RCCrawler Forums

Jus

Your wiring looks fantastic. I wish I could make it look that organized. I try but rarely succeed.

mrerok

just read through the entire thread. i'm new to all this, but i know a quality build when i see one! very well done!

nissan_driver24

Alright guys! I want to thank you guys for all of the awesome comments! It really helps motivate me to keep this build thread going. I love the comments keep them coming

So a few weeks back I made another order with VP for this build and here's what I got!!!

Two 4 inch lights bars, One 5 inch light bar, One 6 inch light bar with JK mount, and VP Brass Knuckle weights set. Also the Front VP Shock Hoops which I didn't get from the last order. I also got rid of the stock shocks and swap them out for Proline Scaler shocks.



To start off I installed the VP Brass Knuckle weights.

Weight of the Weights lol between 2 of them in just the front axles is almost 7 oz total, I will be getting additional add on rings to add more weight for the front axles.







A picture of the wheels with the weight behind it, you barely notice it! Also for those that don't know these weights do fit with their OMF 1.9 wheels even if you use 350 hubs. There's enough clearance with these awesome wheels.



Now the beginning of the light install.
These look amazing.


So I bought the lights with an idea on installing them, without ever seeing anyone else doing it I decided to just pull the trigger and just try and here it is partially started.

I spent a lot of time trying to install the lights and make it look clean, between shrink tubing and using rubber autmotive groments to keep the wires from being damage from the sharp edges on the body reamed holes.










So I put the 5 inch in after the Hood in front of the lower windshield. So far majority of people that has seen this do not like it, especailly the girlfriend she thinks too much is going on in the front of the window area, I would have put the light bar on the front of the hood but where it's located right now is a good place to keep it protected during a roll over. What do you guys think? Please let me know! If I change it I plan on using two 1 inch light bars on on each side to not just waste the holes I reamed into the body. I am in between with this decision so again your guys opinion is greatly apprecaited.


Here's a couple of pictures of the Proline Scaler shocks I installed, I used the longer rod end which made the shocks 95mm. With that length it allows at full flex no rubbing of tires on the stock body/fenders. These shocks are by far my favorite scaler shocks, every single rig I own has to have them because they work so well.



LAST Pic for this update, I figured I would post this cause she's so cute, we just got another dog so meet my new puppy name Cali she's a full breed German Shepherd. Today while taking some pics she played barked at it and was very curious about the Jeep.



So guys I hope you enjoyed this update, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE your comments are much appreaciated. Now it's time to work on this Jeep again.

Wraith913

I think I agree with the girlfriend there's too much going on infront of the windshield what about the 4'' on the bumper

buddamonk

Looks great! What i would ve done is install that lightbar on the bumper if you re not planning to get a winch. I saw some 1:1 rigs having the same there.

Love your puppy too! May i ask if you re vietnamese due to the "pham" in your nick.

nissan_driver24

I am starting to agree with ya during the write up lol, I'm not setting anything on the bumper because it isn't staying stock, I will have a winch (Quicksand) so lights on the bumper are up in the air.

Thanks!!! Like above the bumper isn't set in stone yet and a winch will be installed but I'm not sure how yet even. I am full blood Vietnamese, speak it fluently (although not many people in the rc community know it). Pham is my last name.

Antisimplistic

Nice clean install. Love the grommets and shrink wrap. I agree the bar on the hood is too much. I have a 20" to be mounted on my 1:1 hood. Even 30" looks big on the real deal.

scottanthony

Love the lights.....! One bad ass Rig!!

flarezfx

I actually like the lights! but I can see how others may not like it. I certainly makes it look unique.

Pham, those blue wheel clamping hex's you have on it. For the life of me I thought I saw you mention them in another post and you refered them to as Traxxis hex, but I can't find it. I'm trying get some parts together for a build and I like the idea of clamping instead of the traditional pin. Could you give me a more info on these (part id) I live in Australia and shipping is crazy expensive which leaves very little wiggle room in the buget for experimentation. I'II be running VP OMF 1.9 wheels, 600 hubs with the stage 1 kit.

Thanks and awesome build. Your wiring skills are impressive.

DRTMI

Hot racing makes clamping hexes in different colors.

cazper51

What a killer build. I cant wait to see more of it.

The Doc

Mike the lights on the hood have to go!! Way too much light and in real life the lights on the hood would be wasted light.

Now that I got that off my chest

Theres more candy on this than in a store.

nissan_driver24

Thank you, I am starting to lean towards the hood one being too mucch. In the 1:1 world I like to build fast and drift cars, so it's really hard to have a 1:1 background which guys like you do know about.

Thank You Hopefully I'll see you at the next RECON G6

Thank You for the kind words. As for the Hex about the Traxxas Slash 2wd Front Hex would be used when VP 8degree hubs and chubs the stock offset wheels and tires rub on the steering arm so you would use those hex to give the extra clearance since they are almost double the thickness of a stock Axial SCX-10 aluminum Hex.

As for your build which sounds very similar to mine I would recommend what I used on my Jeep JK. Here is the part number off the tag: Hot Racing SLF1006 blue alum. lock-pin wheel hex slf. Like DRTMI stated they probably come in different colors but that's all my work had in stock so that's why they are blue. Good luck on your build

Agreed!

Working on it right now, I like to take my time to try to do it right the first time. Stay tuned!

Hahaha Mike I knew you were gonna say that. They will probably have to go, but there's nothing wrong with candy

The Doc

Hell....I just thought, my Toyota needs a light bar, take it off and sent it. You know where

A little more work and some red paint and you know what!!

perseus71

Hi, I realy like your solution of the esc with the box and the great work on the wireing! So your esc is watherproof now but your motor isn't. What are you going to do to make the motor waterproof?

Cheers
Rene

nissan_driver24

What I have done so far with the motor to keep water out of it is seal all of the unused motor mount holes with set screws and that's about it. The biggest issue with this are the sensors in the motor, they hate moisture so when they go bad they don't work properly and you end up running sensorless, other than that the motor still works in water.(I have ran a Tekin Redline 17.5t completely submerg in water before and lost sensors until it dried out) I am still working on some how better waterproof that motor. I'll post something as soon as I find out what I'm gonna use.

mtgrizzlymn

Where are you putting the battery?

nissan_driver24

Up in the air, but as of right now it will probably go up front just like a Honcho over the servo and Axial RX box.

Thank You! Update on my next post

Wraith913

Update on my next post [/QUOTE]

Exited for that

nissan_driver24

IT'S ALIVE!!! 2 nights ago I spent all night working on the rig and got it half alive 5 in the morning and running the next day. Although it's no where near done, it drives though, finally got to drive this thing on my living room floor after 3 months of owning it. All I can say about this Tekin ROC 412 motor is WOW it is so buttery smooth very impressed with it.

Anyways, here's my UPDATE. Again guys the comments and feedback are awesome, I really appreaciate it!

Let start off with the next Box, I used a Traxxas Slash 2wd RX box to house the follow items: Tekin FXR, Tekin B1R, and a Castle BEC. I know it's not super pretty because this was a really tough one to pull off. The box had 2 holes on the bottom of them so they had to be sealed which I did with some counter sunk screws and locknuts. With those screws in the way they interfered with how the items were organized in the box. Anyways here it all is!




One of the tough point on this was that I want to use one battery for all electronics and this box would be the hub where all power go through and there had to be another set of wires where this would connect to the Tekin RS in the back.



Now! next was to seal my last piece of electronic which is the Airtronics Receiver which I used a Traxxas Stampede RX box but I want to make it water proof but still able to connect and disconnect the ESC, servo, bec, etc with out having to open the box. So I got a bunch of servo lead extensions to extend the plugs to be outside of the box.

I started with a clean way to roll the RX antenna the coaxial wire is really annoying to use because it doesn't seem to ever want to go where I want it to go so I used a nut and cap head screw to roll the coaxial wire around and wrapped it in shrink tubing, I know you guys are all going WTF!!! what about reception of the radio but I have done this because and it worked fine.





I scribed in the lead connectors to know exactly what each wire is for.



Finally done 4 rx wires and the other two are sensor wires for the telementry : Temp Sensor for Motor, and RPM sensor which will be for speed sensor.




Finally I installed the two boxes. Shortened or lengthened and leads or wires. I also tried my best to make it all clean. What do you guys think???






Lastly for this update I installed with I believe is the best 1/10 scale servo that could be used on a Scale Crawler at the moment a Futaba BLS172HV aka Futaba BLS157HV.
Specs: High Voltage 2s Lipo Compatible, Speed 0.11 sec/60° at 7.4V and Torque 513.9oz/in (37.0kg/cm) at 7.4V very impressive specs



Coupled with a Clamping Aluminum Servo Horn. Futaba splines are 25 incase anyone wants to know





That's it for this update, it was a lot of work but I think it was all worth it, one of my pride is wiring something neatly and cleanly, again Let me know what you guys thinks. AND stay tuned for the next update.