newbee king 100 shock filling
 

was wondering about the correct way to fill these shocks.
when i fill to the top, move the piston up and down till no bubbles, then cap them with the piston all the way down they feel solid and due not move up and down?
when i move the piston all the way up and then cap them they due move up and down but feel like there is not enough dampning.? filled with team associated 100% silicone 35wt "shock oil"
thanks in advance for any help

Try putting the shaft only half way up

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

1)so move the shaft to half way position
and top off the fluid level as well?
ill give it a try to night
thanks

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

You are assembling oil shock. There should not be difference whether it is up, down or half way.

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

yes assembling an oil filled shock
it has a threaded body and is "coil over" type
its made by rc4wd and has the king brand label on it with fake piggyback fluid resivoir
i have done them on other brands and had no problems,
but with this one it just seemed like when i fill it up to the top with fuid and cycle the the piston up and done ,then back down and install the cap that it would not move upagain , almost as if there were no holes in the piston, seemed strange
so when i put less fluid and capped it with the piston up, it cycled up and down but seemed like it was areated and not very consitant while cycling up and down

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

Actually this in incorrect. Depending on where the piston is in the shock body determines your rebound of the shock. This is a tuning option that is used a lot for racing. I know we are racing here but it still does make a difference even for scaling.

As to the OP. Do the shocks have bladders or is it sealed by an o-ring in the shock cap? If they don't have a bladder then you will have to bleed them like they are an emulsion style shock, which means you'll have to crack the cap and slowly push the piston up and let the excess fluid bleed out.

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

thanks for the in put guys

i see no bladder internally just the aluminum shock body with an o ring seal at the cap

so to recap, fill with oil, slowly cycle piston up and down to remove air , then slowly push piston up while cap is "craked" loose to beed out any "over fill", and then snug down cap when in full up position.

sweet i will give it a try after work and reply afterwards thanks again for the info

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

do not go all the way up with the cap lose. just till the fluid comes out is how i do mine

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

These are a little tricky to bleed correctly. Fill to about a 1/4" from top, then remove all bubbles before capping. Then add cap about halfway threaded, cycle piston slowly, oil should ooze out of threads, keep adding a 1/2 turn on cap while cycling till tight.

When its good, it shouldn't feel like there's a dead spot anywhere through the shaft cycle, ie air.

Watch that when compressed, it doesn't push shaft out on its own, and when extended, pull shaft in, both show it has internal pressure and needs some more work.

Make sure to loktite the rod end onto shaft, and a little green slime on the o rings goes a long way as well.

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

alright after doing it a couple of ways it looks like erin has nailed the problems of this being Tricky to due correctly
maybe because the cap threads in the body instead of capping it around the body? so the more it is skrewed in the more pressure it puts on the fluid and then limits compresion

"Watch that when compressed, it doesn't push shaft out on its own, and when extended, pull shaft in, both show it has internal pressure and needs some more work."

at this point it stops at full compression about 3/16 from bottoming out and when extended it pulls back in.
soooo it looks like i will be doing it aagin whith the new info

"Then add cap about halfway threaded, cycle piston slowly, oil should ooze out of threads, keep adding a 1/2 turn on cap while cycling till tight."

thanks for all the in put from every one

i hope the shocks will perform as good as they look haha
any how ill let you all know how it goes whith the new procedure

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

If the shock cap threads into the body rather then on the outside of the body a good rule of thumb is to only fill the shock up to the bottom of the threads and not all the way to the top of the shock body.

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

thanks mav
ill be doing the shocks again hear shortly to get them dialed in with all the new info

Erin
"Make sure to loktite the rod end onto shaft" so should i pull off the lower rod end while im doing all this or is it locked tight at the fatory?
sorry if its a stupid question, just want to clerify

pratice makes perfect

thanks for all the support from you all

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

Glad to help, these are a bit tricky.

The other thing is they tend to like heavier oil then normal. I think Im running 1k diff fluid in mine, and I know others mix diff fluid and shock oil to get the rate they want.

Id like to get some machined delrin pistons with smaller holes so I can tune them better to my liking.

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

Pm sent!

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

ok well getting better at this for sure

with the 35wt oil does seem a little light at this point, almost like its still got air trapped,
ran it for a bit but seems a little bouncy at this point, I will try with some thicker oil

would you suggest going up to 60wt, ? not too sure what thick and thin are yet

ill give that a try and go from there
thanks again

Re: newbee king 100 shock filling
 

When I ran it at KOH, I think I went with 100, but still had some bounce, that's when I switched to diff oil.

I want new pistons because the diff oil will be much more temp sensitive over the winter.

If you are mostly slow crawling, then a lighter weight will suit you better then to heavy an oil. Try 60-70, and see what you think. You can also run thinner up front, heavier in the rear.