Just ordered my first kit and have a couple????

[realsickclown]

OK after owning my wraith for a few months now, I decided my skill level is up to par and bought a scx10 Jeep Wrangler kit (red boxed) not the silver, anyways I know the shell is clear to start. OK How big of a steering servo does this size of truck need? I am also thinking of putting a holmes Hobbies torquemaster 27T and I have extra paired with the stock electronics from my Poison Spyder to get up and going. I would like to know if this would be a fine starting set up?
How heavy of shock oil? Also any tips or things that are not so clear in the directions that would cool to hear. thanks

[mark32]

i personally run a savox 1231sg but plan on going to wraith axles and 2.2 if u r going to run 1.9's anything over 200oz will work just fine just remember to run a bec

[realsickclown]

Oh yea I will have a bec on board. Is there any plastic parts that should become alloy during the build to save headaches later? I only ask because my wraith needed a lot of improvements to be dependable today. does the scx10 have the same weak points as the wraith?

[BigSki]

See if the upper links are plastic or aluminum. I had a Dingo kit about 6 months ago, it came with aluminum lowers but plastic uppers. I'd also order enough of the metal rod end balls so you don't have to use the plastic ones in the kit, they didn't last very long for me. RPP sells the Axial version, the Traxxas ones are a bit shorter in comparison.

The kit comes with a bottle of 30wt shock oil, start there and tune the springs first, then fuss w/ the shock oil.

[realsickclown]

being a lighter rig,does the drive line hold up a little better? the manual says metal lowers and plastic uppers on the links. I would rather try to have all my parts and the rig all show up with in the same week. how do glued tires hold up on the rocks, I would imagine well if glued proper.

[realsickclown]

well very good, after reading a lot and using the search option, and reading some more and minimal replies here this is going to be a breeze. My only concern is that I don't try and rush things when it get close to done. thinking about slapping some 2.2 flat irons on beadlocks on it.

[6sharky9]

Originally Posted by realsickclown

being a lighter rig,does the drive line hold up a little better? the manual says metal lowers and plastic uppers on the links. I would rather try to have all my parts and the rig all show up with in the same week. how do glued tires hold up on the rocks, I would imagine well if glued proper.

If you go with a big amp ESC and run a 3s battery or better you will have driveline issues especially if you run big tires..Ive had no breakage issues running 1.9 wheels/tires with a RTR Honcho ESC and a 2s battery with a much more powerful 27t motor...Not making your truck weight 10lbs also helps with durability of the stock drive line.

I recommend even a low cost beadlock wheel over standard wheels..its a whole lot cheaper to just have to buy tires and not a new set of wheels everytime; or have to boil your wheels/tires to get the tires off you glued on...Its the foams in the tire..the tread and compound that determine performance ..Its not really a beadlock or non beadlock comparison issue.

You can run 2.2 tires but you may lose some travel because the fronts will hit the fender up front under full upward travel...so now you have to buy longer shocks or a kit to raise the height of your truck..now you have a higher center of gravity making your truck tip over easier..Driveshaft angle issues become a problem which means you have to make custom links to change your pinion angles.. it goes on and on...The rubicon Maxxis trepador tires are 1.9 and are about as tall as you will want to go and not have any issues as mentioned.

Some upgrades are ok to have and it not effect your performance for the worse or cause issues but others just cause headaches without spending a lot more money to fix the problems.
One wrong move creates a money pit.

As far as links...use the aluminum links it comes with..plastic uppers aren't so bad as long as you have the aluminum lowers..that alone stops the axle assembley from moving around so much from all the flex..If you have to have aluminum uppers then its easy enough to make them or just buy them.


Build smart and youll enjoy your truck without major issues.

[Postclanker]

Originally Posted by realsickclown

well very good, after reading a lot and using the search option, and reading some more and minimal replies here this is going to be a breeze. My only concern is that I don't try and rush things when it get close to done. thinking about slapping some 2.2 flat irons on beadlocks on it.

Reading in here is your best input....glad you did that on your own

I would make your own links if you can, simple enough. And a beadlock wheel is always nicer than glueing them on.

Good luck on your build

[racin707]

Id do metal upper links, the kit I built they seemed way to flimsy compared to my last kit flexed even while sitting in the bench,I run chassis mounted high torque servos on everything id rather be over than under and for me they last much longer....

[toyota2]

When I built mine up I also ordered the Robinson Racing steel gears for the transmission at the same time. I have since replaced the stock ring and pinion in the axles with Axial HD's. I would imagine that the drive shafts are next but so far they are holding up. I also got a set of axial 8 hole beadlocks so I did not have to glue the tires. As for the rest I am just going to upgrade what breaks.

[realsickclown]

Thanks guys, I think I'm over thinking this whole thing. It's not rocket science here.

[seth556]

I'd grab an aluminum servo horn, rod ends, and a full 4 link setup (however you want to do it).

[therealrsr]

Second the horn, 4 linking both ends with upgraded links. Improves driveshaft clearance noticeably and the three popped out on me all the time wound up putting a washer on to hold it but that restricted movement when off the ball agains the washer.

[realsickclown]

Originally Posted by therealrsr

Second the horn, 4 linking both ends with upgraded links. Improves driveshaft clearance noticeably and the three popped out on me all the time wound up putting a washer on to hold it but that restricted movement when off the ball agains the washer.

This is the stuff I'm wanting to know, I am switching over from a wraith and it is a little hopped up and a blast to drive. After watching lots of scx10's I just had to get one. Now I am wanting to read up on the best way to get the most out of Wrangler unlimited kit with out going over board at first eliminate the weakest spots and go from there.

[realsickclown]

ok I read up on the 4link set up am I going to need a servo mount? If I am understanding it correctly it moves the servo to make room for the 4 link truss or is everything in the parts bag? besides the aluminum upper links.

[6sharky9]

We all have our preferences to what we want and what we like..I took a conservative yet very effective approach on my honcho mods.

Your welcome to check out my thread and see if there is anything there you would like to use.

I would say start with this list of much needed mods:

1.) a 2s lipo battery should be the first choice for a power supply
2.) Replacing the stock steering links with aftermarket aluminum links or axial links ( or you can make links fairly easy)
3.) replace at minimum the lower suspension links with aftermarket/axial or home made links
4.) If your keeping the stock esc and motor try a 17 tooth motor pinion gear.
5,) Mount your battery on the front like the honcho is.

In my opinion these changes make a very big difference in stock performance and it wont break the bank.

Congrats on your new Rubicon.

[realsickclown]

I have the kit coming, and will be running 3s, with Holmes hobbies torquemasater 27T sport.I am not decided on the esc yet

[Johnnysplits]

I just got my kit and in the same boat as you. I have a small pile of aftermarket stuff sitting and waiting on more. I'll be keeping an eye on your build!

[6sharky9]

Nothing wrong with running a 3s but be prepared to replace parts...The drivetrain seems to handle a 2s very reliably but youll read a lot of builds on here saying this broke and that broke due to the added power of a 3s or stronger..If you have the funds to change most everything in the drivetrain to aluminum or steel then go for it.

I like your motor choice though...Why not get the Holmes ESC as well?

If you want a reliable truck and it not become a money pit then do yourself a favor and go with a 2s lipo...Its more than enough power to do what the truck is capable of.

You said kit..so you ordered the kit version or the RTR version????

[Johnnysplits]

He's got the kit