear is now facing the front. This puts the trans outputs much more inline with the axle inputs.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c.../IMG_23741.jpg

For the upper links (tricky part mentioned before), the upper link closest to the driveshaft is now going to hit the driveshaft. I have seen multiple fixes for this. What I did is put a bend in the upper link. Now the link goes up and over the driveshaft. You have to do this for both axles.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...o/IMG_2367.jpg

Kinds blurry pic but you can see the upper link on the far side is bent to ride up and over the drive shaft. I just used a simple $10 brake line bender I got a while back at the auto store, but many things could accomplish this. I didn't measure what I bent them to but I would guess about a 30 degree angle going by the vague markings on my bender. The side that gets bent will now due to the nature of what you did to the link, be about 1/8 inch shorter (in my case). So I just put a spacer between the rod and and the link when I screwed it on. I did a lot of this overall due to I am picky on drive shaft angles and having things perfectly centered. The type of spacers are similar to the spacer that goes between the shock and shock hoop at the top of the SCX shocks. Just use ones or washers, etc to get the spacing you need.

What the front looks like finished.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...o/IMG_2365.jpg

Back finished.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...o/IMG_2364.jpg

Overall underneath.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...o/IMG_2366.jpg

Top front with the battery and electronics mount I made from sheet aluminum. Servo winch is going in the front of this plate.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...o/IMG_2371.jpg

Body on. I doubt this will be the permanent body, I just havent gotten to that part yet. I may run a NewBright 4dr JK body I havent used yet. I have the wheelbase set at 13 inches which would work great on it.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c.../IMG_23721.jpg

I installed some Vanquish and STRC parts on the axles but have not run the rig outside yet, just around indoors. Nice center of gravity and stable right now. I would like to go to a stiffer shock/spring setup as it is a bit loose now with the extra leverage the wider axles have on it. The suspension cycles perfectly with no bind anywhere. The servo does hit the battery/electro plate if you bottom out the shocks on both sides at the same time. But they do not hit when you cycle the suspension side to side. I am not going to high speed jump it so I do not mind. I prefer to get the weight down as low as possible.

Hope this helps explain some of the process. It is not simple, but not too hard either. All of the things I did, I came across by others on this site. Bending the upper links, etc were all someone else's idea. Good luck if you decide to go this route. i think it will be worth it in the end. but it is not just a simple bolt in (close but not quite). Didn't take me long as I have 4 SCX10's and a lot of experience with them. And I have tons of parts, rod ends, spacers, links, etc. Have fun"thumbsup"

Re: Wraith Axles on Scx10 Chassis?????
 

You will be so happy if you get this sorted out. The performance is unreal. I am shocked at how well the rig works like this. This is a few things I have found after doing this mod last weekend.

1. Maybe some bent rear lower links. I get high centered on occasion on ledge climbs. I think some bent lower links would help this. I am running it a bit shorter then I would normally. But I am doing this for our local TTC that is in November. Max wheelbase is 13 inches, so that is where I am at. I also think the MIp's would not allow much more wheelbase without falling apart. I may look into a longer male end for the rear which is closer to not working (106mm Honcho length lower links). The front is fine. I have run them like this for about 5 hours this week without any issue so I don't think it is necessary till I extend the wheelbase.

2. Have a bunch of misc rod ends of different types. I used some normal, some offset like on the steering link, some angled like the upper frame side, etc. Makes getting the alignment and helps with getting links away from the driveshaft. The offset ones like what is used on the steering cross link, I used on the upperlinks that are near the driveshaft. Helped keep the link from hitting the driveshaft even after I put a bend in that link. I used some spacers in some spots between the rod and and links to change length where needed. When you bend a link it becomes shorter end to end. Some small spacers like what is used between the shock and shock mount at the top on an SCX10 are like what I used (in different lengths depending on what was needed).

3. Upgrade the steering link. I got my axles off of RPP's salvage yard. They came with the universals (good) but the stock plastic steering. With a 400+ ounce servo it just bends and doesn't steer :shock: . I ended up using STRC C's (bad fit, Vanquish out of stock) and vanquish knuckles and STRC steering links. The STRC C's are very loose. I am not sure if this has been normal for others or not. But they flop around easily till they get the mounting screws put in tight. The stock C's and other ones I have used before (other rigs) have never been like this. I plan to change them to something with a better fit when they come in stock.

4. Make a battery and electronics mount like I had posted. That made a huge difference as well. Took about 10 minutes to make. gets the battery as low as possible in an SCX10 chassi and leaves plenty of space to mount the electronics.

5. Enjoy it!"thumbsup" What a world of difference the wider width makes. Soo stable and capable of things that were never even close to possible before. I had to flip the rig over only a couple of times on my friday after work run of an hour and a half. Normally in that spot I was running, I would have been pulling it off of its roof as much as driving. It is a local dam with lots of rocks. climbs and muddy trails. There is a climb up one of the river bank areas that neither I or anyone I have run with has ever made. It was wet from pouring the day before and I made it up numerous times. I was shocked. I was also very happy on the rocks. The steering is great with the universals and the stability with the width is awesome. I know, not as scale now as some rigs. But I have 3 other SCX's and a TF2 for that ;-).

Re: Wraith Axles on Scx10 Chassis?????
 

You could always flip the diffs over so the driveshaft is at more of an angle and away from the links. Wraith diffs can be built either way"thumbsup"

Here is the beginning of the body fitting. Still have to stretch front lower links a hair to get wheel base lined up right.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/13/gyba3e3a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/13/y8y9ageh.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/13/9udyzuju.jpg

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Re: Wraith Axles on Scx10 Chassis?????
 

Ever get your wroncho finished? Sorry for digging up an old thread