upgrades to consider while building dingo?

[traxxascrazy56]

are there any upgrades that are a real improvement over stock that i should get while i build the dingo that i plan to get soonish. Also should i go with a novak goat/ballistic combo or the eiger/rock star combo W/ BEC

[Arctic Fire]

I would start by upgrading your search function...

[taco08jk]

Driveshafts, servo(higher torque), and links. In that order or all at once if money allows. You can still have fun with the stock servo but you definitely want to upgrade the driveshafts that have the grub screw.

[btoungette]

Originally Posted by taco08jk

...but you definitely want to upgrade the driveshafts that have the grub screw.

What exactly do you mean by this statement?

OP, I'd do Robinson Racing gears in the transmission before the driveshafts. One piece main and idler gears, #1542 & #1541. I've used stock driveshafts (both old style, and WB8 ) with no problems so far.

I'd also go with a different motor/esc combo. Of course, it all depends on what you plan to do with your rig.

Keep reading in the SCX-10 section, tons of knowledge to be gained.

[taco08jk]

Originally Posted by btoungette

What exactly do you mean by this statement?

OP, I'd do Robinson Racing gears in the transmission before the driveshafts. One piece main and idler gears, #1542 & #1541. I've used stock driveshafts (both old style, and WB8 ) with no problems so far.

I'd also go with a different motor/esc combo. Of course, it all depends on what you plan to do with your rig.

Keep reading in the SCX-10 section, tons of knowledge to be gained.

I meant exactly what I said, no matter what I did I couldn't keep my stock shaft set screw tight on the outputs. So I upgraded( the op asked what upgrades to consider ). He's already on track upgrading the electronics so I threw a couple other upgrades out there to consider. OP, if you already have the newer driveshafts then run'em till they break and spend the money elsewhere.

[btoungette]

Originally Posted by taco08jk

I meant exactly what I said,

What you said was not clear, which is why I asked. Don't all driveshafts have some sort of grub/set screw to hold them to the outputs and axle pinions? Old style had short grubs (two per side) and new style had longer grubs that go through the outputs and pinions. I was trying to get clarification for the OP, and others.

[taco08jk]

Originally Posted by btoungette

What you said was not clear, which is why I asked. Don't all driveshafts have some sort of grub/set screw to hold them to the outputs and axle pinions? Old style had short grubs (two per side) and new style had longer grubs that go through the outputs and pinions. I was trying to get clarification for the OP, and others.

My bad, I guess I should have clarified better. I meant to upgrade the driveshafts if he had the old style set screw instead of the newer (wraith style) cause my factory set screw would not stay tight no matter what I did. Sorry, I didn't mean to sound like an a$$hole.

[dittohead]

Originally Posted by traxxascrazy56

are there any upgrades that are a real improvement over stock that i should get while i build the dingo that i plan to get soonish. Also should i go with a novak goat/ballistic combo or the eiger/rock star combo W/ BEC

Do aluminum knuckles/C's and better driveshafts, oh and a metal servo horn. Those are the only parts i ever completely broke on my scx10. I also would REALLY rethink using novak stuff. Get a tekin fxr esc and a 35-45t brushed motor of your choice, castle BEC and you will be far better off

[traxxascrazy56]

first off i apologize for asking a question thats been asked a million times, and thanks for the advice but why not go novak, thats my biggest question

[dittohead]

Originally Posted by traxxascrazy56

first off i apologize for asking a question thats been asked a million times, and thanks for the advice but why not go novak, thats my biggest question

Ive personally seen more novak stuff burn up then all other manufacturers combined. I wouldnt run any of their esc's period

[taco08jk]

I agree with dittohead, I would rather use stock electronics than Novak. Not only are they prone to burning up but their lagging in drag brake technology.

[Qcustomz]

Originally Posted by dittohead

Do aluminum knuckles/C's and better driveshafts, oh and a metal servo horn. Those are the only parts i ever completely broke on my scx10. I also would REALLY rethink using novak stuff. Get a tekin fxr esc and a 35-45t brushed motor of your choice, castle BEC and you will be far better off

If I where to get the fx-r and a 35 turn. Wy do I need a BEC??

[arcanecrawler89]

I personally upgraded the shafts I kept blowing the wb8s left and right after I put the vxl in from my short course truck. Mip hasn't done me wrong yet but only had em a little under a week so we will see ^__^

[eric113]

Originally Posted by traxxascrazy56

first off i apologize for asking a question thats been asked a million times, and thanks for the advice but why not go novak, thats my biggest question

Novak's technology is way behind the times. There much better options out there.

[dittohead]

Originally Posted by Qcustomz

If I where to get the fx-r and a 35 turn. Wy do I need a BEC??

Same reason you need an external bec with pretty much any esc out there. The esc's built in bec circuit doesnt have enough voltage to support even a middle of the road servo when used in a crawler. An external bec is required for any rock crawler IMO

[traxxascrazy56]

ok thanks ill stay away from novak for this build

[juswin24]

Originally Posted by dittohead

Same reason you need an external bec with pretty much any esc out there. The esc's built in bec circuit doesnt have enough voltage to support even a middle of the road servo when used in a crawler. An external bec is required for any rock crawler IMO

I agree too! Do the BEC and be done with it. Small investment and local hobby shop might have the link and adjust the voltage for you. Mine did it for free since I bought it from them. Once you have it there will be no worries about any upgrades. Binding your steering is so easy rock crawling or trailing.

[traxxascrazy56]

awesome thanks guys

[Jus]

You will want to consider 4 link suspension front and rear.

The Dingo kit comes with the newer drive shafts that should serve you well as long as you don't run crazy power.

One big upgrade you should definitely think about are bead lock wheels. Don't waste your time with the pathetic rims that require you to glue your tires on.

Everything else is just determined by how hard you'll drive the truck and how much you want to spend on it.

Aluminum knuckles aren't a bad idea but if you'll just be trail running and don't use a powerful servo even they aren't necessary.

[traxxascrazy56]

so out of box the links are setup for three link front and rear with aluminum links, but included is a plastic four link setup, correct