what weak parts are there?
 

hey guys, I was going to scratch build a scx10 part by part because I don't have the money to buy one straight up :roll:, and I was wondering what I should and shouldn't buy. is there any weak parts in the stock axles or transmission?
cheers, Tyler

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

Get some HD transmission outputs, chubs, knuckles, rear axle lock outs and a nice aluminum servo horn. You'll most likely break other parts eventually but these are the things I have done to mine ( along with driveshafts and some other parts.) I'm pretty easy on my rigs as far as abuse though.

Trans gears are what went in mine first. Then the above mentioned chubs and knuckles and driveshafts. Aluminum steering and suspension links are a must have.

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

Don't cheap out on the servo horn. Get the axial clamp on. I just stripped the hell out of a cheapo on my second trip!

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

agreed.
Start with the trans and work your way out.
In order of must have to nice to have.
Robinson Racing trans one piece output and idler gears
32 pitch pinion and spur
Servo horn and metal steering links (can be made cheap from 8:32 threaded rod and Traxxas Revo rod ends)
MIP drive shafts
Knuckles
CHubs
Lockers
Universals
Metal links (make your own)
Overdrive and underdrive gears
Shock towers
Rear lockouts

What electronics are you going with?

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

wow, thanks for all the quick replys this is gunna be $$$ :ror:
for electrics I might go 35t motor ,mg995 servo to start with and unsure of esc."thumbsup"

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

See I don't think you need any of that. The only thing that broke for me on a stock truck was the front 3-link set-up ball joint which wore and kept popping out. I made my own links and job done. I had a knuckle fail but that is my fault really as I was using a much stronger servo than stock. My truck has done miles of trailing and climbing on 2s and even the stock 27t motor is still chugging along.

Now if you use 3s then there is a lot more stress on the vehicle. But IMO 3s make the driving a lot less realistic looking... :)

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

I will only be using 2s 'cause I only need to go slow, plus 2s is cheaper.
also I heard once you get a post count of 30 you can see the classifieds
is this true?

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

30 posts and active for 30 days to view classifieds unless you purchase a star

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

It all depends on how much power you're going to be putting through it.
In the first week that I owned my Honcho RTR I replaced the plastic suspension links with DIY metal ones to improve ability and I reduced the speed/increased the torque by replacing the stock 27T brushed motor with an Axial 55T brushed motor.
A year later I haven't broken anything on it yet.

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

The issues I had to start with were steering: the servo horn and steering links. Those are inexpensive and very worthwhile upgrades. Read some threads here, esp the Tips and Tricks, and you'll find interesting ways to beef up some components (e.g. run a bolt into the driveshaft slipjoint to prevent it from twisting).

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

I've never had anything in the transmission or axles break, but I have broken a C-hub before. Definitely replace those with some aluminum pieces.

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

I don't think I would recommend building a rig part by part. Save your money and get a kit or rtr and start from there.

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

Have you built something before? If not, go with either SCX10 kit (Dingo or Wrangler)

Upgrade that kit as you go as it's a great starting point since it's only a roller.

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

I know you said your buying/building over time, but if you can... I recommend buying used.
Often, you can get an upgraded rig (or axles & transmissions) for less than new.

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

Thanks for all the information, I've built a venom creeper kit and I know how everything works and that ,But yer it might be cheaper to buy a used roller or even a new roller.

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

i did that,part by part,but i had the transmision and axles from an AX10,and my next project will be a wraith,only made from parts,as i want to put some good stuf in"thumbsup"

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

I'm doing a build now same way and it ain't the cheapest that's for sure.

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

I agree with the dudes above. DIY links all the way around. Take your time, not your bank account!

Re: what weak parts are there?
 

the steering knuckles are weak sauce IMO...
followed by the plastic chubs and lockouts

I bought a RTR Honcho...
hadn't even ran into anything... hardly 10 hrs run time...
and the driver's side steering arm on the knuckle snapped in two,
at the unused inner hole. Wuz just cruising along.

Also the screws securing the chub(s) and Lockout(s)
keep backing out of the axle's plastic threads.
Changing to alloy chubs and lockouts will not correct this issue.
Maybe a little CA or locktite could help minimize this !? :dunno:

A better solution/fix would be to install the steel inner axle tubes...
commonly referred to as "beef tubes"
Installing these will allow the chub and lockout screws to thread into the metal beef tube's tapped holes...
the "beef tubes" also strengthen the entire axle housing and add a little weight to the axle.

^ IMO a must do modification...
if spending the $ on alloy knuckles, chubs and lockouts.

--------------------------

I utilize the front alloy steering rod/link kit
and the Axial alloy clamp style servo.

If the overly flexible steering link is left in place...
it acts as a servo saver and protects the servo.

However.... it flexes way too much even for the stock powered servo.
I use no servo saver any longer.

Just remember not to hammer into stationary rocks and walls ;-)

Edit: grrr ! :x
repaired my broken knuckle yesterday...
went out in my yard and ran my rock pile this evening...
and now the driver's side chub broke at the upper "C"
the part that the steering knuckle mounts to.
Wasn't any real load on that when it failed.
Hmmm... guess I'll be needing extras in the spare box :roll:

that ^ or pony up to my own advice.