Norton's take on a Wroncho (pic heavy)

[TNorton]

this is going to be a LONG build process, funds and parts come slowly.

ok so after selling my losi a year or so ago I havnt done much with crawling, until now that is. I started collecting parts for a wroncho build, all stock plastic parts for now, I just cant see paying so much for VP stuff although some of it may actually be worth the money I just don't see it atm.

I was going to wait till my projects was further along but I hit a snag and thought maybe someone else might be able to help. so without further ado on with the build pics.

started with wraith axles and the 43/13 gears


got a wraith skid plate, and modified it to fit nicely in the scx10 frame rails



the attached it to the scx frame rails, that I had straightened (kinda)


next because the wraith skid is so much wider than the scx skid I couldn't use the crossmembers from the scx10 so I started building my own from ABS plastic that is solvent welded together (I read somewhere that abs is one of the strongest plastics, idk if that's true or not but I cant solvent bond the sheet of delrin I have, so abs will do)


the front one isn't going to get the cross inside, I just don't think its needed, but maybe later it will be.

I attached the shock towers, and this is where my problem starts
I grabbed a set of traxxas shocks just to try mocking up the axle iv seen others use them so they should be fine. but the axle just looks like its too low and too close to the skid for any sort of "decent" driveshaft angles. but you be the judge, iv stared at it for 3 hrs now and cant figure out whats wrong (maybe nothing and its just something ill have to work around idk)



I also tested a set of losi links I have sitting around they are prolly to long but with them on it pushed the axles for far forward that the front shock and the towers' front rail were parallel so it pushed it like an inch or more forward. I can post a pic of that if needed but I don't think ill be using them cause id prefer bent ones.

any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks.

[Firebird400]

Looking forward to seeing this done. Have fun with it man

[Solid94]

Looking forward as well! It's a common conflict many of us have. We love both the scx10 an the wraith so combine them

[kakachille]

looks good so far

[Demodude]

I'm starting my wroncho soon, I'll be keeping my eye on your build.

Did you have to use the wraith skid or is it just personal preference. Can you use the stock scx10'skid? Thanks

[TNorton]

no, you can totally use the scx skid.... its was just that almost every, if not all the threads I read on here used the scx skid. if memory servers me correct only one person used the wraith skid. so I had to use it, lol. that and I like the wider look of the chassis with the skid, idk the scx one just makes it look really narrow. just my opinion though.

thanks for all the interest so far guys

in case ne ones wondering the wraith skid (w/o the little ledges on the sides) measures in at 100mm wide. and my x-members measure in at 90mm that was done to clear the shocks from hitting the chassis, its a tight fit down to the axles using the wraith skid.

also done some work on custom links (rear). the fronts will end up being much shorter than the rears unless I want to go with a 14 or 15" WB that is... but I don't think that should be an issue so im gana go for it. the rears are 135mm eye to eye (not measuring the total link just straight from eye to eye) the pic with the plastic links are just to show what im starting with. they are losi night crawler links, as stated before.





now to make an exact mirrored copy and then get tubing to go over them hmm maybe ill be remaking them with the tube on, shoulda thought of that first

also sry bout the giant pics.... apparently photobucket is slow at updating size changes. they will auto correct eventually I see my 1st set of pics has.

[Jus]

The front axle does look *really* close to the skid... Only one way to work it out.. Bolt up a tranny and put a drive shaft on there.

[TNorton]

lol would love to unfortunately due to lack of funds I have neither a tranny or shafts, yet.

question for ppl that make their own links ; how do u get multiple links to be exactly the same I made a 2nd upper link and its so NOT the same lol. I think maybe I have to make some sort of jig (kinda like I had for the losi, if anybody has seen my thread over there, it was some time ago tho) but im not sure I wana start making jigs for links im not 100% on their design.

[TNorton]

sorry for double post but iv got a question.

I plan on using rc4wd rod ends (M3 Plastic Bent Rod Ends w/ Axial Width Balls (20x)) these to be exact. now they say they are 6mm, which is about .234" id like to drill and tap them out to use an 8-32. mostly cause iv already got a boat load of rod in that size. drill chart says I need a #29 drill for 8-32 which is about .136.

now here is my question .234 - .136 gives me .098 , which would give me about .049 of material left all the way around. is that enough left to still be strong enough that I wont break them? or should I use 6-32? which is .106. doing the same math .234 - .106 give .128, which gives me .064 left which is just under 1/16" all the way around. I mean the difference is only .015

I just need to know that it'll be strong enough before I go and destroy them.

[1beatjeep]

If this helps.I used a .049 and tap it to a 4mm and never had a problem with it.

[TNorton]

ok so I made a decision about what to do about the front shock tower/shock angle relationship thing...



I cut the chassis bought some shelf brackets that fit perfect around the rails, attempted brazing them, but for whatever reason failed. so tomorrow im going to take them to work and weld them together. over all extending the chassis 1". that's all one inch is more than enough to push the front tower far enough forward to straighten the shock out. when im done ill end up with a 14" WB, which is damn close to stock wraith WB anyways so not worried about it.

[TNorton]

and here it is, all welded up and almost mounted. one rail I got a little carless with the welder and now have to figure out how to remove some weld globs without a dermal, as I burnt my old one up, I might end up doing it with my file but ill be there FOREVER lol.

but as you can see Its pretty much the exact same thing as stock except its one inch longer. will push my front shock hoop far enough forward that I can get a decent distance between my skid and front axle with out having my front shock tilted at a nasty angle.

[TNorton]

ok so its been a while since I updated, and mostly b/c of funds. S*** happens. on to the build

(don't have a pic of it but I got/built/installed a scx10 tranny mirrored)

got links made







had a buddy of mine give me this beauty, lol.

it didn't take me long to tear it apart and decide what parts/sections I was keeping. I don't think he understood how much I was going to cut into it. and how much I would throw away.

I hate extended cabs so the first thing I did was to remove it. I also filled in the sunroof and cowl


I did happen to get a awesome set of RC4WD Rok Lox 2.2 tires. (no rims yet, so please excuse the really old set of traxxas stampede rims they are just for mock up purposes as I couldn't wait to see them on the truck... these things are monstrous. I love it.


and just a teaser pic of the body sitting somewhere close to where its finally place will be. I plan on doing it honcho style, going roll cage bed.


still not quite sure about bumpers, and I have to figure out what im doing about steering, not sure if I want to go CMS or axle mount but ill figure that all out soon enough. that and im not sure about rim offset ATM b/c of the traxxas rims my fronts are about 3/8 wider than the rears, I don't know if I want to go wide all around or narrow it up a bit or even pull a trophy truck stance and keep it wide in the front and narrow in the rear.

decisions decisions, lol. I hope you all like it so far, im absolutely in love with it.

[HDMM]

Nice work, looks like your off to a good start!

[TNorton]

so, I pulled the trigger on some rims. the order hasn't been processed yet but hell I just finished ordering them lol...

SLW V1	COLOR : RAW WIDTH : .700	$32.00	2	Yes	$64.00
SLW BEADLOCK RINGS	COLOR : RAW-SILVER	$17.99	1	Yes	$17.99
VANQUISH SLW WHEEL HUBS	WIDTH : 475	$14.99	1	Yes	$14.99

I did start this thread saying I wasn't going to spend money on VP stuff, but hell these are awesome looking and I couldn't find any other wheels that used adjustable hubs that I liked, and were cheaper. so VP it is. I cant say im upset about the decision they look b-e-a-utiful.

edit : just checked an my order should be here Monday. YAY!

[TNorton]

ok well, my VP rims showed up early. which made me extremely happy. until I started building them. due to me not knowing EXACTLY how many of each piece I would need and the site not saying that I would need to order 2 of said parts to build a complete set. I am now sitting with 2 wheels complete and on the truck, and 2 rims still in package because I didn't order enough rings or hubs. I really wish id have realized I needed to order 2 sets or rings and 2 sets of hubs, I should have known, but I didn't think I guess. and like I said neither the hubs or the rings have an actually description on their site at least a quantity would be nice, then at least someone like me would know that they only come with enough to do two wheels. although a little thought on my part and I probably would have figured it out myself.

VP build quality is amazing, both wheels that I have finished went together perfect on the 1st try.

im by no means upset about this, just a minor delay is all. I defiantly will be buying more VP products in the future. as soon as my bank account & wife allow.

[TNorton]

ok so its been a while since iv updated this, mostly cause of funds. just didn't have them to pour into my hobby, but I recently came into a little so I got back to work. but enough blabbing, I know u wana see this pics so here they are.

I repositioned my rear 4-links to give me better articulation and clearance.


built my own battery tray repurposing the original and brazing some alum tabs to it for mounting.


unfortunately that made it so I had to keep my 4links mounted the way the were upfront.


but that causes some clearance issues with my driveshaft, not to mention that on full compression they are buried ((google says that's the correct spelling, tho I seem to pronounce it different)) into my battery tray. im running e-maxx driveshafts the big beffy ones.

I may have to break down and go with a three link and panhard bar, but I really DONT want to. ill just have to redesign the front links, I think if I took the bend outa the top ones it would alleviate that problem.

build my own CMS mount. placing the servo as far away from the wheel, this should give me the longest steering link I can get in there, which should help with the bump steer seeing im not running a panhard and 3link setup...

please before a dozen people start telling me that I should just run a 3 link. I really don't like the way they look, that and the fact that with a panhard the wheels lift up and to the side just seems stupid, I know that's how its supposed to work but I don't like it, so im going to try my damnedest to stay away from that.

got the SUPERSHAFTY extended outputs 6mm. freaking awesome parts. adds a little rotational mass, but I can live with that seeing it makes it damn near indestructible. plus iv got the biggest spur I can fit without any rubbing issues


got all 4 wheels finally done and mounted so here is some wheel porn. they look so good that I almost don't want to take them out and beat the snot out of them.


and finally a shot of it as a rolling chassis. she has ALOT of ground clearance, I might even be able to drop it a little, but then id have to raise up my body, and as she sits now the body rests on the frame rails.


it did come out a bit larger that I was expecting but the body iv got is a bit larger than the typical 10th scale too, so its ok, overall I think it pulls off a decent scale look, but I wont know for sure till I have it painted and mounted in its final resting spot, so far iv only had it mocked up to see what she would look like, I even posted a pic of that a while back. its come some way since but you'll see that when she is all done and looking pretty.

and I did just buy a roll of 1/4" brake line, to do up a cage/honcho esk bed/rear thingy. (im sure there is actually a name for it, and if u know please feel free to tell me what it is) but that will have to wait till I get the body fully mounted so I can tell where everything is going to mount up and sit.

random measurements :

WB : 13.5"
track width : F- 11 7/8" R- 11 3/4"
ground clearance : Chassis- 3 3/4" axle- 1 7/8"

(that's all that I can think to measure, that someone might want to know, if there is one iv left out and you want to know just tell me id be happy to take measurements)

at the moment the only thing holding this back form being running is this

I hate electrical work, no matter the size, weather its a 1:1 car or a rc, so I just have to get the motivation to do it, and she'll be a running chassis without a finished body lol.

at the moment iv got an integy 65turn motor in it (it was super cheap I couldn't pass it up) ill have to wait to run it to see if its going to be too slow or not, I didn't have a clue what size I should start with but this was the biggest one that my LHS had on hand so I bought it, I might end up dropping to a 45 maybe even a 35 depending on wheel speed. I do know that this thing shouldn't have any torque issues.

future plans:
I saw this cool looking winch, at the LHS the other day. it is made by integy (which is know is a no go right there) but it would only be there for show, I don't intend on ever using one. so if I got it id probably cut the electronics out and just mount it as an accessory. speaking of accessories, once I get the cage bed thingy done I do plan on adding things like a jack, cooler, maybe some road cones, a pet dog if I can find one I like, some rope (cause bungee cords are dangerous and I would NEVER own one) , a driver maybe a passenger, a rifle..... that's all I can think of at the moment, im sure there is more but I just cant think of any.

I also plan to buy some beef tubes if I can manage to find some again, I know I saw some for the wraith axles someplace I just have to find it.

k well that's all for now. hopefully my next post wont be such a long wait.

also as im searching around iv noticed that there is another person up here with "Norton" as their name, seeing we are not the same person if I could figure out how to change the title of this thread I would so as to make sure their isn't any confusion. if anyone knows how I might change it please let me know.

[TNorton]

moving on to the body. the body work is a little rough, but for my 1st time using styrene I think it turned out great. I do notice that I can see the sanding marks in some places. so I should of got higher grits and sanded it out better but its going to take a beating and get all sorts of rock rash, so im not worried.


I had to cut a hole for the rear driveshaft to slip threw.

full interior, painted and detailed (I sucked at that as you may see)


had to modify the interior a bit tho, to fit my battery. don't mind the white delrin (im experimenting with mounting possibilities)


and now im starting to braze a cage/bed together for the rear



the bed will end up getting some side panels I think. but who knows at the moment. iv got a 20ft roll of brake line so I can change my mind a lot before I run out and I probably will.

[ninja turtle]

Awesome build man, keep up the good work. The bed is called a "tube bed" and heres a link to the wraith beef tubes. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axles...s-finally.html

[TNorton]

thanks, I try. thanks for the link as well.