Recommend me some Dingo upgrades for G6 use.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by scottanthony

Shave those bumpers down to a sliver ..!

Pic of your shaved down Dingo bumper?

Originally Posted by 65BAJA

Right at 8"

Thanks!

[Solitaire]

As previously mentioned, lose the dig and that will relax the driveshaft angle a bit. You can still clock the rear diff up a bit more with longer upper links. It's also imperative that you get as much weight up front as you can with the Dingo. Battery mounted crossways on the frame just ahead of the tranny is the ideal spot. The Dingo's short wheelbase is not as well-balanced as the longer Honcho and tends to tip over backwards on steep inclines.

[65BAJA]

Wheelbase currently sits at 12 1/8" I pushed the rear end back about 1/2". Battery will be mounted sideways in front. I just need to figure out how to mount the ESC and receiver to avoid water.

[boisetrucker]

You can put the rx and esc in a balloon to help water proof it. I put a balloon on, zip tie, grease or silicon, then another zip tie. I have also used small plastic boxes with a notch cut for the wires and then put shoe goo on it to seal it up.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2

[65BAJA]

Aww bugger! I went through Harley's 3 position dig set up routine for my radio and my dig servo wouldn't stop buzzing. I tried several different servos (Futaba S3010, HiTec HS-625MG, and an old Futaba S28 ) and they were all a little wonky (except the ancient futaba S28 go figure). Then I remembered that I have my castle voltage reg set to 7.4 volts for the 7954 steering servo. So Now I need a HV standard servo if I want this dig to work. Oh well.

I know you guys say to get rid of it but I already bought it and I like the idea of dig. So I'm going to try to make it work for now. Maybe I'll take it off later if making it work keeps giving me the business. lol

[HONCHO22]

good lipo's,a winch, and good friends,and you can G6 a stock scx10 if ya want

[65BAJA]

Finally got the last servo and my lights in. Now I can finnish my Dingo. I mounted a Servo winch on the front last night. This thing is gonna be sweet. I'm going to try to take it out to the rodeo grounds this weekend to get some footage.

[65BAJA]

Cooked my ESC somehow. 😡 Do I buy one local for $99 plus tax? Or order from Tower for $85 and miss wheeling this weekend?

[BodiBuilt]

Well I know this isn't the answer you were looking for, but iffin' I was gonna drop $100 on a new esc it would be a BR-XL from Holmes Hobbies

[65BAJA]

I may just do that. There is another LHS that might have one. I'll call them in the morning.

[Techtonic]

Originally Posted by scottanthony

Shave those bumpers down to a sliver and MiP drivelines are a must....! Try to also find yourself a 7-12T motor in case you fall behind, (you'll need to catch up w/a 35T)...
2 1/2 sticks of weight per tire and move the battery in front of the gear cover (sideways) on the framerails.
Your best bet as a first timer is to come and see what G-6in is all about. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/compe...3-reno-nv.html

You are close hopefully we'll see you there...!

Need to catch up how? are there sprints between stages? Not sure how the G6 goes down.. or why you'd need a 7t motor. fill me in

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by BodiBuilt

Well I know this isn't the answer you were looking for, but iffin' I was gonna drop $100 on a new esc it would be a BR-XL from Holmes Hobbies

Or a Tekin FXR.

Originally Posted by Techtonic

Need to catch up how? are there sprints between stages? Not sure how the G6 goes down.. or why you'd need a 7t motor. fill me in

That was a joke, 7t motor is way too low turn for G6.

[65BAJA]

Wheelspeed on 2s wasn't working for me so started converting it to 3s today. Set the LVC in the FXR to 9.9 volts. Now I need a Y harness or something to run the NVS off of the BEC instead of direct from the battery. Hopefully a 10A BEC will run all 3 servos and the NVS. Two of the servos (dig and winch) are hardly ever used but I now have almost all the light ports in the NVS full.

I picked up a 4x2x1 project box from Radioshack to protect the ESC, BEC and the receiver. It's pretty full with everything in there. I'll put up some more pics later.

[nissan_driver24]

Some pointers I hope that might help:

1) Since you are using overdrives in the front match them in the rear or go back to stock. When you G6 the rig will be going through sometimes hours of continous driving which over under just create more drag which can cause problems in your drive train, motor, esc, etc. I know it works really well for just crawling but G6n isn't just crawling.

2) Use a good winch and learn how to use it quickly. Don't let it "drift" nothing sucks more than having a winch that isn't working properly, broken, or a pain to use or breaks in the middle of a G6. Also use a good winch line to keep you from having to fix the line.

3) Get rid of the dig, more crap to go wrong and if it isn't set properly it can cause you problem especially with the external BEC, the dig can help but not enough with the amount of problems I can give you, plus the rear driveline angles becomes too steep with it installed which will cause driveline problems and binding.

4) Keep weight out of the drive train, I know a lot of people like to have weight in their wheels/tires, yes it does help with crawling but I found that having the extra weight cause brushed motors to burn up especially when your going for miles or hours non stop. using metal axles, and keeping the weight forward and low could get the same crawling ability.

5) Batteries: have as many as you can get - the more mah the better, doesn't matter if it's 3s or 2s or whatever the size, I use small 2250mah batteries which only last about 75 to 100 gates per battery (I run the Ultra Class so the truck sometimes at full throttle for longer periods of time and 3 speed controller and 1 bec is hooked to one battery) run time can be effected by the condition your rig is in like locked up bearings, worn motor, cold weather, or even the course (ie fishing line, sand, mud, birthday cake) so even though you can get 2 hour run time at a GTG you might get a lot less during a G6.

6) Waterproofing. Do whatever you can do to waterproof your rig, everyone has the own way of doing it. Just make sure you do it (better safe than sorry)

7) I tell everyone at work that the one thing you can't buy is Skills. So pratice pratice pratice makes perfect or at least close to perfect. GTG are a great way to pratice with a scaler.

These are some of the thing that came to my mind when reading your original post. I'm sure there are many that would disagree to some of my points but this is what has worked for me. See you at the next G6


Here's a video of one of my G6 Ultra ride. For any other ideas you can get from it.
This is built only for RECON G6 with 2 years experience G6n.

[65BAJA]

Originally Posted by nissan_driver24

Some pointers I hope that might help:

1) Since you are using overdrives in the front match them in the rear or go back to stock. When you G6 the rig will be going through sometimes hours of continous driving which over under just create more drag which can cause problems in your drive train, motor, esc, etc. I know it works really well for just crawling but G6n isn't just crawling.

2) Use a good winch and learn how to use it quickly. Don't let it "drift" nothing sucks more than having a winch that isn't working properly, broken, or a pain to use or breaks in the middle of a G6. Also use a good winch line to keep you from having to fix the line.

I have one of the QS winches on order but I'm probably 6 months out at the going rate.

3) Get rid of the dig, more crap to go wrong and if it isn't set properly it can cause you problem especially with the external BEC, the dig can help but not enough with the amount of problems I can give you, plus the rear driveline angles becomes too steep with it installed which will cause driveline problems and binding.

4) Keep weight out of the drive train, I know a lot of people like to have weight in their wheels/tires, yes it does help with crawling but I found that having the extra weight cause brushed motors to burn up especially when your going for miles or hours non stop. using metal axles, and keeping the weight forward and low could get the same crawling ability.

The tires are glued on so no going back there. I would like to pick up a set of VP/OMF beadlocks and some Pitbulls in the future so maybe then.

5) Batteries: have as many as you can get - the more mah the better, doesn't matter if it's 3s or 2s or whatever the size, I use small 2250mah batteries which only last about 75 to 100 gates per battery (I run the Ultra Class so the truck sometimes at full throttle for longer periods of time and 3 speed controller and 1 bec is hooked to one battery) run time can be effected by the condition your rig is in like locked up bearings, worn motor, cold weather, or even the course (ie fishing line, sand, mud, birthday cake) so even though you can get 2 hour run time at a GTG you might get a lot less during a G6.

I was running 6600 mah 2s packs but have switched to 2500 3s packs. Of which I have 4.

6) Waterproofing. Do whatever you can do to waterproof your rig, everyone has the own way of doing it. Just make sure you do it (better safe than sorry)

All the vital vittles are in a radio shack box all sealed up.

7) I tell everyone at work that the one thing you can't buy is Skills. So pratice pratice pratice makes perfect or at least close to perfect. GTG are a great way to pratice with a scaler.

I have been going to the rodeo grounds as much as I can since the car has been together. Be nice when it starts staying lighter later and I can find a crawl spot on the way home.

These are some of the thing that came to my mind when reading your original post. I'm sure there are many that would disagree to some of my points but this is what has worked for me. See you at the next G6


Here's a video of one of my G6 Ultra ride. For any other ideas you can get from it.
This is built only for RECON G6 with 2 years experience G6n.

Wow. That is a clean setup you have there with the wiring.

[nissan_driver24]

Originally Posted by 65BAJA

Wow. That is a clean setup you have there with the wiring.

Thanks!

It's too bad Neil hasn't made the QS winches for a while, dunno really why but it's by far the best winch there is out there right now in the market.

[65BAJA]

So the Dingo has been together for a little while now. I went up and did the Oroville G6 with it, along with a few local G2G's. I've been using a 3s 3700 as the main battery with the 4 2500's as backup. No major problems with it. Very happy with how well it works.

I have had some small problems though. The screws that hold the C hubs on to the front housing are kinda stripped and the shocks leak oil like a sieve. For the axle problem I think a Currie housing may be in my future. They just look so cool. For the shocks I installed a set of Revo GTR shocks with yellow Jato front springs. The rate on the yellow springs (4lb/in)are about the same as stock but even with the #1 pistons (biggest hole) and only 15wt oil the dampening is way too stiff. The #1 pistons are supposed to be 1.0 mm I think. I think I will try to drill them out to 1.58 mm (1/16"). I might have to go back up on the oil wt at that point though. We will see.

I would post current pics but my star died and I'm saving my scrilla for Cisco Grove/Axial Fest 2013 tickets. So the star will have to wait.

[cox308]

Idk why people are telling you to ditch the dig? IMO that is the best thing you can run when trying to make all the gates with tight turns. The hurts dig is top shelf stuff. It shouldn't give you any problems. I take mine apart and cleans and lube it about every 3-5 packs.

As far as your rig. Definetly need to improve your rear driveshaft angle like others said above.

If you're going to ditch anything, ditch that front 3 link and install a 4 link.

I'd also get some wider hex's up front. Your tire is too close to the knuckle arm and will get literally wrapped up on the thing.

Also agree with shaving the bumper.

Edit: I didn't even see that there was a second page to this thread when I wrote this! You've probably squared away all this stuff already! Lol

[Debonair]

Originally Posted by 65BAJA

I would post current pics but my star died and I'm saving my scrilla for Cisco Grove/Axial Fest 2013 tickets. So the star will have to wait.

Just use photobucket until you can get another star.

[65BAJA]

Originally Posted by cox308

Idk why people are telling you to ditch the dig? IMO that is the best thing you can run when trying to make all the gates with tight turns. The hurts dig is top shelf stuff. It shouldn't give you any problems. I take mine apart and cleans and lube it about every 3-5 packs.

I'll probably go through it before Axialfest just to be safe.

As far as your rig. Definetly need to improve your rear driveshaft angle like others said above.

I still need to work on this.

If you're going to ditch anything, ditch that front 3 link and install a 4 link.

Done with a metal BPC 4 link servo mount.

I'd also get some wider hex's up front. Your tire is too close to the knuckle arm and will get literally wrapped up on the thing.

I have the Traxxas wider hexes up front now. Still not as much clearance as I would like but it does clear.

Also agree with shaving the bumper.

Been thinking about replacing the bumpers. Just haven't found ones I like.

Edit: I didn't even see that there was a second page to this thread when I wrote this! You've probably squared away all this stuff already! Lol

Almost all of it.