Hard Body?

[naossoan]

Hey guys,

I've got a stock SCX10 Dingo and I really am not impressed with this body. I just don't like it at all. The cage is cool and all but I would really rather go with a scale look.

I've got some RC4WD Mudslinger tires which I really like, mounted on some generica 1.9 size wheels...I think they're the wheels from the Hilux High-Lift which I bought separately, or some generic non-beadlock RC4WD wheels, I can't remember.

Anyway, I would really like to get a cool hard body set, but the only really good RC Crawling site I know is RC4WD.

I'd love to get a Tamiya Pajero hard body kit, but that's for the CC-01 if I remember correctly, and I don't think it's the right size for the SCX10? I have a Pajero in real life so that would be pretty cool. I could build it into the scale version of the truck I want (but can't afford to make) in real life! lol.

Aside from the Tamiya F350, Hilux and the small number of hard bodies on RC4WD (none of which I particularly like) are there any good hard body sets out there? Maybe steal a hard plastic shell from a cheap toy-quality RC truck? Has anyone done this? Thanks!

[Cumberlandfarm1]

What are you into? chevy? dodge? ford? jeep? ect? im running an intimidator ss chevy hardbody, and i just purchased a tamiya clodbuster body for my next build, obviously im a chevy guy but i might be able to point you in the right direction for hardbodies

[naossoan]

I've never been a fan of domestic vehicles. I much prefer imports like the Pajero as I mentioned, Hilux, Tacoma, Land Cruiser, Land Rover, FJCruiser, XTerra, Frontier.....stuff like that. I don't even know if a lot of those even exist in RC form though.

If I had to pick a domestic I do like the oldschool Bronco and I don't mind Jeeps but I would much prefer the former mentions.

I guess it doesn't HAVE to be hard body, but for some reason a hard body just really appeals to me. I feel like I'd have a lot better/easier control over painting it. Hand paint it how I want it etc. Plus it's a lot more rigid for attaching accessories to and stuff.

[kakachille]

rpphobby.com sells tamiya hard bodies aswell as others

[OGXXXOG]

the tamiya bronco body fits the dingo pretty well. you will have to do some adjustments but it works out pretty good

[naossoan]

Has anyone had any luck with using bodies from toy quality RC's like New Bright or other brands like that? Or actually modified an SCX10 for use with a Tamiya Pajero?

[kakachille]

theres alot of threads using newbright jeeps and landrovers

[naossoan]

Maybe I'll just find the Tamiya Pajero and see if it will work with the SCX10...The battery mounts in the front of the truck so I'm assuming the chassis can just be chopped or something to accommodate the body.

[tnspark82]

JV Shop Land Rover D90 Bodies with Metal Luggage Tray Set for SCX10 RC4WD | eBay

Here is you one that has some racks n stuff. Im pretty sure you could just find the rover body too.

[Treo]

A friend of mine decided to mod the Pajero to fit the SCX10 instead of vice versa. Lowrider5 - SCX10 - Pajero

[naossoan]

Hmm. That's cool and all but it just doesn't look right so I don't think I will be doing that. If I were to get the Pajero I would rather just find a way to modify the chassis because those shell kits are $100 on eBay :\ I can't afford to buy 2 only to destroy one of them.

[diesel kawboy]

If you live near a goodwill or other kind of thrift store they have great deals on hardbodies if you can find them.

[Riley94]

Hey guys just wanted to know of some good places to find scale cases any help

[BadRockNoCookie]

You can get a tamiya Toyota hilux body from basically any rc store on the net or your local hobby shop and you can often find Toyota FJ cruiser bodies for sale in this site's for sale section.

[naossoan]

Hey actually I just found this Land Rover LR3 hard body that I ripped off a Rastar brand RC Toy a few years ago in a box of RC stuff that I forgot about, so I think I will just use this! Unfortunately all the interior is gone but it would have been a huge hassle to try and get the interior to work anyway. One of the windows is busted out too, I guess I had a few tumbles!!

I just have to figure out how the hell I'm going to mount this thing...

As well as figure out how to paint it. What do you paint hard plastic with? Model paint?

[big daddy smokes]

As well as figure out how to paint it. What do you paint hard plastic with? Model paint?[/QUOTE]


You can get some rattle can stuff that's made for plastic but just about any type will work

[naossoan]

Well I was kind of thinking I'd rather paint it by hand like with a brush if it's possible to do that with glossy paint. That way I don't have to mask off a bunch of stuff, spray, mask off a bunch of stuff then spray, etc.

The other thing is that right now I have this thing in the front-mounted battery position. I'm going to be using standard size 2S lipos and 6 cell nimh's with this truck. I know it's better to have as much weight up front as possible to make the rig as capable as possible, but at the same time it's going to be a lot easier for me to get this body mounted if I move the battery to the back of the frame.


I wonder if I did that, if I throw a bunch of weight up front by means of stick-on lead weights if I could counter-weight the battery so the truck is still front heavy. But then the thing will weigh a damn tonne!

[naossoan]

Well I had to move some stuff around to mock up this shell and this is what I've got.




I removed the front and rear bumpers from the kit as they were interfering with the body.

I had the battery mounted lengthwise on the battery tray on top of the front servo area. I Searched the forums and it seems a lot of people prefer to mount the battery as I have it now as it provides more stability. Though the climbing ability will be hampered a bit. The battery is just velcro'd tight to one of the cross members just below the shock mounts.

I attached the battery tray to the rear of the truck lengthwise with no elevation to it at all and double-sided tape stickied the receiver box and ESC to it then ran the wires. Luckily all wires are long enough to reach all locations.

I am running a Novak Goat 2S brushless crawler system in this truck that I bought some time ago for a really old project of mine but never got around to using it.

EDIT: Oh I forgot to mention. This shell has built-in headlights and tail lights, but I haven't got around to using them. I snipped the wires from a small circuit board that came installing when this body was still on the toy kit and coiled them up and taped them to the inside of the shell for future use. I'm not sure what quality they are or how much resistance I am going to need to run them but if I do end up running them I will probably get a 9V battery hooked up with a small switch and some resistors and see how it goes.

As you can see the body wheelbase is pretty much BANG ON, which is pretty great. I think I want to replicate this:

[csb510]

^^ Very nice LR3 body.

Just wondering... I know the stock Dingo wheelbase is 11.5" but is it easy to shorten it by 1 inch to 10.5"?? Or do I need to cut the frame? Reason I am asking is because I sold my Tamiya CC-01 and have a leftover Nikko FJ Cruiser hardbody that I might use if I purchase the Dingo (which I am considering). Thanks.

[kakachille]

no cutting just make your own links and itll fit