Szczerba's IFS SCX Build

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by Manning

Funny you mentioned the weight. I was scanning through the pics and was thinking this thing has got to be approaching 9 lbs. With all that steel, 7 lbs an excellent weight.

Was 6lbs 2oz before the recent tube work.

Originally Posted by helhedded

Hot damn! Nice work, Jabroski!

Yea, at busting front CVD's. Broke the new HD output too.

These CVD's hold up to full throttle hill climbs? No.
These CVD's hold up to street drag racing? No.
Guess I could ease up on the throttle, find better CVD's (been looking) or put the solid axle back up front.
Going to www.gshobby.com tomorrow to see if I can make some other MIP CVD's work for this front end. They carry alot of sets for different cars/trucks.

IFS SCX with Tekin Redline 13.5 on 3s, 21 tooth pinion
vs
SCX Honcho with Holmes Hobbies can with a 27T Race arm (Mike Manning modified) on 3s, 21 tooth pinion
Pulls me off a line a bit but they are close. My rig is 7lbs, my brothers like 5lbs or less

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-r0T...ature=youtu.be

[Manning]

Ha, I've forgot about that motor. Looks like it still runs OK. I'm assuming you've cut it.

Bummer about the carnage. Hopefully you can find something at GS. I've heard the new shop is even more awesomer than the last.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by Manning

Ha, I've forgot about that motor. Looks like it still runs OK. I'm assuming you've cut it.

Bummer about the carnage. Hopefully you can find something at GS. I've heard the new shop is even more awesomer than the last.

You are making an a$$ out of you and me! I haven't cut that motor yet. It doesn't have much run time on it and is usually on 8.4volts. I has nice get up on 3s. My truck has UD/OD gears too. His is stock.

Chad gave me that nice Cobra lathe at Nats and is sending me a power supply he got for free, soon. He is a nice feller!

The new GS shop is in an old grocery store in Barling. It's massive and has a small track back in the stock room. If your on facebook, search for the store, they have pictures up.

[monkeyracer]

Do you think the combo of ud/od gears might have something to do with going through so many front unis and outputs? I've seen mt2s with much more power not have an issue with the hd outputs. I wonder if you went to matched ratio or just one axle under our over if that would help. I'm still working on the body on my ifs scx, so I haven't been able to run it just yet, but can't see that happening to my truck...

[ROLANDROCKSHOP]

if you keep trashing cvds you aint gonna have any monsta truck build $$..


i think monkeyracer maybe onto something with the over/under gears.
could be worth a quick swapout to see..


nice job on the welding!

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

Do you think the combo of ud/od gears might have something to do with going through so many front unis and outputs? I've seen mt2s with much more power not have an issue with the hd outputs. I wonder if you went to matched ratio or just one axle under our over if that would help. I'm still working on the body on my ifs scx, so I haven't been able to run it just yet, but can't see that happening to my truck...

Good thinkin'. I think I am going insane on these CVD's. You know, doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.
I'll have to order up another set of gears. I have the UD, OD's and stock ratios. But no two of the same right now.
I have slow crawled this truck, pretty easy and the CVD's didn't last long. So they are really weak or it is the OD/UD gearing.
I think the drive cups are getting broke when the CVD shaft breaks and gets bound up.

Originally Posted by ROLANDROCKSHOP

if you keep trashing cvds you aint gonna have any monsta truck build $$..
i think monkeyracer maybe onto something with the over/under gears.
could be worth a quick swapout to see..
nice job on the welding!

Those CVD's are only $12 a pair but live in Hong Kong.

Monster Truck build already has $700 in it. And Santa may be helping too.

Welding is coming along. The 80amp flux core wire welder does ok but I can burn through if I am not really careful. I am getting better but the black paint covers well.

[Szczerba]

Got bored and cut up the Honcho cab I had laying around.

I swapped out to the Underdrive gears front and rear. The truck's drivetrain felt alot smoother. After 20 minutes of light trail driving with a couple blips of the throttle here and there, CVD breakage for 4th time.

I have some MIP CVD's but they are about 3mm too short. Only two options for those are to cut/re-sleeve or limit the droop on the truck. The truck crawls and handles great right now, so limiting the front will only hurt performance.

Any tips, hints, tricks?

...

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Szczerba

Got bored and cut up the Honcho cab I had laying around.

I swapped out to the Underdrive gears front and rear. The truck's drivetrain felt alot smoother. After 20 minutes of light trail driving with a couple blips of the throttle here and there, CVD breakage for 4th time.

I have some MIP CVD's but they are about 3mm too short. Only two options for those are to cut/re-sleeve or limit the droop on the truck. The truck crawls and handles great right now, so limiting the front will only hurt performance.

Any tips, hints, tricks?

...

My suggestions:
1. Use MIP CVD's with RS4 drift suspension arms. Pro: stronger shafts, con: narrower width (the drift version is 190 vs 200mm for the evo 3)

2. Sleeve the mips. Pro: stronger shafts, con: time consuming (especially if you break one)

3. Try the stock dogbone. Pro: cheap replacements, con: limited steering, weaker (probably)

4. Reduce the motor. (Drop voltage or raise turns) pro: less breakage, con: less speed or torque.


My guess would be sleeved mips would be the best bet.


Edit: looking at your bent shaft reminds me of my old cheap Chinese monster truck. I kept bending front shafts, but figured it was the cheap Chinese components. Got better quality bones, still bent. Finally figured out it would only happen at full steering lock. The bone would come out of the cup, and the pin would get caught on the outside of the cup, twisting and bending the bone. Limited the steering and haven't had a problem before I parted it out.
On the bench, at full lock steering rotate the drive train and see if the bone is popping out at all.

[Szczerba]

Thanks for the ideas, monkeyracer.

Narrowing the front end with new a-arms is not an issue since I run VP hubs on all my wheels. I am sure which arms to buy to try. HPI made way too many variations of the RS4 for me to keep up with. Do you know the parts/part numbers?

I think sleeving the MIP's I have may be the best option right now. Only hurdle will be to find the correct inner diameter tube for the sleeve. I have 3/16' steel tube put it will not work. I will have to do some digging to find something.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Szczerba

Thanks for the ideas, monkeyracer.

Narrowing the front end with new a-arms is not an issue since I run VP hubs on all my wheels. I am sure which arms to buy to try. HPI made way too many variations of the RS4 for me to keep up with. Do you know the parts/part numbers?

#85056 SUSPENSION ARM SET (190mm WIDTH/ 2 PAIRS)

Not sure if there's an aluminum version of these or not though...

Originally Posted by Szczerba

I think sleeving the MIP's I have may be the best option right now. Only hurdle will be to find the correct inner diameter tube for the sleeve. I have 3/16' steel tube put it will not work. I will have to do some digging to find something.

I won't have my SCX up and running for at least a week or more, so I won't be able to see if I am having the same troubles...

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

#85056 SUSPENSION ARM SET (190mm WIDTH/ 2 PAIRS)

Not sure if there's an aluminum version of these or not though..

I won't have my SCX up and running for at least a week or more, so I won't be able to see if I am having the same troubles...

Thanks for that. I was thinking i might be able to drill new hinge pivot holes for the knuckles, on the a-arms closer towards the diff. Maybe only one hole up. Might try it on the plastic a-arms i have first.
i was at Lowe's today and found these tension pins. Ill have to see if i can cut and resleeve/weld using these. Not sure yet.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Szczerba

Thanks for that. I was thinking i might be able to drill new hinge pivot holes for the knuckles, on the a-arms closer towards the diff. Maybe only one hole up. Might try it on the plastic a-arms i have first.
i was at Lowe's today and found these tension pins. Ill have to see if i can cut and resleeve/weld using these. Not sure yet.

I actually just looked at mine, and apparently I narrowed the width with redrilling holes closer to the diff. Maybe this was where I got my measurements being so close to the axial axle width.
I found out because I got aluminum arms from asiatees.com and realized they would need mods to work...

[19_mustang_96]

This is sweet, I want one.

[Hi-Intentionz]

That's 3s??? Well it is a 13.5 but man I thought u was trying to make a fast truck. Looking good man it's a bad ass rig overall.!!

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by 19_mustang_96

This is sweet, I want one.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Hi-Intentionz

That's 3s??? Well it is a 13.5 but man I thought u was trying to make a fast truck. Looking good man it's a bad ass rig overall.!!

I put a 13.5 in to for slow crawling, wheel speed and a little top end. This rig kinda has two faces. Crawler and basher but the front end CVD options won't hold up to high speed. I am finishing up some cut/re-welded CVDs right now.

[mygolfisslow]

This thing is epic. Nice use of hpi parts to a arm the front. Well done

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by mygolfisslow

This thing is epic. Nice use of hpi parts to a arm the front. Well done

Thanks. I stole the use of HPI parts from monkeyracer. He is building an IFS Chevy.

1. Internal and External Limiting of shocks. See droop note below.

2. 3/16" "tension pins" drilled out with 9/64" bit and welded some MIP CVD's for the HPI RS4. The CVD's needed to be lengthened due to this truck having alot more droop than it's on road cousin.
If you are a welder/fabricator, dont look at the pictures below. Only been using this new Hobart 140 for a couple hours and these CVD's were tiny.

3. Poser shots from a 30 minute test session. Holding up good so far.

4. New DT-1 Body painted by Ryan at BC Paints!. Awesome work as usual.
HPI DT-1 for Szczerba's IFS SCX-10

[Szczerba]

That didnt last long. I'm out of options with these front axle shafts.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by Szczerba

That didnt last long. I'm out of options with these front axle shafts.

damn.

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

damn.

I know. About 20 minutes of light trailing riding and then about 10 minutes of light rock crawling. I was being easy on the throttle and not trying to get it bound up.
I even limited the shocks in and out to remove the extreme driveline angles.

Unless someone has a better option, this truck will be getting a solid axle up front before too long. Too fun of a truck to keep it in the garage. And it's my only scale crawling ride at the moment.