Sanity check: SCX10 Honcho rear articulation?

[Cr00zah]

Trying to get some articulation from the rear of a stock suspended Honcho: are the only options to add weight to the rear and use relocated longer shocks? Not looking to lift it. Front flexes nicely. Any other suggestions?

[diesel kawboy]

Did you cut the rear bumpstops off?

[Kykrawler]

For a short time I removed the second smaller spring from the stock shocks and ran the single larger spring, also while loosening the compression adjustment. And definitely place some wheel weights, you'll notice the difference and it will help keep the tires down and planted where they need to be. Hope that helps dude!

[Cr00zah]

Originally Posted by Kykrawler

For a short time I removed the second smaller spring from the stock shocks and ran the single larger spring, also while loosening the compression adjustment. And definitely place some wheel weights, you'll notice the difference and it will help keep the tires down and planted where they need to be. Hope that helps dude!

Ah, thanks for the suggestions, I'll give these a try!

And yes I've removed the shock bumpstops.

[05Fronty4x]

I'm assuming you have the battery forward, and nothing really on the rear except the spare tire. It will be tough to get the full shock travel with the stock medium (green) springs without some additional weight. When I ran the stock shocks in the rear I replaced the medium springs with super softs (reds) before I even drove the thing, and still had the preload adjustment loosened all the way. This was with a 3s 2200mah pack on the rear. When I started running very light 3s 1320mah packs (85 grams) even the softest Axial springs weren't soft enough for my taste so I ended up robbing the rear shocks off my old Losi MF2 truck which are a bit longer than the Axials so I angled them forwards a bit with 2.6lb springs. Plenty (too much, really) of flex now.

[jjwiggs]

Originally Posted by Cr00zah

Ah, thanks for the suggestions, I'll give these a try!

And yes I've removed the shock bumpstops.

Does removing the bumpstops actually help? I might try it out and see! I moved my shocks from this position || to this / \ and it helps out some. Plus I modified my front bumper to allow for more clearance; I was finding the bumper was limiting the crawling quite a bit.

[05Fronty4x]

Originally Posted by jjwiggs

Does removing the bumpstops actually help? I might try it out and see! I moved my shocks from this position || to this / \ and it helps out some. Plus I modified my front bumper to allow for more clearance; I was finding the bumper was limiting the crawling quite a bit.

Removeing them doesn't offer much more total up travel since the axle housing will hit the crossmember before the shocks bottom out, but twisting articulation is increased nicely (which is what we are looking for in a crawler). Also, you may find that the Axial 4-link truss supports that run outwards and mount to the top of the axle housing will hit the frame on extreme articulation. I heated and curved them towards the axle which gave a bit more upwards articulation. Depending on the shock setup this may or may not be of any benefit. With an angled shock the potential up-travel is usually increased (depending on how much you angle, and how high/low you mount the top), this is when I realized the clearance limitation of the truss. I have my Losi 4" shocks angled and mounted a little bit lower than stock configuration. The goal was to get the same amount of droop as a stock setup, but much more up travel with a longer shock.

[Cr00zah]

Thanks for the wisdom, 05Fronty4x. Yes I still have the battery forward as well - truck is basically stock.

I am not looking for absurd flex out of the rear, just some. I have the preload completely backed off both ends, imho the front works very nicely, but the rear doesn't do much. I'll fuss with the shock mounting and springs and redistribute weight. Thanks again.

BTW is anyone aware of the actual spring rates of the various Axial colors?

[Jus]

The back end of the honcho is pretty light. What will help the most is adding weight to the tires.. I run the same amount front and rear.

[jthellfire911]

4link the rear helps aswell. running longer shocks but running a ziptie in the center of the axle keeps the cog down but allows full flex.

[Nocturnalsixer]

What i found works the best for me was to relocate my electronics to center of my chassis then notch the rear crossmember to let axle through at full compression and remove the front frame support right behind the bumper above the servo if you have servo mounted on the axle..if you want more flex go longer shocks i got my losi 4" at 50/50 droop it works very good.

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[Dad,Canyoufix?]

Adding 2oz to spare in the rear and 4.5oz to each front and 3oz to each rear keeps the rubber down well on this rig also have 120mm HR shocks with soft springs in the front and med in the rear and they react quite well after some modification and break in/lubing. If I don't roll on the way up I don't on the way down(Most of the time >.<).