Honcho with vanquish dig

[Jason Gross]

Hello, I put a vanquish dig on the ol' honcho and I've got trouble. The rear suspension is all stock but my driveline binds. The increased length of the trans/dig assembly raised the operating angle of the driveline enough to foul it up. I looked around and I haven't seen anyone else mention this problem. I did see in the tips and tricks thread that stampede shafts fit, does anyone know if that style of joint will operate at higher angles than the stock axial shafts, or can the stocker be "clearanced" somehow? My LHS is over an hour away and I'd hate to spend hours on the road to get traxxas shafts and be right back where I started. My only other options seem to be clocking the axle up wth custom links or limiting the suspension travel, neither of which really apeals to me. Any help would be appriciated

[MaxxPain]

I dont know how you installed yours, but I flipped my transmission. Then cut the driveshaft to fit. My angle was fine and had no problems. I would make sure the length is to too long. I later installed a new 4 Link in the rear which helped my driveline angle but didnt change my drive shaft length.



Did the same on my SCX10



Hope that helps.

[Jason Gross]

Yeah, I flipped the trans and skid plate. When It was all back together the rear driveline was about 3/8 too long to fit when fully collapsed. I shortened the driveline by shortening the inner and outer splined sections untill I could bottom the suspension and have about 3/16" of slip left in the driveline before it bottomed out. If the truck is sitting at ride height it doesn't bind but if the rear suspension droops out more than say 1/8" or so the joints of the driveline bind and it'll torque the rear tire off the ground if you let it. It's just kinda weird, everything else is stock. Stock shocks, springs, plastic links, heck it's still got the rubber bumpers on the shock shafts. I just never heard of it on here before so I thought maybe I missed something everyone else knew about, especially the guys running shorter wheelbases.

[MaxxPain]

So were is it binding, maybe take a picture at ride height and compressed or even maybe a video. Cause it shouldn't bind. Would like to help, I just dont understand what its doing.

[Jason Gross]

Here are a couple pics at ride height and one showing the bottom, the silver line running around the necked down area behind the ball in the first pic is where the metal ring that is on the cup of the driveline is rubbing on it when the suspension droops. It mostly seems to be the upper joint at the dig binding.

[MaxxPain]

OK, I see what your saying. My trucks both had stock 3 links. So my upper links I'm assuming were a tad longer then the stock 4 link setup. My suggestion is run longer upper links. That will add some extra clearance. I ran 106mm uppers but that might not work for yours as I run a RPPHobby 4 Link

Also, try flipping the driveshaft like in my pic. Might help.

[Jason Gross]

Between my last post and this one I tried flipping the driveline and I put some longer links on top to bring the input for the rear axle up. I think the problem is partly caused by my output bushing in the dig, it seems to have an awfull lot of play so my output/upper driveline flops around a bunch. clocing the pumpkin helped some, but it will still sometimes catch and bind if it flops just right. I don't know what the heck to do but it's starting to irritate me. I've never had the truck off the bench since I put the dig on sunday, maybe it's time to pull it off and try something else. I'll admit that seeing a bushing on the output was kind of disconcerting, but this unit seems to work so well for everyone that I just greased the thing and put it together. Oh well. Thanks for the help!

[Rock Commando]

Seems the problem to me mate, is that your a real turd. Most people bring something to the sport. But not you, eh. You make the rest of us look bad. You should just quit amigo! Quit wasting our time. You would be better off working on a Happy Meal, Commrade. Best of luck...hope it works out.

[Jason Gross]

Excellent post Rock Commando, a true gem I'll continue to recall fondly as the years go by.

Anyhow, I put a traxxas shaft on it and it works fine now, no biding. As a plus the traxxas shafts looks SLIGHTLY more scale than the axial ones, time will tell if they hold up.

[MaxxPain]

Dont't give give Roco the time of day. He's just a troll.

Originally Posted by Jason Gross

Excellent post Rock Commando, a true gem I'll continue to recall fondly as the years go by.

[Rock Commando]

Glad I could help there Jason, Eh. You just needed a push like in Karate Kid 3, mate. To overcome your troubles. That's what these forums are for, ace. And the only dumb questions are being asked by you, champ. Most of the peoples here could wheel up the trail in reverse with the dig on. Seems to me the only crawling you do is for Mr. Goodbar. You should look up my video on Youtube, "How to suck less for Marry's." Good luck, and see you on the trail, Amigo.

[KJ10]

I have the same problem. Running R2J links with the top rears sucked in and the bottoms out to the point that my shocks almost bind. Running Gear Head's shock relocation kit (modified). I solved the problem by running a "limiting strap." It's the zip tie around the frame brace in the first pic below. The second shows how I modified the shock relocation brackets. I could run longer spacers on the bottom of the shock mounts and pull my pinion up higher but, the shocks would still bind and I'd have even less articulation. I've got it dialed in about right as is so, this works, for me. ymmv.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps7387193b.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/i...psdde59358.jpg

edit: really crappy cell phone pics but, if ya know what you're looking at....

[Jason Gross]

Gotcha. I thought about putting some limiters in the shock bodies but if faced with the choice of limiting suspension or having a dig I would have gone without the dig, but that's just me personally. We went crawling after work yesterday and it never bound with the traxxas shaft (#6851x) and the dig performed flawlessly. I'm gonna keep an eye on it because the traxxas shaft doesn't seem to be as heavily built as the stock axial piece but I don't think it will be a problem as I try not to beat on my junk too hard.

p.s. how far, if at all, does everyone back off on their servo throw when the 4x4 or dig function is engaged? I don't want to burn up the servo so I backed it off untill I saw the tinyest gap between the dogs in both positions. It never skipped on me crawling up rocks right at the tip over angle or pulling myself down with the fronts so I don't see a problem but the instructions don't mention anything about adjustments once it's on the truck.

[Rock Commando]

You know what would be a good hobby for you there, Jason, eh? Models. On second thought you would probably glue your hand to your face, champ. You w ould have less drive line binding issues leaning back in a Lazy Boy. Time to face the facts, your just not getting it. You should just quit. Your most likely having troubles because you don't turn your radio on at the trail, bro. Maybe it's a power problem. Those things take batteries, amigo. Find something easier, like kites, ace. Nope...you'll probably hang your self, cochise. Leave the crawling to the know how, dude. Do us all a favor and trade your rig for a bag of Skittles. Good luck, and keep on wheeling.

[cox308]

Has anyone else run into problems running the VP dig on there scx10?

I just ordered the dig and I'm conserned now after finding this thread.

I did order this to go with it. MIP DIG driveshaft

MIP Spline CVD™ DIG Kit, Axial AX10 (rear) (1) #9137

Hope it works!