Recommend me some Dingo upgrades for G6 use.

[65BAJA]

I'm in the middle of building a Dingo kit that I would like to use for G6 events. I have never participated in a G6 event though so I'm not sure what all to upgrade.

So far I have

Robinson steel idler
Robinson hardened aluminum machined diff gear
VP 8* stage 1 upgrade kit (chubs, knuckles, and lockouts)
VP Ti tie rod and drag link
Axial HD overdrive front ring and pinion
Hurst dig
4 link rear with bent lowers
About 1/2" more rear wheelbase


Planned upgrades

Trinity Cobalt Flatwire motor rebuilt by EddieO with a new 35T (I think) armature
winch of some sort--I have a QS on order (crickets....)
lights
beadlock wheels and Flat Irons if I can swing it.

This is my first axial and my first G6 event. Are there any other things the Dingo will need?

[Joe$]

I haven't run a g6 yet either but I have run a koh and I'd say run it with the upgrades you have and then replace whatever breaks after the race with better stuff and or upgrade to get better performance in the areas you felt you were lacking in. From my experience you can mod things all day and then get to the race and break something you didn't think of upgrading. Also bring all your spare parts if you have a pit area and time allowed for repairs. Oh and have fun

[AddictedtoRC1]

I don't really see the need for a dig unit in a G6 rig. If you were comping in Class 3 then yeah, but running G6 it's not needed. Save the bread you would spend on that and get yourself a good set of tires. Pitbulls, Iroks, Roc Lox........something along those lines.

[gottorque]

When it comes to G6s your gonna need quite a bit of battery power, so that would be a wise investment as well.

[65BAJA]

Made some progress with the assembly. I went ahead with the dig unit but it did cause some difficulties. I had to turn the transmission around from what it showed in the instructions. Also had to extend the rear wheelbase 10mm with bent arms. Re used the stock lowers for the new uppers. The rear drive shaft is still at max angle.

[scottanthony]

Shave those bumpers down to a sliver and MiP drivelines are a must....! Try to also find yourself a 7-12T motor in case you fall behind, (you'll need to catch up w/a 35T)...
2 1/2 sticks of weight per tire and move the battery in front of the gear cover (sideways) on the framerails.
Your best bet as a first timer is to come and see what G-6in is all about. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/compe...3-reno-nv.html

You are close hopefully we'll see you there...!

[Arctic Fire]

Put an extension in your upper rear links to sort out that drive line angle.

[Erin]

Plenty of battery is the main concern, all the parts in the world are for not if you dont finish.

Clock your rear up with longer uppers like was said, the rest looks damn good and should hold up fine. I would ditch the dig as well, just something else to go wrong on course.

dont forget plenty of scale goodies as well lol, Parker likes those

[65BAJA]

How much battery should I have? I ran the old TLT crawler with a 1300mah 3s pack. I also have some 6600 mah 2 cell packs. I was planning on running the 2 cell packs with a 35T motor. Is that a bad combo?

Oh, I also straightened the lowers by 3mm and spaced the uppers by 4mm. Pinion angle is a little better and the binding is gone.

[BodiBuilt]

Hey BAJA, look's like your off to a nice start!

By the way, we are practically neighbors... we should hook up sometime for a crawl session

[65BAJA]

I think I'll have it finished around Wednesday. I would like to go to the G6 next weekend in Reno.

[Erin]

I run 1300's too. Normal trail running Im good for 35-45mins a pack. 35t motor w a good amount of timing, tall gearing, and about a 8lb rig.

The big packs last a long time but they are just too damn big and heavy for me.

[gottorque]

Originally Posted by 65BAJA

I think I'll have it finished around Wednesday. I would like to go to the G6 next weekend in Reno.

The Terra X G6 ...I have a feeling its gonna be a brushless fest, so I donno if im gonna go or not, simply cause its racing and not gate to gate like normal

Sent from a rock

[Joe$]

for the batteries i would say you'll have to do some testing to see how long they last for you and adjust to suit. i know that you dont want to be going down the trail and die then waste valuable time changing packs. i would run the big 2s pack personally but it depends on how long it lasts. think about saddle pack or dual packs saddle style over the sliders.

[gottorque]

My 3300 last me a good 2 hours in my 1.9 jeep with a 45t motor in it.
With scalers you should always try and run the biggest battery you can fit in there, I think. Adds weight and that adds to the realism


Sent from a rock

[Arctic Fire]

I'd rock the big pack too! Your Driveline looks better now. I use 5000mah 2s and my 35t tekin HD is good for about an hour of real work. I always er on the side of bigger battery, I hate changing them. Before I had the 5000's I used two 3000 stacked and already in place, then changing jsut meant switching the deans connector, and your back oni the trail.

I've even tucked away a tiny 1200mah battery now that I run my 5000mah. It's like a reserve fuel tank that will get me through to the next battery change spot. The deans are located down with extension wires so all the connecter changing can be done without removing the shell.

The 1200 is really tiny, and great for about 20 minutes of real work, or 35 of trail running. I don't know why more people don't use this during comps!

[ROLANDROCKSHOP]

a bone stock honcho made it thru our G6 (@5hours) with a few repairs.

heres my G6 honcho build thread
RolandRockshop last minute G6 honcho build

had to change the battery out twice all day..


id ditch the dig unit as well..
and do the over/under drive gear mod..36/14 upfront and 43/13 in rear
will help in turning and vertical climbs

[65BAJA]

I have stock gears in the rear and overdrive gears in the front. I'm going to try to finish it tomorrow and take it to the local rodeo grounds for trials.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by 65BAJA

How much battery should I have? I ran the old TLT crawler with a 1300mah 3s pack. I also have some 6600 mah 2 cell packs. I was planning on running the 2 cell packs with a 35T motor. Is that a bad combo?

Oh, I also straightened the lowers by 3mm and spaced the uppers by 4mm. Pinion angle is a little better and the binding is gone.

1300 3s or 2200 3s is good in SCX, buy 3 or 4 so that you have enough juic just in case. These smaller light lipos make it crawl way better, I borrowed a 5000 2s (not even 3s) once and my chit wanted to flop way too often! My Honcho gets about 1 hour with 45T and Tekin FXR on 1300 3s....Wraith fiinished Reno G6 with about 2.5 batteries worth of this same battery!

EDIT: btw how wide overall is the Dingo front bumper?

[65BAJA]

Originally Posted by Natedog

EDIT: btw how wide overall is the Dingo front bumper?

Right at 8"