9 months later finishing Dingo! Build advise?

[Formiga]

Now that snow is here, I've decided to finish my Dingo. Something about romping about in the snow does it for me!

Parts I've accumulated so far;
.Dingo, mostly built now, has been sitting like that since March
.Hand Bros CMS/draglink kit
.RC4WD Tango Down 1.9 Internal Beadlock Wheels
.RC4WD USSR 1.9 Scale Military Tires
-I like the looks of both, the tires look like a cheap mud terrain that I had years ago on a Ramcharger.
.Holmes Hobbies waterproof BR-XL with a TorqueMaster Sport 45t
.Axial Universal Joint Set
.CC BEC
.Hitec 645mg

Parts I've got coming still
.Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster Pro 35t
.RC4WD AX2 2 speed transmission!
.MIP driveshafts
.RC4WD Viking 1/10 Aluminum Winch Roller Fairlead
.Reign RC Axial Dingo Defender Grill & Light Bezels
.Axial light buckets, and bits - Gotta light it up!
.Axial Aluminum C Hub
.Axial overdrive gear set for front axle
.Egressor knuckles and weights - not sure if weights will fit inside RC4WD wheels
.Preordered a set of biggin69 steel beef tubes
.Hitec 5645mg

Anything I should add to this? I kind of want to order GCM Racings front mount, and the axial dig bits. 2 speed with dig! Don't need it though.

Anyways, with the HH stuff I picked up some brushed motor maintenance stuff. I've got 3 motor options for the winter (I'll save the 35t TMP for spring)
.Tamiya superstock comm, handwound 23t, took 3 skims to clean up. I was impressed with how round it was. 3s and shoot for about 8:1 spur/pinion
.Tekin hand wound 55t comm, 3s and 6s options. Spur/Pinions are cheap
.HH TMS 45t, again 3s and 6s options

This rig will mostly trail run, with odd bits of climb this or that to see if it can. If it goes at a small child running pace, I'm happy. Which 3 motors would be your first choice, with what gearing, and voltage. And Why?

I'll be adding pics, through this next week! So allright folks, advise!

[Formiga]

Reserved for final build details, pictures, things like that!

[Formiga]

Well finished doing GSHWHES stuff for wifey, and get to start putting evenings into my SCX! Wanted to get my wheels/tires put together, the Hand Bros CMS and panhard setup installed, front axle rebuilt with overdrive, Egressor knuckles and weights, and Axial C hubs tonight. Can't finish all of that though.


One of the Axial C's doesn't have the holes drilled/tapped. I can pick up a replacement tomorrow. Annoying.



The Egressor knuckles and weights are nice. No more sloppy plastic! The weights fit inside the barrel of the RC4WD wheels, I'll need thicker hexes or I'll need to remove ~1.5mm from the face of the weights (maybe just bevel the edge). The arm of the knuckle just touches the tire, some thicker hexes should cure that as well. If I decide to shave the weights, I'll cut the last hole off the arm.
Minor stumbling blocks. Will be nice when it's done though, shorter turning radius. No weights in tires to add strain to drivetrain. More precise steering.

Still gotta decide on power. 23,27,35,45, or 55t. Gearing limited by MIP driveshafts, so no bigger spur. 3s or 6s. I'll see if I can fit a 12t pinion with the 87t spur tomorrow night. Never did find an answer for the smallest pinion thing, and it will help narrow down motor choices.

Edit;
Rather than go to sleep wondering about whether or not thicker hexes will work, I went looking for my original green ax10 hexes. With the nipple still on, they're about right for thickness. Weights and knuckles clear everything. I'll try to find hexes tomorrow!

[JShetler122]

Nice where did you get the weights?

[Formiga]

felsenfest knuckle weights

EGRESSor makes some well thought out, cool stuff. Awesome service as well!

[Formiga]

Yesterday I picked up some Traxxas 8mm thick hexes, and some cheap aluminum GH Racing C's. They're crap. There's some differences in casting and machining between the two sides, but they'll do until I can get some replacements for my defective ones. Last night I installed the Hand Bros CMS, and pan hard setup. The instructions, aren't great, but definitely aren't as bad as some of what I've read. I'm not an engineer, I'm only a mechanic, so I don't think that I could make this better. I do understand how it all works, and what the relationships between the different components are, and can certainly tune it for my ride though! After changing link lengths, bending and what not - I see the deficiencies for my setup and what I need to change. So I'll chronicle it for anyone that cares enough to read it.


It looks like it's a well thought out addition to a stock SCX. Mine isn't stock though. A trackbar or panhard and drag link need to be as close to parallel and the same length as possible to eliminate bump steer. The steering arms on the knuckle and the arm on your servo need to be parallel for equal steering side to side. So if you've changed anything on your SCX as far as steering and suspension, there's some tinkering that needs to be done.

So tonight armed with some simple tools, and a dial caliper I mocked up some lower links with 4-40 threaded rod, to pull my front wheels back into the center of the Dingo wheel wells. I'll pick up some 5-40 rod and some tubing to sleeve it, and make some actual links this weekend. I used 2 - 55mm axial posts, and 4 axial short rod ends (10 mm from center of eye to base) to lock the suspension at mid height. Measure the distance from the posts to rails and add to or remove from the setup that CMS recommends to make your drag link. This can be more precise than what I've done, but with the panhard not parallel to the axle, it's a compromise. Keep that in mind.

I ran out of threaded rod, so this is as far as I've gone. I've never done anything like this on a scale crawler, so this is interesting. Still to do; shorten the 3 link top link to make steering arms and pitman parallel, and space servo towards vehicle centre line, so I can have an equal length drag link. Then this part is done!

[tunnalram]

solid links replacing shocks? seem to be missing the point of the droup setup lol

[Formiga]

Originally Posted by tunnalram

solid links replacing shocks? seem to be missing the point of the droup setup lol

Yeah, I can't tell if you just look at pictures without reading, and then make assumptions, or if you're a smartass. The grammar and spelling suggests the former, other factors affect that though, and I like to assume the best of people until proven otherwise!
So here's a smiley face!. Good smartassery sir!

Still haven't found any 5-40 or heavier threaded rod. Will try hardware stores today.

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by Formiga

....

It looks like it's a well thought out addition to a stock SCX. Mine isn't stock though. A trackbar or panhard and drag link need to be as close to parallel and the same length as possible to eliminate bump steer. The steering arms on the knuckle and the arm on your servo need to be parallel for equal steering side to side. So if you've changed anything on your SCX as far as steering and suspension, there's some tinkering that needs to be done....

The panhard and draglink need to be parallel in angle but not in placement. For instance with high steer knuckles such as yours, the draglink will always be higher unless you mount it under the arm. So it will be placed differently but the angle compared to the panhard should be close in angle. As you mentioned, some trickery can be required.

As far as the arms on servo and knuckles, its mostly true but you're allowed some play electronically via epa and trim adjustments.

Also the angle of the draglink compared to the tie rod isn't much of a concern being that the panhard will always locate the axle under the chassis. But a decently strong servo may be required to overcome the greater leverage it can create.

One question though, why lock the suspension in with a link? Seems like the only give would be the flex of the shock tower.

[Formiga]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

The panhard and draglink need to be parallel in angle but not in placement. For instance with high steer knuckles such as yours, the draglink will always be higher unless you mount it under the arm. So it will be placed differently but the angle compared to the panhard should be close in angle. As you mentioned, some trickery can be required.

As far as the arms on servo and knuckles, its mostly true but you're allowed some play electronically via epa and trim adjustments.

Also the angle of the draglink compared to the tie rod isn't much of a concern being that the panhard will always locate the axle under the chassis. But a decently strong servo may be required to overcome the greater leverage it can create.

One question though, why lock the suspension in with a link? Seems like the only give would be the flex of the shock tower.

Originally Posted by Formiga

...I used 2 - 55mm axial posts, and 4 axial short rod ends (10 mm from center of eye to base) to lock the suspension at mid height....

Not trying to replace the shocks with a solid link, wanted suspension at mid height to work out my link lengths.

An ideal panhard or trackbar would be parallel with the axle, and have the drag link parallel with it at mid height. Not really possible with the Hand Bros kit though. And never done on 1:1 vehicles. Steering arm on the knuckles, and servo arm should be parallel looking down on them, and looking at them from the side.
My setup will have the tie rod below the knuckle, and the drag link above it. Same length drag link and track bar, parallel to each other looking from the front, and top. Steering arms and servo arm will be parallel looking from the top and side. All easy enough to do, just takes some measuring and tinkering. Which I like doing! I mocked up an offset WOBlink and a parallel steering setup before ordering the Hand Bros CMS kit. No side to side axle movement, or bump steer. Just looked really stupid. Not scale at all.

On a side note, I couldn't find larger than 4-40 threaded rod. So I'll continue to mock up with it, and I ordered 10 feet of 3/8" delrin round stock. Thicker than I'd like, but is easy to ellipse on a lathe, and looks slick when done. I've got enough other things to tinker with until it gets here. I'll put some pictures up of my work tonight!