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Titan/Navara Build Im pretty new to rc crawlers but Ive had rc's for ages so i know my way around fairly well. This is a thread for my SCX10 build. I contemplated a few different platforms but I feel this was the best RTR package vs cost and also has a lot of aftermarket options. Obviously I am a navara/titan fan so I wanted to make a similar truck to my Nissan navara. Here is a few picks of mine and some trucks I like and would like to try and mod my rc to look like. I write way to much so if its too long dont read just look at the pics :P My Truck http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...F3F5C254E9.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...pse9c43228.jpg http://images.mautofied.com/adphotos...6301924481.JPG http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...0r/navara1.jpg I started the build in the noob thread but I wanted to keep progress of it in a tidy format. I also got some suggestions on how to cut out bodies (what works for me) and some interesting ideas to play with nothing ground breaking I am not claiming to be an expert in fact quite the opposite but getting a bit of inspiration from seeing what other people have done can help get you some motivation to try something different your self. So it started off as a regular Scx10, I was running it pretty hard in dusty conditions so its no surprise the stock 27t motor died. Few photos of it new and in the creek bed. I already had a holms hobby BR-XL waterproof esc and 45 turn torque master pro combo ready to drop in. Which just needs the motor wires soldered on. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...F39C42715D.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...F3C2FAFD32.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...F3D60A212F.jpg I mirrored the trans and had to make my own spaces by cutting out the spur plate to get it to fit. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...0/IMG_0399.jpg Then I got a set of pro comp bead-lock wheels and mounted up some Baja Claws and the JK bumper fitted up very happy with them both. The claws need to have the foams cut a little they don't bite as well as the ripsaws. Im going to try running them backwards and cutting off some lugs as well. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps53d921d1.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psa36939ca.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psc93029c4.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psc1ca069d.jpg I bought the level 3 rc lift kit and chassis mounts servo with pan hard. The lift kit was OK but you don't gain any articulation with the lift so I bought some new longer 110mm shocks from the local hobby store. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd1bdcd7.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psd4ffa9da.jpg They are very smooth, soft with great dampening. Yet to test them but they look like they will do the trick. I got rid of the chassis mounted servo i just didn't like it and after upgrading the front to 4link it was limiting up travel. Level 3 rc lift kit vs longer shocks http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps63dee196.jpg 4link front http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psc6c2d16c.jpg I thought i had acquired a proline titan body but they just advertised that they still had them and didnt. So with a refund later I ended up getting 2 Nissan titan parma shells. They leave a bit to be desired but half the fun is customizing things to the way you want. I tested the paint job (and practiced masking painted etc) on a 1/10th Mitsubishi evo shell I have for my drift car. Also added some aluminum mesh to the front of the car which I plan on doing to the navara/titan as well. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps900a8ee0.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psca4f4d04.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2921edad.jpg Started cutting out the body, something i noticed is this lexan is thicker then most bodies so its a tiny bit harder to work with but the way I found success was a combination of curved lexan scissors and the score and snap technique. I absolutely hate the wheel arches so I made a pattern up from my claws and ripsaws to give them a better more round shape in stead of it dragging out. Note the tear drop shape towards the back instead of a circular wheel well http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps416d96d1.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psbc26d6a8.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psd53ff64e.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0e35f22d.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0e35f22d.jpg TIP: if your having trouble with wheel arches the best thing you can do is go slow. I normally start the arch off with the curved scissors leaving a 1mm or 2mm from the line. I cut along the line until the body starts to get in the road and then i stop. With a exacto/hobby knife score from the end of your scissors cut straight down to the waste lexan. Then just score and snap that bit off. I do this on both sides normally about 3/5ths of the way in so that I have a single strip left in the center of the arch which you can cut out with ease or score and snap the last piece off. see here http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps520d1474.jpg I know people swear one way or the other but combining the two makes life easy. Honestly give it a go you will be surprised at how easy it is just take your time and it gives you one of the cleanest if not cleanest wheel arch. With just score and snap with out a steady hand you can have ugly curves that need to be sanded out and with the scissors alone you can scrape up the shell, leave hack marks but with both Ive found its perfect (See picks below) http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5f2e5fa3.jpg I also cut the front bumper off so that I can run my bullbar. The wheel arches in my opinion look much better this way, They are rather large (on the second body my pattern for them will be off the 1.9 ripsaws for a more scale approach) But the size is good and doesn't move too far up the body from the original line. Now my next step is to fix the wheel base by making some custom links. I do plan to upgrade the drive shafts at some point but I'll work out what lengths I need after the links are done. The only problem I see me having stretching out the back is the shock mount location will leave the axle lower then the front. My solution is the level 3 rc kit. Instead of using it to lift im using it to make mounts approximately 2-3 cm further towards the back of the truck which should be all I need to keep the right ride height with the shocks http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3062edac.jpg To do my custom length links all Ive done is got some HD rodends with a 4mm thread, 4mm all thread and some aluminum tubing. Cut the all thread to size attach the lengths then measure the tubing off the exposed all thread. Plus a mm on each side as the rod ends just sit inside the tubing on the rounded end. Now the parma body wheel arches are not flared and I plan on making some flared ones abit more like my navara in the 2nd picture of the thread. How as of yet im not 100% but im playing with a few ideas. The waste lexan/getting some styrene is one idea. Another is using some styrene/lexan and modeling putty and making some bolt on flares. Few ideas but we'll see when it gets to that stage. At this point I just want to get the chassis ready first, finish installing and wiring the motor/ecs in new locations and deal with the body stuff after. This is as far as I got so far. More to come. |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Wow that body has a really long wheel base. I love the color on the Evo it should look great on the Titan as well If you bend up the aluminum tubes on your custom links, as I did. You can pick up some stainless brake line for cheap I have not bent them yet and last Sunday I had a pretty good bash session on some jagged rocks Looking good. What chassis drift car do you run? I have an hpi with a BMW m3 body it is loads of fun I have not had it out in a while as we have snow on the ground now and it's about 9 degrees outside Look forward to the progress |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Its a TT-01 that I slowly upgraded to be drift spec. Still a lot of work to do on it as well. I start one thing and something else comes a long and falls to the back of the shelf. Yeah tell me about the wheel base its huge. Although if youve ever seen a titan/navara their wheel bases are longer then most utes similar as well (Makes for football field turning circles, not fun in car parks) the bodys more like 1/9th / 1/8th. I think its ment for nitro/monster trucks. That brake line is an interesting idea tho. Thanks for the suggestion, Might take that route yet. Im looking at maybe bending the links as well for little more clearence (with the longer wheel base the links are going to come into play more I am asuming) Again just brainstorming atm. Trial and error (or exp from others) will tell. |
That's the Parma body roght? Thinking about doing a build that will closely match my frontier as well |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Thus far you do have a nice build going and yes - the Parma Titan body is meant for a Tmaxx so she will be longer and wider than your normal SCX options |
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http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/...0-28163234.jpg It's just i was wondering if its the Titan body that I've seen. Other than that I can't wait to see how this build evolves! |
Re: Titan/Navara Build I drive a Frontier/Navara too. I wish they made a Fronty body. |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Done the electronics pics later. Stopped by bunnings picked up a 1m x50mmx2mm strip of aluminum. Some plastic and double sided heavy duty double sided tape. I was playing with the idea of doing my own chassis rails. See how it goes. |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Well I was a busy little bee today. Got some body work done since the electrics are sorted. I couldnt put the esc where I wanted to(in between the rear shock mounts) with the honcho body because the cage sits low below the flatbed. So i left the final fitment of the electronics location till I'd finished prepping the body. I also worked out I need to shorted my front links by 3cm and lengthen my rear links by 3.5cm. So the wheel base from 312/313 needs to be 317-ish. The body is not far off the stock wheel base at all its the mounting location that pushes the rear wheels way out. so I'll have a 12.48" wheel base. I played with the idea of moving the transmission back drilling some new holes or making a new skid plate with some of the aluminum i bought to just remount it. But i thought moving more weight towards the front of the car will probably help the crawling ability... im just worried about my departure angles on the tub. I also switched back to stock shocks. The ones I bought were ok they are just a little stiff, on the electronics test I was pogo sticking over rocks not crawling over them. I have some springs on order and im going to play with dual spring rates to see if I can make them viable but stocks for now. Feel free to give me any suggestions experience etc you might have on doing this type of thing. Also at 110mm they caused a bind once every spur turn and I knew that shrinking the front links by 3cm is going to greatly increase the drive-shaft angle so by going back to stock I ditch the problem all together. Also the body turned out ok, Im not happy with it but it will do for now (I have another shell I can go to town on anyway so not to worried.) I got a little impatient after cleaning the shell i applied the window masks and I greased up the inside again so theres a few splotches from oily sweaty fingers, also when cutting the front grill out (for the wire mesh) I got careless and put a few scratches on the front, not to worried considering after its first crawl they'll blend in like they've always been there :) Like I said the parma body is a tad thicker then the tamyia and axial shells so it was going to take a little more effort then I had because I was keen to get it painted up. Ohwell now I know how to tackle the next body. I did however mask off some headlight/tail lights as well. Going to have a crack at modifying some honcho light buckets to fit the front and see what I cna find for the rear. I am also looking into plastic welding for the fenders, and I am also getting a pencil torch, and some brass tubing :) the JK bar will do for now but I feel the need to make a ARB 3hoop with side/sliders connecting. Maybe some sports/roll bars for the tray as well. Cant wait just need more time to start playing with all this stuff. Next on the list is custom links on the weekend. Enough chitchat pic time http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psb3390522.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps66a1120e.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psfabe319b.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...psff952780.jpg http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/...ps207e7264.jpg |
Lookin good! Cant wait to see some more pictures! |
Re: Titan/Navara Build pretty sweet :) That's the Rampage bumber correct? If so, it looks like the perfect length! |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Yeah it's the JK rampage recovery bumper. Suits the body to a T |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Hit a snag, moving the front axle back will also move the servo into the crossmember between the shock mounts. CMS looks like the way to go plus i think i need one to meet regulations anyway. Only problem I see is the steering will be angled backwards as the cms will be to close to the front. might need to fab a server plate up with that aluminum. Knew it would come in handy. My other option is to fab up some mounts that move the body forward about 10-15mm or so. This way I only have to add a small amount to the links and it might solve my driveshaft angle grinding if I move the axel back. Its got me stumped which way to go at the moment. Any thoughts ? |
Re: Titan/Navara Build You gotta move the body forwards. Otherwise... it looks awesome "thumbsup" |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Bodies coming forward 20mm. Links are dropping 10mm~8mm front rear are gaining 15mm. Body is only a temp remount (just a plate with body posts foward 2cm from the exsisting mounts) until the links are done then I'll work on a better solution body mount wize. |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Love that you're attempting this. I drove a Nissan Frontier (US Navara) and miss it. I've been on the hunt for a Navarra model for quite sometime but sadly no one makes one. Keep up the good work. |
Re: Titan/Navara Build I bought some of those scale shocks that were on special from rc4wd. And I know why they were dirt cheap. Being an air shock with a spring that was way to stiff to crawl with I thought about gettign rid of them, but when I was out the other day buying my brass bender/pencil torch I found some springs that looked like they might work. I pulled them down shafts and all the way down so it was just shock body. Washed them (there was quite a bit of oxidized crud underneath the shaft piston) I then cut the slightest amount off the shock piston as it had no holes, then I re-assembled them with the new springs and the lightest HPI BAJA petrolium shock fluid 5w I had. I havent tested them yet but they felt great. I'll post some pics up for those later tonight. Fingers crossed they go alright cause I really like the internal spring scale shocks. Thanks, im going to give it my best shot. I havent done much fabrication for rc stuff yet but its all trial and error till you get the hang of it. I dont expect my first attempt to be amazing but im looking forward to seeing what I can do. I too searched forever to find a frontier/navara body. So devo'd when I discovered there were none. I contemplated a Lc80 series body (4wd landcruiser 80series waggon not the boxy old style) instead after that but thought I'd give the titan a shot. I have an idea for the fenders. I have some aluminum sheeting 0.5mm thick. I also picked up a black pot plant pot. Im going to cut the aluminum sheet in a wheel arch shape so I can be attatched under the wheel arch then cut a line into the sheeting where the plastic will slot in, curved to mimic the fender shape I require. from here Its working out if I build it up with putty or just scrap that idea and try and make some bolt-ons. Slow progress as I keep going from one part to another (ie shock rebuild took most of my time in the garage last night that I had free) so it will be slow going. But I will pop some pics up as I have a few waiting nothing major just different things ive tried. |
Sounds good! Cant wait to see some pics |
Re: Titan/Navara Build Been a while, got busy with work and 1:1 scale 4wding. I have some time coming over easter to do some more work on it. All I have to do now is the links (measured up ready to cut and make) and the finishing touches, If anyone knows where I can score some side mirrors that look close to navara/titan ones that would be cool. I have only found old truck style mirrors that wont mesh with the scale look. Also to keep true to scale, 1.55" beadlocked wheels with grabber all terrains are in the shopping cart. I've been doing some playing with brasing and the bar work (when i get some good pieces made) will really top this off. Going to add sliders first, then sports bar and then give a shot at making my own bullbar. Builds slowed down heaps but has not been left behind :) |
Re: Titan/Navara Build also need to lift the bullbar, thinking of just cutting some alumium sheet and making some holes to attach it, just wondering if 1.5mm would bend to easy. |
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