building a scx10 for comps

[m1009cucv]

here is what i have been working on. i ran this for the first time today.. not to happy with it.. i made it way to tall. going to get rid of the lift kit. not to happy with the novak either.. not very smooth pretty jerky. not to sure why just yet..
rear flexes pretty good.. front very little.. i have the cms kit as you see.. there is binding somewhere.. the link hit the chassis too.


here is whats one the truck so far:
-Novak Goat 3S Brushless Engine/ESC with deans plug
-Super 300 CVD’s
-HiTec HS7950th
-5 xMayhem Engineering 1.9 Trail Shooters (black) (comes with an extra set of beadlocks)
-Lundsford titanium links (replaced all stock links)
-Vanquish Aluminum front and rear shock hoops - black
-Vanquish Aluminum Transmission Case – black
-Vanquish Incision Gear guard –black
-Vanquish high steer knuckles
-Robinson Racing hardened idler gear
-Robinson Racing hardened outdrive diff lock gear
-Beef Tubes
-MIP driveline
-Hand Bros Off Road CMS Kit
-DH Fabrication Sliders
-Axial aluminum c hub's
-Axial aluminum rear lockouts
-R2J four Link Truss
-replaced all the front steering pieces with axial aluminum links

looking for advice so i learn some and have a descent rig to start with.. thanks a lot

[KJ10]

Lose the lift and go full 4-link. The panhard bar is a flex limiter.

[Perkolator]

well your rig already seems to have everything on it....

i'd probably ditch the suspension lift - has a lot to do with regards to your commented "lack of flex" since you're using stock length shocks. if you can, i'd also try to lower your body and get your electronics mounted lower for a lower COG. everything adds up and every little bit will help. i can't comment on the panhard bar being a flex limiter since I don't run one yet, but i do know that your shocks are limiting things as-is and many rigs with panhard have great flex without complaint when everything meshes together nicely.

my setup is F/R axial 4-link with wraith shocks set in 80% droop. my body and electronics are pretty much as low as I can get them. i think front axle may be pushed forward a bit from stock location to make steering clear at full compression. with this setup it stays fairly well planted and crawls great and i'm no longer on my lid all the time.

i'm definitely not as seasoned as many here on RCC, but at least this might give a place to start improving your rig if you wanna be able to keep up. Ultimately, the best advice is to thoroughly test the rig after you make changes - it'll show you the pros/cons of the change and will only help improve your driving skills as you clock in more hours, which is probably more important than the actual rig's capability.

[cguit]

can u reverse the lift mounts and lower the truck? I'm thinking might be a bit top heavy that high off the ground.

[Paul B]

Basics, cut the sides off the front bumper, should still qualify as a "Stinger" if they're judging scale points. Second, your side bars are sticking out and hanging down a fair bit, once again, seems minor but both of these will make a difference. Last easy tweak is to pull off the lower steering link. Slide a straw over it and put it back on, if the straw is a hare loose it turns into a roller, keeps the steering from biting into rocks and sticking.

If you want it lifted so you're not cutting the body, for comps, go body lift, keeps the frame and all those heavy bits down low and just the shell up higher for wheel clearance. Can find or fab up some taller pins to hold the body in place. Should work well enough with some minor trimming to the front fenders.

[m1009cucv]

4 link the front instead of the 3 link? thought i had to go 3 link with the cms kit.. doesnt seem like the best kit. been thinking about putting the servo back on the axle or a another way to mount it. lift is gone.. trucks pretty heavy.. think i might need some better shocks.. looking at the junfac 103mm. on thought on them? lower the cg. ok got it.. not to sure how yet but ill work on it. perkolater, any pics of you rig? cguit, yes its real top heavy.. lift is off.. i have one with the bumper cut.. looking at it they do stick out a lot.. yes ill be cutting the body now.. thanks for the help i have some work to do

[KJ10]

I don't know anything about the CMS kit. 99% of my experience is in 1:1 so take that into acc't here but, basically, with the lift, the panhard was flexed upward while the rest of the suspension was relaxed. Thus, you get binding. At least, it makes sense in my redneck head. If you were to lift the lower mount of the panhard the same amount as the lift, or lower the upper mount, then you should be back to a geometry that works without binding.

[Paul B]

Hope that works, that's a full stick batt pack. with the 1.9's it fits, I've done the same thing with my sons honcho no 2.2's and simply run smaller, shorter packs or the tires will hit at full lock. I also have a light shell of a body on it so you don't have the weight of that roll cage up high. Also, I was running no side bars, no bumpers, just a jack with 2 body pins thru it on the hood. Basically the points I lost for scale details I more than made up with by the performance I gained.

Almost forgot, if you want to be serious about comping it, overdrive the front or under drive the rear diff. it will greatly help with your climbs and tighten up your turning radius a bit.

[heinie_21]

Cool paint job.

Lose the lift. Get 1.9 pit bulls

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[kaneohecrawler]

Originally Posted by KJ10

Lose the lift and go full 4-link. The panhard bar is a flex limiter.

Originally Posted by diazannetto

The panhard bar is a flex limiter.

These are both absolute incorrect statements.
Plus in scale flex isnt everything. One day you guys will figure it out.

As far as "suspension articulation" goes.. all you need is for any 1 tire to lift the height of the tires u run. Anymore than that is excessive. And not needed.

Just get ur truck balanced where your comfortable with. Lower it back down and put some pitbulls on it.

[m1009cucv]

thanks for the help.. i have 2.2 pitbulls. im going to get some smaller 3s packs for this truck.. i think im going to sell the novak and buy a HH motor and esc.. thinking about a 2 speed as well..

[CiLyX]

I have standard shocks that run 15wt 2.2 pit bulls, and 2 2200mah 3s nanotechs. on a hh with 45t tekin and it's almost unstoppable! Flex isn't everything traction and keeping that nose planted is. like stated above if any higher than your wheel is not needed and will just throw out your balance.

[m1009cucv]

i lowered it a good bit.. its better. not great but working on it... i have been thinking of selling off the brushless set up.. not as a good as i thought it would be.. going for a HH motor and esc.. thanks for the posting up

[johnnyh66]

Originally Posted by m1009cucv

thanks for the help.. i have 2.2 pitbulls. im going to get some smaller 3s packs for this truck.. i think im going to sell the novak and buy a HH motor and esc.. thinking about a 2 speed as well..

all you need for comps is 900mah - 1300mah depending on motor.
They weigh almost nothing.

As kaneohecrawler said, shoot for 1 tire height (or less) of articulation.

A CMS adds scale points and a panhard bar works great but takes a lot of tweaking to set up correctly.
I have one on my C3 but not my C2 (and the C2 is 4 linked w/CMS)

Weight in the wheels.

trim the bumper, you don't want it to get hung up.

Feel free to read through my Buxom Melons thread in my sig.
It's a proven comp winning SCX10 that started as a stock rig... I documented about every step.