Best "cheap" mod???

[rogue1series]

I'm still really new to this forum and I see a tonnnnn of people building awesomely cool rigs on nearly unlimited budget... I do not have anything close to this.. With that being said I want to begin modding my axial JK but I don't even know where to start!!


My questions, feel free to state all opinions

1: best first accessory mod?

2: best first performance mod?

3. Best first suspension Mod?

4. Best tire upgrades, and is it better to keep 1.9's or go to 2.2s?


Now, with these questions I would like to keep the budget under certainly $100, and hopefully under $50. thanks!


My rig so far:

[johnnyh66]

Start with the drive train.

1. Robinson Racing gears for the transmission.
2. lockers for the axles.
3. 32 pitch spur and pinion.
4. Aluminum CHubs
5. Aluminum Knuckles
6. Universals
7. Beef Tubes

[nersik]

0. Aluminum steering upgrade.

[Weapon]

seconded, get some steel into the trans as soon as possible. that and drive shafts (mips are nice) are the only trouble spots I have had on all of my axials. running stock I believe 48p? stock lockers and stock knuckles, running 2s on some goat combos and some brushed combos. I am not hard on my trucks though.

[05Fronty4x]

1. Winch
2. Metal steering links. Assuming you have the stock 27T motor and 20 tooth pinion, lower your pinion size several teeth.
3. All metal suspension links
4. The Trepadors are great tires. I'd run them for awhile and then upgrade to beadlock wheels and tire of your choice.

He has a budget...There's no reason a first time crawler, especially with a stock setup, needs to run out and get all metal gears, 32P setup, beef tubes, MIP shafts, aftermarket lockers etc...

Run the rig, and if you do happen to get a little rough with it and break something, then upgrade as you see fit.

[Debonair]

Originally Posted by nersik

0. Aluminum steering upgrade.

YUP! That is definitely needed right away. Then drive it, break it, then upgrade it.

Also pay attention to what if does not do well FOR YOU and focus on those areas. Upgrading parts that work good FOR YOU in stock form is a waste of money if you are on a budget in my opinion. I took my son out to a get-together a week ago and learned real quick from its performance an the expert advise of the other members there that we both need to move as much weight to the front our SCX's as possible. Using scrap aluminium and left over styrene this has cost us $0 so far. Adding weight to the wheels is next on our list and relatively inexpensive, i paid $10 for enough weights for my Dingo and his Jeep at Harbor Freight.

Mirroring the transmission to help with torque twist is free too. Look at Tips and Tricks Thread the for more ideas.

[rogue1series]

Originally Posted by 05Fronty4x

1. Winch
2. Metal steering links. Assuming you have the stock 27T motor and 20 tooth pinion, lower your pinion size several teeth.
3. All metal suspension links
4. The Trepadors are great tires.

With your #1 answer... I would need a 3 channel remote to run a winch wouldn't ?


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[05Fronty4x]

Originally Posted by rogue1series

With your #1 answer... I would need a 3 channel remote to run a winch wouldn't ?


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Or use a controller, I think some come with one?
It's not my number one upgrade suggestion, just #1 for accessory.

[johnnyh66]

I find it interesting that the guys that have been on here a few years say beef up the drive train and the new guys say beef up the links.

I wasn't expecting you to go out and buy the whole list at once... but over time.
Don't waste your money on buying links.
Get some stainless steel threaded rod and Traxxas Revo rod ends and make your own for much cheaper.

EDIT: Also, when it comes time for a winch... don't waste your money on buying a winch. Build a servo winch, you'll be much happier.

[Meatwad]

Agreed drivetrain, also agreed make your own links. If you're on a limited budget, learn to make your own stuff as much as possible. There a few ways to make links, my preferred method is the allthread+ss tubing+revo/jato/savage rod ends.

The ultimate goal is to keep it running and keep it rubber down, the latter is easier said than done.

[BodiBuilt]

If you have not already done so, relocate your battery towards the front and as low as possible... add some weight to your wheels... both of which are inexpensive mods that substantially improve COG

[05Fronty4x]

Originally Posted by johnnyh66

I find it interesting that the guys that have been on here a few years say beef up the drive train and the new guys say beef up the links.

I wasn't expecting you to go out and buy the whole list at once... but over time.
Don't waste your money on buying links.
Get some stainless steel threaded rod and Traxxas Revo rod ends and make your own for much cheaper.

EDIT: Also, when it comes time for a winch... don't waste your money on buying a winch. Build a servo winch, you'll be much happier.

So, my limited time on this forum discredits anything I have to say? I'm just representing a completely different, budget-minded perspective from the eyes of a mindful crawler, if that hasn't become apparent. I was only basing my advice on the budget, in the format of which his questions were asked...what more can I do?

Why spend the entire budget on 1 or 2 things based on durability which is a VERY relative issue? Not everyone runs there rig with the attitude "hey, I'm giving it half throttle and the tires aren't spinning, better give it hell!" Also, not everyone is out beating the crap out of their rigs in competitions but rather heading out for a relaxing trail run or doodling around a rock garden. What would be considered the most important upgrades for one person may not be for the next. My drive train is completely stock except for underdrive gears in the rear and yet my tranny gears, spur, outputs, driveshafts, diff gears show little to no signs of concernable wear after dozens of hours crawling. So for me, running out and spending $200 on my drive train/axles right off the bat wouldn't have been the greatest inventment. Of course, for some it would have been the best money spent, but a weekend crawler would have to go through quite a few stock parts to equal the cost of the proposed drive train upgrades.

I do agree though, the drivetrain is the most common place to break and wear stuff out, but it's how the rig is treated that will determine when or if it "needs" to be upgraded. Maybe he plans to run it pretty hard, in which case I will say save up and go through the drivetrain as well, but he should atleast give it a shot and see if his driving style is even prone to breaking stock parts.

Modding a servo to be a winch is a good idea, but DOES require a 3-channel radio, additional mounting, and he may not have a spare servo or desire to rip one open, especially when an actual winch is pretty affordable. It's a scale accessory and adds some dynamic to crawling. A modded servo winch without extra electronic circuitry also tends to drift (depends on the servo) which is yet more $.

And I was assuming self made stainless links.

[Weapon]

the funny thing is stock plastic links will save your drive train, by giving and bending when you bind. So in my opinion links should be one of the last things to replace. I mean your gonna break an outdrive, you just are. RR outdrives are cheap so are the one piece so why would you go out with stock ones and ruin your day of crawling.
Mind you its nice to get rid of the steering link right away.

I also agree make your own links I like to use the aluminum 106s and cut them down and rethread them for custom lengths. although next truck is getting stainless.
And ya I agree mirroring the trans is a really good one free and well worth it.

[o0wiz0o]

Agree with Bodi...moving the battery to the front dramatically improves its performance when climbing.

[05Fronty4x]

Originally Posted by Weapon

the funny thing is stock plastic links will save your drive train, by giving and bending when you bind. So in my opinion links should be one of the last things to replace. I mean your gonna break an outdrive, you just are. RR outdrives are cheap so are the one piece so why would you go out with stock ones and ruin your day of crawling.
Mind you its nice to get rid of the steering link right away.

I agree. I didn't make my links for strength, but rather to gain clearance, slide over rocks with less friction and to remove slop. Not every upgrade has to be based on durability. It all goes back to how the individual treats their rigs. If he plans to run in competitions against the clock where throttling through binds and sometimes bashing the rig are necessary then sure, durability upgrades are a must to avoid being side lined early on. There's absolutely no denying that.

The funny thing is that I agree, keeping in mind that not everyone has the need to completely redo their drivetrain to get through a day, or in my case 3 months of crawling.

[rogue1series]

The answers are great so far, I noticed a lot of them revolve around how i run the machine... Well, I don't beat it but I do put it through its paces quite well.lots of random obstacles, indoor and out, and due to where I live, a lot of water and mud :/ I'm not sure if this helps but I'm trying to narrowing down. One more thing I will touch on is the winch thing, I'm going To go with the scale winch because I'm trying to keep it as 1:1 as possible, I am planning on relocating the battery tonight, but where exactly should I mount it?

Also, what is the best way to gain articulation?


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[05Fronty4x]

Originally Posted by rogue1series

The answers are great so far, I noticed a lot of them revolve around how i run the machine... Well, I don't beat it but I do put it through its paces quite well.lots of random obstacles, indoor and out, and due to where I live, a lot of water and mud :/ I'm not sure if this helps but I'm trying to narrowing down. One more thing I will touch on is the winch thing, I'm going To go with the scale winch because I'm trying to keep it as 1:1 as possible, I am planning on relocating the battery tonight, but where exactly should I mount it?


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The easiest is to relocate the battery tray to the front using the supplied screws and spacers. This puts it up pretty high so many also make up homebrew solutions to put it sideways behind the front shock towers for more of a balanced rig and lower center of gravity.

What size packs are you running?

[rogue1series]

Ummmm... Picture to follow lol









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[Fowlboy]

Different door panels/frames

[05Fronty4x]

If you take off the battery tray you'll see 2 screws that go into the crossmember there, they are the same spacing as 2 of the ones on the electrical box, so it easily mounts back there. Then you can put the battery up front. The cool thing about running light packs like those 2s 2200mah is that having them on the back isn't all that bad. Add 2-4oz. of lead to each front tire and it would have a good weight distribution.