Another Newbie's Honcho

[zanthrax]

Hi,
I've been working on a Honcho, my first crawler, 3rd RC, for the past 3 months and thought I should show off what I've done so far since this board has been a lot of help.

Here it's is stock




After a few runs I started modding.
I didn't like the flexing in the plasic suspension links so I replaced those with DIY links made from Traxxas rod ends, M3 stainless rod and brass tubes. I covered that with black and white heat shrink tubing.


Since the RTR already includes the part needed to convert the front to 4 link suspension and I was making 6 new links, why not make 8? I didn't like to 3 link design and there was some play in the ball joint on the upper link at the side of the axle. I also figured out that using one of the metal balls that came with the Traxxas rod ends in that spot fixes that problem. But I wen't with 4 link anyway.

In hindsight I should have gotten the longer rod ends, just to be sure, and I should have used aluminum tubing painted flat black, I'm thinking that would look great when it gets scratched up.
I might try that some time, I'm thinking of making a second set of shorter links to mount a Dingo body. I've always liked that more than the Honcho and a shorter wheelbase means more ground clearance.
The skidplate looks cool but doesn't really work, the front axle doesn't get stuck that often anymore but it has lost a lot of ground clearance. I might make a smaller mounting bracket for it, I'll probably ditch it entirely.

The metal links improved the car a lot. But I wasn't happy about the axle mounted servo, it doesn't look right and it was rubbing on the frame. Because the front was now 4 linked, the servo also just had 2 mounting points on the axle left instead of 3.


I went with the Level3 CMS plate because I didn't see the need for a panhard bar.
I that picture you can also see a set of small plates I made to raise te front bumper a bit. In the stoch position it was getting caught on stuff way to much and I didn't like the idea of cutting it. The raised bumper does help but I'm currently figuring out how to braze or solder brass to make a custom front bumper.


The steering rod also Level3, the stock plastic one is way too bendy.

I added some accessories to the rear deck. The roofbars are M3 rod and brass tubing cover by heat shrink tubing, like the suspension links. I made them to fill up the holes left by a Proline roofrack that didn't look right, it was too large.


I also didn't like the speed, with the stock 27T motor it pops wheelies in reverse, not very scale. I switched to the 55T axial motor, it's cheap, gives scale speed with stock gearing and adds quite a bit of torque.


Todo:
- plasti dip the electronics, if I can find the stuff, so far I've only found the spraycans.
- get some beadlock wheels to try various tires.
- lift the truck a bit for more flex, might make some adapters, might just get longer shocks.

Some pictures from my last drive.

[zanthrax]

I built a new front bumper and roof rack using brass tubing and a butane torch.
What do you think?

[Crawl Wonder]

I think you have done a great job!

[Jus]

That bumper looks very professional. Great job.

[Dr.Newb]

That roofrack and bumper look store bought

[OFFROADRCKOREA]

Love the roof rack it looks sweet!

LIK

[Salojac]

Nice mods. Looks great.

I played around with links too. Up front I used wraith links with longer ends that come with axial parts tree and my servo clears the chassis and rails. I was thinking about CMS but the truck atriculates so well I left it alone.

Do you see a perofance hit with CMS?

[zanthrax]

Thanks,

The current setup didn't mess up the steering, it behaves pretty much like stock. The front axle does flex more smoothly now and it has a little more travel.

With any CMS that doesn't have a panhard rod you'll have a little bump steer.
After tweaking the steering link and adjusting the servo end points it works nice.
My whole point was to get 4 link suspension in the front like in the rear. Also, my stock servo was rubbing on the chassis rails at full flex.

A 4 link setup means that the servo loses 1 of it's 3 mounting points in the stock location, that and the rubbing servo made me want a CMS. I didn't want a panhard rod to go with the CMS since those make the axle move side to side when it moves up and down.

I may try to build a watt's linkage instead but that's more because I want to find out if I can. I'm guessing at this scale the smallest bit of play in any of the joints will make it useless.
This video shows my beef with panhard rods and why a watt's linkage might be better.

The next mod on the list will be to move the steering link to the back of the axle. If possible i'd like to get rid of the weird, reverse ackermann and maybe increase the approach angle.

[zanthrax]

A few more pictures.

Made a set of brass rock sliders, just because I wanted to.



I'm pretty proud if this, working lights on the roof rack without wires going into the body.


I made a hollow sleeping mat, inside is a plastic tube with a small switch and a few button cells. The cells and LEDs came from a 99 cent keychain flashlight.

[05Fronty4x]

Realize that your steering(drag) link is already acting like a panhard, and for smooth operation should be coupled with an actual panhard to take some stress off your servo. Your axle doesn't move side to side because it's locked in with the triangulated 4-link, but it's still trying to move (and should be allowed to with a CMS). People get away with your setup, but it definitely causes binding, or at the very least unneeded stress on the servo as the axle articulates.

[zanthrax]

That makes perfect sense, thanks!

[jjwiggs]

Nice sliders and LED's... Looking good zanthrax. If you can't find the platidip at the local hardware shop, buy it online.
Plasti Dip Protective Coating Products | Plasti Dip Protective Coating Products | Rubber Dip Coating

Good luck.

Originally Posted by zanthrax

A few more pictures.

Made a set of brass rock sliders, just because I wanted to.



I'm pretty proud if this, working lights on the roof rack without wires going into the body.


I made a hollow sleeping mat, inside is a plastic tube with a small switch and a few button cells. The cells and LEDs came from a 99 cent keychain flashlight.