Link lengths, longer shocks and pinion angles

[Cherokee0304]

Hello everyone this is my first post, although I've enjoyed rcc for years. Anyhow, I got my first scx10, a trail honcho, and I couldn't let 1 day pass without some mods. I bought 120mm shocks, a level 3 droop kit, 91mm dingo links and a proline cherokee body. The shocks arrived first so of course I went to install them. I knew going into it I would need to change out the links to suit my pinion angle. My problem is no matter how I mix and match them I can't get my front pinion angle right. Either it's too low and binds, or its too high and makes my steering angle funky. My question is, when my 91 mm links come in will I be able to use them as top links with the 98mm bottom links or is 120mm shocks too much length? All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks I advance.

[05Fronty4x]

The first set of front links I made I had the uppers 4mm shorter than the lowers which I found was a compromise between pinion angle and steering performance, slightly favoring pinion angle. That said, I think your 7mm offset should put you right around the ballpark that slightly favors steering. It's easy enough to space the uppers a mm or 2 as needed.

As for the shocks, I have never messed with something that long, but aside from any mechanical issues that long of a shock will lead to, it would lift the rig way too much for my taste in both looks and performance. I'm not sure what you are aiming for with such long shocks, ride height or travel?

[Salojac]

remove front upper links - clock axle to desired pinion/sterring linkage angle - measure link mount to mount - make links - adjust ends as needed.

I have been in your shoes, sometimes there is nothing on the shelf that works. But with shocks that long your going to have to stretch the wheel base to get things right. You could measure what you need then go buy premade links and ends

[Meatwad]

Another idea is to try some 1/8 scale turnbuckles as upper links. Makes adjusting pinion angle easy.

[KJ10]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

Another idea is to try some 1/8 scale turnbuckles as upper links. Makes adjusting pinion angle easy.

Got pics of this setup? Curious what you mean. I think I know but, I want to make sure.

[KJ10]

And what size is "1/8th scale"?

[Cherokee0304]

Thanks everyone for the responses! I was hoping to get away with the wraith shocks and a droop kit on the cherokee body but its lookin more like I need a wheel base longer than 11.8 to run the PL cherokee which is my ultimate goal. I'm gonna see about the 91mm dingo links up top and the 98mm on bottom along with softer springs. And the cherokee body comes tomorrow(woo!) so once it's cut and painted ill throw some picks up for anyone that's interested. If anyone else that has ran the cherokee body has some info on their link and suspension setup or suggestions, any and all help will be strongly appreciated.

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by KJ10

Got pics of this setup? Curious what you mean. I think I know but, I want to make sure.

Sorry no pics but I can get a couple tomorrow. Here are what the turnbuckles look like though...

Originally Posted by KJ10

And what size is "1/8th scale"?

1/8 scale is larger than 1/10 scale. Like 1/8 buggies and truggys.

[Cherokee0304]

Goods news everyone! I measured all the links that come with the rtr honcho and got my pinions sorted (for now) gonna just run the stock shocks til I get this body painted and mounted. I'm hoping I can run the 120mm shocks with the 7/8" droop and 98mm links on top with the 91mm on bottom but we shall see. Any suggestions on what to cut the lexan with?

[scorpiondave]

I just use scissors on lexan.

[05Fronty4x]

Originally Posted by Cherokee0304

Goods news everyone! I measured all the links that come with the rtr honcho and got my pinions sorted (for now) gonna just run the stock shocks til I get this body painted and mounted. I'm hoping I can run the 120mm shocks with the 7/8" droop and 98mm links on top with the 91mm on bottom but we shall see. Any suggestions on what to cut the lexan with?

On the front you will want the shorter links on top, but 7mm shorter may be a little too much so space the link as needed.

I mainly cut lexan with short curved hobby scissors, but a straight pair can come in handy too. Something like this: Du-Bro Body Reamer, Scissors (Curved and Straight) Set

[Perkolator]

welcome to RCC!

120mm is a pretty long shock. with the drop kit you'll be better situated, but most likely you won't be able to take advantage of all the up-travel before something hits (like steering hitting frame or similar) - thus you really only get the same travel of the stock shocks. only way to know is once you've got everything installed and then start tweaking the setup.

once you get your pinion angles all sorted out with the longer shocks, you will most likely need to address your steering since you'll have just changed the castor angle, and are now steering into the ground. clockable c-hubs or beef tubes will allow you to rotate the castor back to where you like it.

be sure to check the Sacramento Scaler GTG thread, in the regional forums, on occasion to see when people are going out to play trucks

[Cherokee0304]

Originally Posted by Perkolator

welcome to RCC!


be sure to check the Sacramento Scaler GTG thread, in the regional forums, on occasion to see when people are going out to play trucks

Thanks for the link and the warm welcome!

[Cherokee0304]

So for now I'm leaving the 120's on the workbench and am sticking with the level 3 droop kit as a lift kit and stock shocks making sure to have the top mounts inward as far as possible. It looks a little less scale on the honcho body but luckily I got my cherokee body along with the droop kit and am very pleased with the fit. I'm hoping to get some pictures soon. On a side note does anyone know how to safely remove the glue on the rtr ripsaws? I have some 8 hole beadlocks I'd much rather be using and like the ripsaws height compared to the 1.9 hb rovers that are currently on the 8-holes. Anyway, thanks again everyone!!

[Perkolator]

Oven method. Wrap in foil and put into a 350* oven, then turn off. After 20min or so take them out and try to get them off with some gloves on. Otherwise, acetone soak can work but will most likely eat your foams. I just did the oven trick on some 2.2 ripsaws that were glued VERY well by the PO. Got some slight tearing on 1-2 bead surfaces but they came off eventually. I'd assume on factory glued wheels it will be easier.

[redsawacs]

consider using the extra rod ends that came in the kit for additional tuning. Last night I changed my 3 link into a 4 link on both front and rear. i needed to make the lower 91mm rods longer so I changed the rod ends and got the 7mm difference I needed to get the pinion angle back to where it needed to be - plus or minus.

The top rods were the stock links that came in the kit shorter of the 2

[Norcalmx]

I basically did your exact idea. Made my own links and the top links I made the same as bottom links because the mounting points were diff so it clocked the axles where I wanted. I mounted my servo up in the frame otherwise it hits and the shocks are useless. However the drag link and tie rod were so far apart it never steered right. Got high steer knuckles etc but was still a odd angle and never worked correctly. Had a crazy amount of flex but steering was horrible. I since have gone to the stock shock but am going to go 100mm shock at some point

[Cherokee0304]

Sooo took the cherokee to dotons point on the granite bay side of Folsom lake (which is now $12!!) and was blown away with the difference 4 link front and a 7/8" lift made! Finally got my dingo links to get the pinion angle dialed in. Anyone have suggestions on how to remove spray paint from lexan?